Senator

I know that some of you are wondering about custom fit driveshafts.

I work in the industrial truck business and work closely with a company called Inland Truck Supply.

They are based out of Lenexa Kansas, but have shops all over. (I don't know about NY sorry )

They built a drive shaft for my dad's 73 camaro, my jeep, the MGB, and when its ready, they will be building one for my AE86.

This is just an idea as to what they can do. Trucks are not their limit, and their work is great. Check to see if there is a location around where you guys are located.

Texas members, PM me, I can put you in touch with both the Irving and Dallas folks.

Josh

MoogieBoogie

Just the transmission.

jpvarghese

iTrader: (1)

My question is; if you ever did convert an auto to a manual; would it ever drive the same as if it was a manual to begin with?

DETUNED

why wouldn't it? The only difference with my car, is that I don't have to push the clutch pedal in when I start the car. But that was only a safty issue in the states. Other countries don't even have that.

jpvarghese

iTrader: (1)

Well my car is a '99; knowing that the '97 was the last year they mad the manuals; do you think they might not have the "templates" in the firewall to accomodate a manual?

deruvian

Well, I'm obviously not sure about the SC3, but a lot of cars drive very different after a swap... Especially RWD cars.

In automatic transmission cars, some manufacturers do not design the rear subframe to be as stiff as their manual transmission counterparts. This setup, when matched with a engine that creates decent torque, creates a lot of driveline bounce.

This occurred when I swapped a Subaru WRX AWD 5MT into my automatic Subaru SVX. It is a well known problem in those cars, since they never came with a MT from the factory. Since there are very few aftermarket parts for those cars, many MT swappers have replaced the subframe bushings with very large steel washers... Sort of a Frankenstein type of fix, but it works (mostly).

Of course, a SC3 MT swapper will have to comment on this. I have no idea if this is the case with our cars.

DETUNED

it wont make a difference. I'm using the stock rear subframe with a 6 speed diff and it's fine, even with 830rwhp on race gas.

DXE

is it worth it... in your guys opinion...

i cant find a 5 speed sc that suits me anywhere...

considering just getting a auto and doing a conversion...

worth it or not? in your opinion

jpvarghese

iTrader: (1)

Well it all depends; I'll tell you what I've been noticing recently though. The 5-speeds that are for sale sell cheap, but the majority of them have 100k + miles. I mean they were available from '92-97 if I'm not mistaken. The ones that are commonly for sale are the '92-'94. The '95 are probably the latest year you will find a little more of and the '96-'97 are almost IMPOSSIBLE to find from my experience in good condition! Like I said earlier the 5-speed models usually have a **** ton miles; are over 10 years old, and are not in the greatest condition usually. Also, if the seller is pretty informed, they would be priced a lot higher than they are actually worth and people would still buy them since they are highly demanded. I've seen these range anywhere from $2500 (if you're godamn lucky) to $10,000 for '92-'95 with at least 90k miles and anywhere higher than 150k. The '96-'97 can range anywhere from $10k-$15k if you can find one (high mileage of course); and obviously low mileage ones can get high in the teens~$15k-$19k. Yeah the older ones are cheap but there are ALOT of factors you got to consider: condition of paint, condition of interior (leather,seating,paneling), electronics, squeaks/rattles, discolored headlights, rust, and mechanical stuff. Age can do alot of damage to a car if not taken care of properly. All this stuff adds up the cost to replace/recondition/refurbish. As I see it you are throwing your money away to restore your car to new condition; new paint, '97+ exterior, clutch, bushings, mounts, hinges, tune-up, interior, etc. See what I mean? After added up the cost, you could have gotten yourself a later year lower-mileaged auto. i think the best deal right now are the autos by far. There is absoultely no demand for them; kinda forcing the prices down. They are definitely negotiable. See there is a huge difference in market value and what its worth. So far the autos are selling alot less than what they are worth, but the manuals definitely hold their value and sometimes sell for if not greater than what they're worth. Considering the common demograph for this car when sold new was for elderly people; most of the cars were auto and most likely PROPERLY taken care of and not beaten on. Most of the autos I've seen are in EXCELLENT condition inside and out and have far less miles than their manual conterparts of the same year. The manual cars are usually purchased by enthusiasts; hence the higher miles and wear and tear. I say go for an auto, unless you can find that lucky 5-speed in GOOD condition for a nice price! Seeing the stuff I see on sale on e-bay/autotrader; I wouldn't purchase **** when it comes for the 5-speeds; none of the ones I've seen are in great condition. I wouldn't mind the higher mileage unless the interior and exterior are mint. Hey, no one ever said this game was cheap!

deruvian

I have to agree with jpvarghese. I shopped for about 3 months to find my SC3 MT. I almost bought one about 600 miles away, in worse condition. Then, on like the last day before deciding I found one within a 2 hour drive. It was in almost mint-condition, 1995, with 107k. Paid $9500...

However, it already had intake, exhaust, suspension, sub, and extra wheels w/ tires. The body is in fantastic shape, and the interior is pretty decent. But I got terribly lucky, and that's after 3 months of being car-less!

Had the car for about 2 months, and so far no problems. Again, I think that I got really lucky.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

jpvarghese has a good point. It took me 7 months to find my 1995 SC300 5 speed and it's in good condition and had ~85,000 miles (original owner). If you can find a cheap auto in great condition, this is the best thing to do. Read and analyze the service manuals for your car, search all the forums, learn from more experienced folks, then convert your auto to 6 speed getrag if you MUST have a manual transmission. At least you'll have a unabused car to start with and most likely you'll find sc300 autos for sale locally compared to MT sc300s.

jpvarghese

iTrader: (1)

When doing the conversion what parts from the 5-speed are similar/can be interchanged with the 6-speed Getrag?? What new partsw must be replaced? Detuned, did you have to change the sub-tunnel as well? As in the Supra does the manual sit higher than the auto in the SC as well; hence the sub-tunnel work? It's almost impossible to find 5-speed parts used; especially the interior modifications; where can I find this stuff for cheap? Since there are alot more N/A Supra parts around; are there any for the manual conversion that are interchangable?

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

If I understand this correctly, the 1995-1997 5 speed manual sc300's do not need the transmission tunnel to be modified to bolt on the getrag 6 speed (apparently it "bolts up"). The 1992-1994 SC300's will need the transmission tunnel cut and bent to properly fit the getrag 6 speed transmission.

jpvarghese

iTrader: (1)

Is that the same case for the autos? Ok question of the hour; Do I need a new shifter assembly for the 6-speed if I have the W58 shifter assembly; or are they the same?

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

No it's not the same for autos..that's why I said "5 SPEED."