Another Twin Turbo SC400?
11-16-04, 04:27 PM
#46
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Originally posted by chrisman
the car will be on the road anyday, but i will let the owner know.. if you guys want, i 'l get the owner to come by this weekend so he can show you guys the car.. i just have a few things to finish off, but i know he wants to pick it up ASAP... il get back to this forum with details..
i am finishing some polishing and will post some nice pics as soon as i do.. one of the things im trying is replacing the MAS or MAF with intake piping.. im removing the sensor from the cast lexus housing and installing it in the alum intake piping..-i want to see how/if it will work.. it looks alot cleaner, but i want to make sure it works well..-- i like trying stuff out.. makes going to work a little more interesting..
the car will be on the road anyday, but i will let the owner know.. if you guys want, i 'l get the owner to come by this weekend so he can show you guys the car.. i just have a few things to finish off, but i know he wants to pick it up ASAP... il get back to this forum with details..
i am finishing some polishing and will post some nice pics as soon as i do.. one of the things im trying is replacing the MAS or MAF with intake piping.. im removing the sensor from the cast lexus housing and installing it in the alum intake piping..-i want to see how/if it will work.. it looks alot cleaner, but i want to make sure it works well..-- i like trying stuff out.. makes going to work a little more interesting..
11-16-04, 11:44 PM
#47
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i removed the maf from the cast housing .. i know alot of guys use this housing for supras-- or thats what i heard anyway.. the maf need s tobe suported from the top and bottom--it doesnt "float", it is supported for the top and bottom.. i know the intake air velocity can reach speeds of close to 200 mph on a high rpm motor.. so physicaly supporting the maf is important.... i need to read up on exactly how it works, so i can make sure it works properly when im done..if it works well, i can maybe sell some- or at least write some info/experiances down so other guys can do the same..
i have been taking pics along the way.. and have no problem sharing info.. for example, i used an alternator that has a smaller housing.. but it is rebuilt and can put out 100 amps.. because it is smaller, it gave me more room on that side of the engine to run the exhaust/downpipe along the motor.. il attach a pic so you can see what im talking about...
i also rerouted the belt.. i did this becase i have removed the ac and rerouting it helped me keep it away from the downpipe/heat.. il attach a pic of that also.. anyway, im bablin.. il talk to you guys tomorow..
i have been taking pics along the way.. and have no problem sharing info.. for example, i used an alternator that has a smaller housing.. but it is rebuilt and can put out 100 amps.. because it is smaller, it gave me more room on that side of the engine to run the exhaust/downpipe along the motor.. il attach a pic so you can see what im talking about...
i also rerouted the belt.. i did this becase i have removed the ac and rerouting it helped me keep it away from the downpipe/heat.. il attach a pic of that also.. anyway, im bablin.. il talk to you guys tomorow..
Last edited by chrisman; 11-16-04 at 11:52 PM.
11-17-04, 07:44 AM
#49
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Originally posted by Philly#1 Lex
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11-17-04, 07:46 AM
#50
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Originally posted by chrisman
i removed the maf from the cast housing .. i know alot of guys use this housing for supras-- or thats what i heard anyway.. the maf need s tobe suported from the top and bottom--it doesnt "float", it is supported for the top and bottom.. i know the intake air velocity can reach speeds of close to 200 mph on a high rpm motor.. so physicaly supporting the maf is important.... i need to read up on exactly how it works, so i can make sure it works properly when im done..if it works well, i can maybe sell some- or at least write some info/experiances down so other guys can do the same..
i have been taking pics along the way.. and have no problem sharing info.. for example, i used an alternator that has a smaller housing.. but it is rebuilt and can put out 100 amps.. because it is smaller, it gave me more room on that side of the engine to run the exhaust/downpipe along the motor.. il attach a pic so you can see what im talking about...
i also rerouted the belt.. i did this becase i have removed the ac and rerouting it helped me keep it away from the downpipe/heat.. il attach a pic of that also.. anyway, im bablin.. il talk to you guys tomorow..
i removed the maf from the cast housing .. i know alot of guys use this housing for supras-- or thats what i heard anyway.. the maf need s tobe suported from the top and bottom--it doesnt "float", it is supported for the top and bottom.. i know the intake air velocity can reach speeds of close to 200 mph on a high rpm motor.. so physicaly supporting the maf is important.... i need to read up on exactly how it works, so i can make sure it works properly when im done..if it works well, i can maybe sell some- or at least write some info/experiances down so other guys can do the same..
i have been taking pics along the way.. and have no problem sharing info.. for example, i used an alternator that has a smaller housing.. but it is rebuilt and can put out 100 amps.. because it is smaller, it gave me more room on that side of the engine to run the exhaust/downpipe along the motor.. il attach a pic so you can see what im talking about...
i also rerouted the belt.. i did this becase i have removed the ac and rerouting it helped me keep it away from the downpipe/heat.. il attach a pic of that also.. anyway, im bablin.. il talk to you guys tomorow..
