92 - Car is running horrible after taking out of storage
#31
CEL's are hit or miss from personal experience. Sometimes the ECU never sees the conditions needed to even run it's self tests in order to throw CEL's, and this is usually the case with misfires. In any case if you had an active misfire you would see a constant flashing CEL, and a constantly illuminated CEL means there is a code stored. A lot of the OBD1 codes are electronics issues codes that throw when something is unplugged or fails in a specific manner, save for the air-fuel rich or lean codes. So there's a good chance the car will run like trash but you'll never see a CEL so long as the ECU determines that all the electronics are plugged in and believes they are functioning properly. if the CEL isn't illuminated, for the time being either the ECU seems to think all of it's signals are OK OR it just hasn't had enough time to figure it out yet.
You mentioned moisture and water built up in the spark plug, do you mean in the spark plug well or the tip of the plug? If the tip of the plug is wet this means there is fuel being injected into the cylinder but the plug isn't firing. Which plugs have shown this condition? Also note that this in particular is not usually a problem with the spark plug itself but instead either the coil pack or ignitor that fires that specific plug.
If there is moisture pooled at the bottom of the spark plug wells this also needs to be corrected as it too can prevent the plug from firing. Was there any corrosion on the spark plugs?
Lastly, signs of rodents are pretty obvious. You'll see feces, acorn husks, fur and tiny paw prints. If you've got none of those there's a low likelihood of rodents getting in your engine and even lower likelihood they went to town on your wiring. They prefer the insides of cars more frequently anyway.
You mentioned moisture and water built up in the spark plug, do you mean in the spark plug well or the tip of the plug? If the tip of the plug is wet this means there is fuel being injected into the cylinder but the plug isn't firing. Which plugs have shown this condition? Also note that this in particular is not usually a problem with the spark plug itself but instead either the coil pack or ignitor that fires that specific plug.
If there is moisture pooled at the bottom of the spark plug wells this also needs to be corrected as it too can prevent the plug from firing. Was there any corrosion on the spark plugs?
Lastly, signs of rodents are pretty obvious. You'll see feces, acorn husks, fur and tiny paw prints. If you've got none of those there's a low likelihood of rodents getting in your engine and even lower likelihood they went to town on your wiring. They prefer the insides of cars more frequently anyway.
Cylinder 8
Cylinder 6
#33
I just wanted to check the other side of the block. Does the car need to be fully warm to do the coil test? Since my RPMS are so low wouldnt it take very long for the car to warm up? And it is a good idea to leave the car idleing when its running bad like this?
Worst case is this a good replacement?
https://partsavatar.ca/1990-1997-lex...AaAo86EALw_wcB
https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tu...c903/65955_0_0
Worst case is this a good replacement?
https://partsavatar.ca/1990-1997-lex...AaAo86EALw_wcB
https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tu...c903/65955_0_0
Last edited by ToeNee; 03-29-24 at 05:54 PM.
#34
For the coil test it doesnt have to be warm start with that. if they check out then let it warm up then pull the maf sensor you could try it cold also but you will have to hold the throttle to keep it from dying immediately after starting. are the revs weak in park ? you could rev it with the maf unplugged with the throttle body manually see if the revs become normal without warming it up
#35
For the coil test it doesnt have to be warm start with that. if they check out then let it warm up then pull the maf sensor you could try it cold also but you will have to hold the throttle to keep it from dying immediately after starting. are the revs weak in park ? you could rev it with the maf unplugged with the throttle body manually see if the revs become normal without warming it up
I tried to get a good picture of the inside but it looks very corroded to me.
Last edited by ToeNee; 03-30-24 at 10:50 AM.
#37
Hey, little update your suggestion worked! I got the car semi running perfect again after replacing the lower coil pack. Everything is pretty much normal exept that on a cold start I need to give it a little gas for it to find the idle or it will die. After it finds it its runs perfect. In the videos that I attached above it makes that squeaking noise 2-3 times. It sounds like some sort of belt? Thank you again
#38
Glad it worked out... did you check the bearings on the IACV when you removed it and did you put on a new gasket? as for the squeak if the belts not old check the tension and also remove the belt and spin each pulley listen for roughness
#39
Last edited by ToeNee; 04-09-24 at 11:58 AM.
The following users liked this post:
ToeNee (04-09-24)
#41
Edit: Should I take a look at the TPS?
Edit 2: Got the ticking to stop the tps was not lined up correctly. The car still stuggles to start tho.
Last edited by ToeNee; 05-25-24 at 02:07 PM.
#42
Just an update. The car stalled out on me today. I drove it just down my block on my way to school and just shut off. I got it running again after 10 mins and took it home.
Final Edit: Turns out my IACV was messed up, put a new one in and Im back to normal.
Final Edit: Turns out my IACV was messed up, put a new one in and Im back to normal.
Last edited by ToeNee; 05-25-24 at 02:07 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post