ECU upgrade FUEL mag
#1
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Ok, A freind of mine with a mustang was conversing with me about my lexuspros.com ECU full upgrade. I bought it last summer for 1,200, but im a bit upset that it does work, however the gains do not stay as I want them to.
Basically after the ecu is upgraded, you plug it in, then run the car full throttle 0-100 to calibrate at least 3-4 times. This makes the car very fast for a few days. After these few days, you start up the car and it runs like a stock one, which may a good thing because it uses less fuel at this point. HOWEVER, the only way to get the power back is to pull the EFI fuse to reset and run the car 0-100 a few times, this is dangerous where I live and I would prefer to only have to do it one time under controlled conditions.
The ECU retards its spark timing and fuel mixture back to stock levels when you start drivng conservatively again because it realizes its burning more fuel than usual.
The freind mentioned the "fuel mag," fuelmag.com i believe that is an $85 part when installed will find the peak power when the ecu is calibrated and hold it there permanently. any information on how I can do what I want? Does the "S-AFC" ive heard about do this?
Basically after the ecu is upgraded, you plug it in, then run the car full throttle 0-100 to calibrate at least 3-4 times. This makes the car very fast for a few days. After these few days, you start up the car and it runs like a stock one, which may a good thing because it uses less fuel at this point. HOWEVER, the only way to get the power back is to pull the EFI fuse to reset and run the car 0-100 a few times, this is dangerous where I live and I would prefer to only have to do it one time under controlled conditions.
The ECU retards its spark timing and fuel mixture back to stock levels when you start drivng conservatively again because it realizes its burning more fuel than usual.
The freind mentioned the "fuel mag," fuelmag.com i believe that is an $85 part when installed will find the peak power when the ecu is calibrated and hold it there permanently. any information on how I can do what I want? Does the "S-AFC" ive heard about do this?
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That site didn't work for me, maybe another name perhaps.
That sucks about that ECU, makes me glad to have gone with a Unichip thing, still wish it were easier to adjust myself.
There are companies that make devices like the Venom module, but they're specific to each model of car, and our cars aren't offered.
That sucks about that ECU, makes me glad to have gone with a Unichip thing, still wish it were easier to adjust myself.
There are companies that make devices like the Venom module, but they're specific to each model of car, and our cars aren't offered.
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#8
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Alstadt- the Unichip works well, having the timing not retard during shifts is very nice, not harsh at all.
I've taken things one step further and ported out the MAF, raised the fuel pressure. The car has even more power now, power delivery is smoother too; very good throttle response.
I've taken things one step further and ported out the MAF, raised the fuel pressure. The car has even more power now, power delivery is smoother too; very good throttle response.
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I loved my unichip. You tapped the gas and the SC wanted to move. I sold it in Nov. It's got a good home now.
SCV8 - How did you port the MAF? I'm assuming you used an aftermarket fuel pump to raise FP right? I'm looking to pick up another unichip along with jbrady's headers to give the SC some more power.
SCV8 - How did you port the MAF? I'm assuming you used an aftermarket fuel pump to raise FP right? I'm looking to pick up another unichip along with jbrady's headers to give the SC some more power.
#10
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I started messing with the MAF about a year ago,filed away about .125" from the wall that separates the bypass chamber, figured I'd screwed it up for good when it didn't run much better(was in open loop most likely),made a shim to "put back" the material I'd removed.It ran great again,and until recently,was afraid to get wrapped up in a tuning frenzy.
I began by increasing the fuel pressure slightly to compensate for a much larger aircleaner,and having knife-edging the vanes in the intake ports when I had the intake off for the changing of the strater;it needed it.
After this I began to think that it may be time to remove the shim and see if I could achieve a correct situation. After gradually increasing the pressure in small increments,re-setting the air bypass adjustment each time to maintain a closed loop running situation, I finally achieved high speed power, after two weeks of adjustments and the air bypass screw was still in the original position after all of the changes.