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11-17-04, 09:15 AM
#51
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the amount of space under the hood of most modern cars is limited..especially an expensive car like the sc.. although i removed the AC, i am pretty sure you could leave it in.. but in this case, i used 4 into 1 stainless headers, and 3 inch pipe to and from the turbos.. the goal for this owner is a high HP luxury cruiser, so a decision was made to remove the AC.. this made my job of plumbing the larger pipes easier..
as for the rest of the componants-- nothing else was removed--just relocated.. even the hydraulic fan was kept.. all in an effort to keep the reliability of the lexus as it was..the engine management-or the toyota ecu will remain also.. it has been my experience that unless you plan to have a race only car--you should keep the factory ecu..
for trouble free day to day driveabilty nothing beats the original toyota ecu.. now that being said, any turbo engine especially a high HP engine does need alot of fuel, and some way to control ignition.. the extra fuel will come from the 8 extra injectors that will get installed and controlled with a seperate Extra Injector Controller..this ONLY comes on under boost---only when the engine needs it..
if you think about it, how often wil the car need the extra fuel..maybe 5% of the time.. the other 95 percent of the time your just cruisin..
anway, like i said nothing else was removed just relocated..there is ALOT of what i call plumbing---water lines, oil lines, etc that needs to be done.. even the air or intake piping is plumbing..so i guess in the end, you just need to be a PLUMBER to install some turbos..
just kidding..plumbers make more money than most guys working on cars.
as for the rest of the componants-- nothing else was removed--just relocated.. even the hydraulic fan was kept.. all in an effort to keep the reliability of the lexus as it was..the engine management-or the toyota ecu will remain also.. it has been my experience that unless you plan to have a race only car--you should keep the factory ecu..
for trouble free day to day driveabilty nothing beats the original toyota ecu.. now that being said, any turbo engine especially a high HP engine does need alot of fuel, and some way to control ignition.. the extra fuel will come from the 8 extra injectors that will get installed and controlled with a seperate Extra Injector Controller..this ONLY comes on under boost---only when the engine needs it..
if you think about it, how often wil the car need the extra fuel..maybe 5% of the time.. the other 95 percent of the time your just cruisin..
anway, like i said nothing else was removed just relocated..there is ALOT of what i call plumbing---water lines, oil lines, etc that needs to be done.. even the air or intake piping is plumbing..so i guess in the end, you just need to be a PLUMBER to install some turbos..
just kidding..plumbers make more money than most guys working on cars.
11-17-04, 09:20 AM
#52
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Originally posted by chrisman
the amount of space under the hood of most modern cars is limited..especially an expensive car like the sc.. although i removed the AC, i am pretty sure you could leave it in.. but in this case, i used 4 into 1 stainless headers, and 3 inch pipe to and from the turbos.. the goal for this owner is a high HP luxury cruiser, so a decision was made to remove the AC.. this made my job of plumbing the larger pipes easier..
as for the rest of the componants-- nothing else was removed--just relocated.. even the hydraulic fan was kept.. all in an effort to keep the reliability of the lexus as it was..the engine management-or the toyota ecu will remain also.. it has been my experience that unless you plan to have a race only car--you should keep the factory ecu..
for trouble free day to day driveabilty nothing beats the original toyota ecu.. now that being said, any turbo engine especially a high HP engine does need alot of fuel, and some way to control ignition.. the extra fuel will come from the 8 extra injectors that will get installed and controlled with a seperate Extra Injector Controller..this ONLY comes on under boost---only when the engine needs it..
if you think about it, how often wil the car need the extra fuel..maybe 5% of the time.. the other 95 percent of the time your just cruisin..
anway, like i said nothing else was removed just relocated..there is ALOT of what i call plumbing---water lines, oil lines, etc that needs to be done.. even the air or intake piping is plumbing..so i guess in the end, you just need to be a PLUMBER to install some turbos.. just kidding..plumbers make more money than most guys working on cars.
the amount of space under the hood of most modern cars is limited..especially an expensive car like the sc.. although i removed the AC, i am pretty sure you could leave it in.. but in this case, i used 4 into 1 stainless headers, and 3 inch pipe to and from the turbos.. the goal for this owner is a high HP luxury cruiser, so a decision was made to remove the AC.. this made my job of plumbing the larger pipes easier..
