ATTN: 5-speed guys with loose/notchy shifts...
#1
ATTN: 5-speed guys with loose/notchy shifts...
Hey guys, as some of you may know, I have been doing my clutch this week and I finished it up today. The results are awesome and Im very happy that I was able to do it. The Exedy OEM-style clutch has a great feel, and the clutch isnt nearly as hard as it used to be. Now onto the good news for everyone, while I was doing my clutch, I figured it would be a damn good time to fix my notchy notchy tranny. At first I figured that the tranny would have to be rebuilt, but after some advice from here and supraforums I decided to try somethin else. So I bought these two parts:
Green shifter seat - 33505-35020
White shifter bushing - 33548-31010
When I took out my shifter I was AMAZED by what I saw, the old green shifter bushing (rubber) had decintigrated into a thousand tiny chunks. So I carefully cleaned up all the green specks/mush and was careful to clean out any that may have fell into the tranny. The shifter bushing wasnt THAT bad, just very yellow, and kinda hard and difficult to turn, but I of course replcaed that too.
The results of these two simple parts, which cost no more than $20 at your local Toyota dealership, is outstanding. The gearbox feels like new, and is no longer loose/notchy. I can not get over it. I WISH I had taken pics of the carnage of the old seat
Green shifter seat - 33505-35020
White shifter bushing - 33548-31010
When I took out my shifter I was AMAZED by what I saw, the old green shifter bushing (rubber) had decintigrated into a thousand tiny chunks. So I carefully cleaned up all the green specks/mush and was careful to clean out any that may have fell into the tranny. The shifter bushing wasnt THAT bad, just very yellow, and kinda hard and difficult to turn, but I of course replcaed that too.
The results of these two simple parts, which cost no more than $20 at your local Toyota dealership, is outstanding. The gearbox feels like new, and is no longer loose/notchy. I can not get over it. I WISH I had taken pics of the carnage of the old seat
#5
AWESOME! Thats what I have a problem with in mine. Notchy shifting. I need a new clutch I think too, not really slipping all that much, but it could definately be better. Were these parts inside the transmission that you can only replace when you drop it out, or can I replace them another way.
Also, I have a stock 92 SC3 5spd, is that the W58 trans?
Also, I have a stock 92 SC3 5spd, is that the W58 trans?
#6
Originally Posted by TMaxxTim
AWESOME! Thats what I have a problem with in mine. Notchy shifting. I need a new clutch I think too, not really slipping all that much, but it could definately be better. Were these parts inside the transmission that you can only replace when you drop it out, or can I replace them another way.
Also, I have a stock 92 SC3 5spd, is that the W58 trans?
Also, I have a stock 92 SC3 5spd, is that the W58 trans?
Heres a quick write-up of how to access the seat/bushing:
1.) Remove shift ****
2.) Remove the black plastic trim in which the leather shift boot is held on by (2 clips)
3.) Remove cupholder
4.) You should see 6 screws holding the tan center console trim in (the big piece that goes around the vol/temp ***** and all the way around to the top). Remove these
5.) Pop this trim in, its held in by 5 slips near the top
6.) Remove the four 10mm bolts holding the rubber shift boot in place
7.) Now there will be a SECOND rubber shift boot which is almost "skin tight" around the base of the shifter. You will have to get something under the lip of it and get a corner off, then carefully pry the rest of it off. If you absolutely have to, then you may have to poke a hole in it to get it off (I dont really think its THAT important anyhoo)
8.) Now there will four more 10mm bolts, remove these, and dont mix these up with the other four bolts.
9.) Now just pull your shifter straight up out of the tranny (better to have it neutral for this) and ther you go
You should see the seat (the part that disintegrates) right in the hole where you pulled the shifter out of.
There you go man, good luck, and keep us updated!
PS. That is from memory, so there may be an error or two. Also there will be 2 or 3 electrical connections along the way, carefully disconnect these
Trending Topics
#11
Alright! I'm going to the toyota dealership today to pick these up. HE said about $10 for the green shifter seat and $5 for the white shifter bushing. I'll take some pictures along the way and then let you guys know how I came out in the end.
#12
Well I did it. It was VERY messy with lots of black greasy gunk down and int here so I cleaned it all out and replaced both parts and it truly does feel like a new transmission. I forgot to take pictures, but it was so cramped in there I don't think I could have anyways and gotten them to turn out. Its a fairly simple procedure and the steps listed above worked just fine. The stick is much much tighter now and it doesn't rock back and forth anywhere like what it used to, even if I try to move it myself in gear it doesn't move all around like before. Thanks for the great write-up!
#13
Originally Posted by TMaxxTim
Well I did it. It was VERY messy with lots of black greasy gunk down and int here so I cleaned it all out and replaced both parts and it truly does feel like a new transmission. I forgot to take pictures, but it was so cramped in there I don't think I could have anyways and gotten them to turn out. Its a fairly simple procedure and the steps listed above worked just fine. The stick is much much tighter now and it doesn't rock back and forth anywhere like what it used to, even if I try to move it myself in gear it doesn't move all around like before. Thanks for the great write-up!
#14
Originally Posted by wmulli
Waht year is your SC? It sounds like a pre '96. The shift linkage on the later models is different and the part numbers you quoted may not be tha same...
#15
I'm not 100% certain, but I think they changed in the middle of the 95 model run. The older style shifter has a ball at the bottom of the shift lever. The newer models have a hole in the bottom where it bolts up to the linkage. Whether that matters to the bushings mentioned