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Help, Running lights and brake lights back feeding power, bad taillight ecu ?

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Old 03-07-24, 09:35 PM
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Purenick97
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Default Help, Running lights and brake lights back feeding power, bad taillight ecu ?

1992 sc300 here, boosted, 2jzgte ecu mod and manual swapped.

today while out driving, I noticed whenever I pressed the brake my cluster and radio would dim/flicker as if I turned the headlights on. Then later on, I turned my headlights on and I noticed my 3rd brake light was on. If I press the brake, it does get brighter but dims 50% once released. Checked relays and swapped with known good ones, still does the same thing. Fuses are good too. I pulled out the taillight ecu and everything looked okay, slight yellowish residue around some of the solder joints and one pin on the plug had some corrosion on it. Cleaned the board and pigtail and reinstalled and problem still exists. (Maybe important to note, I have all LEDs for exterior lighting)

ive searched for similar issues as mine with power back feeding but I can’t find anything even close to mine. While the running lights are on, they do flicker along with the 3rd brake but it never just goes out completely. I’ve read the integration relay can be a problem causer when it goes bad, but I haven’t pulled that out yet. Just the brake lights and running lights flicker however, front markers and side markers stay constant and plate light also stays constant. 3rd brake, running lights and brake lights flicker.

I just fixed my cluster fuse blowing issue and of course another electrical problem has to make itself known lol. I really appreciate any and all replies, I have no idea where to go from here in diagnosing this.
Old 03-08-24, 08:39 AM
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1997Soarer
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On a non-modified car, issues like yours are almost always caused by faulty ground wires. Look at all of your factory grounds and see if you left some unplugged after you did your swap. Also, if something is corroded, try to repair or replace it if needed.
I do not know what else you did, but assuming you have all the grounds back in place, then I suspect your electrical problem has to do with your manual swap wiring
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