as for the rest of the componants-- nothing else was removed--just relocated.. even the hydraulic fan was kept.. all in an effort to keep the reliability of the lexus as it was..the engine management-or the toyota ecu will remain also.. it has been my experience that unless you plan to have a race only car--you should keep the factory ecu..
for trouble free day to day driveabilty nothing beats the original toyota ecu.. now that being said, any turbo engine especially a high HP engine does need alot of fuel, and some way to control ignition.. the extra fuel will come from the 8 extra injectors that will get installed and controlled with a seperate Extra Injector Controller..this ONLY comes on under boost---only when the engine needs it..
if you think about it, how often wil the car need the extra fuel..maybe 5% of the time.. the other 95 percent of the time your just cruisin..
anway, like i said nothing else was removed just relocated..there is ALOT of what i call plumbing---water lines, oil lines, etc that needs to be done.. even the air or intake piping is plumbing..so i guess in the end, you just need to be a PLUMBER to install some turbos..
just kidding..plumbers make more money than most guys working on cars.
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11-17-04, 09:39 AM
#53
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this particular engine has over 120,000 miles.. but it runs great.. .i think it is an average amount of miles for the year.. this is a 93.. i will eventually replace this engine, but in the meantime all of the development will be done to this engine to figure out what people can expect from there car.. and every mod will be explained along the way.. hopefully this will save some people alot of time and money--. i can understand not wanting to take risks with your car, and i have no problem sharing any info i gather..
heres a kinda blurry pic of the header from the drivers or AC side.. you can see a little of the downpipe also..
heres a kinda blurry pic of the header from the drivers or AC side.. you can see a little of the downpipe also..
11-17-04, 09:41 AM
#54
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Originally posted by chrisman
this particular engine has over 120,000 miles.. but it runs great.. .i think it is an average amount of miles for the year.. this is a 93.. i will eventually replace this engine, but in the meantime all of the development will be done to this engine to figure out what people can expect from there car.. and every mod will be explained along the way.. hopefully this will save some people alot of time and money--. i can understand not wanting to take risks with your car, and i have no problem sharing any info i gather..
heres a kinda blurry pic of the header from the drivers or AC side.. you can see a little of the downpipe also..
this particular engine has over 120,000 miles.. but it runs great.. .i think it is an average amount of miles for the year.. this is a 93.. i will eventually replace this engine, but in the meantime all of the development will be done to this engine to figure out what people can expect from there car.. and every mod will be explained along the way.. hopefully this will save some people alot of time and money--. i can understand not wanting to take risks with your car, and i have no problem sharing any info i gather..
heres a kinda blurry pic of the header from the drivers or AC side.. you can see a little of the downpipe also..
CEO
11-17-04, 11:22 AM
#56
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Originally posted by Lextreme
Actually before Chris start posting those pics, i plan to build a Twin T3/4 with pretty much the same path.
Actually before Chris start posting those pics, i plan to build a Twin T3/4 with pretty much the same path.
CEO
11-17-04, 04:45 PM
#58
Chrisman, if you plan on maintaining the oem fuel sytem for simplicity/reliability, I'd reccomend somehow keeping the MAF, it's a fussy, finely tuned unit. If you alter the size of the opening inside, you'll need to compensate with higher fuel pressure,or possibly electronics and will also need to have a bypass like the stock one to really tune the engine for idle emissions.
I ported mine out a bit, but it was pretty hairy getting back into closed loop again; didn't take much fuel pressure change to put the mixture out of range either way.
Gained some good top-end hp though!
I ported mine out a bit, but it was pretty hairy getting back into closed loop again; didn't take much fuel pressure change to put the mixture out of range either way.
Gained some good top-end hp though!
11-17-04, 07:23 PM
#59
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Originally posted by ChronoJ1
You really like your AC, don't you.
You really like your AC, don't you.
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11-18-04, 01:09 AM
#60
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sc v8, i did end up instaling the MAF into the intake tube--roughly in the same location as stock..it is after the blow off valve.. if you look closely at the pic im attaching you can see it.. i guess in the lexus cast MAF the bypass adjustment screw is kinda important.. isnt there some kinda mod guys do to this? since i did change the shape and dimiensions of the MAF, i am concerned about how to adjust this.. you had mentioned that changing the fuel pressure might get me close.. should i be concerned at idle only or throughout the engine rpm?
lextreme, are you planing on turbo-ing an sc400 or the sedan?
anyway, heres a pic of the intake pipe..
lextreme, are you planing on turbo-ing an sc400 or the sedan?
anyway, heres a pic of the intake pipe..