You can buy kits that convert a stock fuel pressure regulator to become adjustable, but I chose to first try using the method that the regulator had been set from the factory; distorting the top until the desired pressure had been obtained.
The car makes more power mostly where the cam allows;the midrange,and the off idle response is great.
I began by increasing the fuel pressure slightly to compensate for a much larger aircleaner,and having knife-edging the vanes in the intake ports when I had the intake off for the changing of the strater;it needed it.
After this I began to think that it may be time to remove the shim and see if I could achieve a correct situation. After gradually increasing the pressure in small increments,re-setting the air bypass adjustment each time to maintain a closed loop running situation, I finally achieved high speed power, after two weeks of adjustments and the air bypass screw was still in the original position after all of the changes.
You can buy kits that convert a stock fuel pressure regulator to become adjustable, but I chose to first try using the method that the regulator had been set from the factory; distorting the top until the desired pressure had been obtained.
The car makes more power mostly where the cam allows;the midrange,and the off idle response is great.
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I've heard some people remove the screen from the MAF to increase air flow. Does this work or will it kill the engine?
I'd be a little to nervous about messing with it.
What is the air bypass screw?
I'd be a little to nervous about messing with it.
What is the air bypass screw?
Last edited by Vegassc400; 02-22-04 at 03:38 PM.
#12
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The screen is necessary, and there are several areas that'll accept smoothing out for performance/driveability gains w/out sacrificing gas mileage or smog.
The screw is what the manufacturer used to dial it in to the existing parameters, is located on the drivers side of the MAF.
The screw is what the manufacturer used to dial it in to the existing parameters, is located on the drivers side of the MAF.
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SCV8 - what thingy do you mess with to raise fuel pressure? Where is it located and how do you "distort it?" Perhaps a pic?
Also, where can I get more info on unichip?
Also, where can I get more info on unichip?
#14
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I purchased my car in Austin TX, there's a lot of nice SCs down there.
The Fuel pressure regulator is only going to help you if you have an opened up MAF, without any airflow mods, the stock air/fuel ratios are decent; it's the ignition timing that really hurts the performance on these cars, and the Unichip(made by Dastek,in New Zealand) helps out with that.
The regulator is located on top of the right hand fuel injector rail, towards the front of the engine; to raise the pressure requires that the top be distorted downwards in order to add more pre-load to the spring inside.I used a small ball/peen hammer and a drift.
Since this kind of adjustment is not only sensitive and touchy, but irreversable, wouldn't reccomend it unless you have a much larger aircleaner, altered ignition timing,ported MAF.
If I were to go about the performance thing all over again on this car, I would be tempted to buy two MSD ignition units and use some of their pre-set ignition advance curves, then play with the fuel system using an s-afc, or just play with the fuel pressure.
Every car I've owned for the last twenty years has been tuned by me, so I kind of have the advantage of experience,and wouldn't want to lead anyone into screwing up their car, but if you've played around with tuning before, this has worked for me; give it a try.
The Fuel pressure regulator is only going to help you if you have an opened up MAF, without any airflow mods, the stock air/fuel ratios are decent; it's the ignition timing that really hurts the performance on these cars, and the Unichip(made by Dastek,in New Zealand) helps out with that.
The regulator is located on top of the right hand fuel injector rail, towards the front of the engine; to raise the pressure requires that the top be distorted downwards in order to add more pre-load to the spring inside.I used a small ball/peen hammer and a drift.
Since this kind of adjustment is not only sensitive and touchy, but irreversable, wouldn't reccomend it unless you have a much larger aircleaner, altered ignition timing,ported MAF.
If I were to go about the performance thing all over again on this car, I would be tempted to buy two MSD ignition units and use some of their pre-set ignition advance curves, then play with the fuel system using an s-afc, or just play with the fuel pressure.
Every car I've owned for the last twenty years has been tuned by me, so I kind of have the advantage of experience,and wouldn't want to lead anyone into screwing up their car, but if you've played around with tuning before, this has worked for me; give it a try.