i have done some massive searching on these forums using the all knowing SEARCH button and found alot of info however i still have a few questions.

1. I have seen a few people buy FMICs off fleabay and it worked for them, i found one fmic that is"Core Length : 24" (600mm)
Core Height: 12" (300mm)
Core Thickness: 3" (75mm)
Inlet Size: 2.5" o/d (60mm)
Outlet Size: 2.5" o/d (60mm)
"End to End" Length: 31" (775mm)" with a free Monza BOV, will these dimensions work? has anyone ever heard of Monza?

2. Since i have an A/T i only want to run give or take 300hp / tq. Should i go ahead and get a thicker head gasket like a 2mm to play it safe or can the stock gasket take that much? (assuming i can get these numbers around 8-10psi)

btw i my set up will be DaveH with a PT51, the oil lines by daveh, walbro fuel pump, custom IC piping. will there be anything i else i need to make it run efficiently? I want to make my car a cruiser, not a 1/4mi. monster.

 

1) yes, it will fit. wtf is monza? hahah i think that's the repica hks ssqv right? i'm sure it'll be okay for the power you're looking for.

2) if you're only look at 300hp i don't see the need to upgrade your head gasket it's a little $200 item that'll total you up to $1000 to put in (assuming you dont do it yourself, which is what i'd suggest.) but if money's not an issue i'd try to be on the safe side.

3) the only suggestion i have right now is get a oil cooler!

 

Is your car a 95 or 96?
If it's a 96, it'll be much more expensive to make it into a cruiser.
Reason being: ECU
If you turbo a '96 SC, you'll need to run standalone which will run you an extra $1000-2000 + tuning.
If it's a 95, it's much easier to attain your 300 hp goal and maintain driveability.
Let me know which year it is and I can point you in the right direction.

~Alan

 

Its a 95 automatic tranny, i just had the engine fully serviced at JPI so its in great condition

 

Good start.

~Alan

 

That's not entirely true. Making 300hp doesnt require a standalone. The main reason for running a standalone is just to get the most power out of your setup. You can run a piggy-back and that will be good enough for 300hp.

Ryan

 

no, actually he is right on this one. seems like obdII ecu's have problems and Sportcoupe knows what he's talking about because he experienced it and so have many 96+ sc's that have gone turbo.

 

Those Street import cores are tube and fin I believe which isn't a good thing when looking for a fmic. That bov will probably fall apart and leak like hell. To my surprise, it looks like there is a decent fmic core on fleabay.

It's the OBX fmic, 12x24x3 I believe. I think they're only like $275 with endtanks and 3" inlet/outlet. Do a search for "OBX FMIC" and it'll come up. Even though it's OBX -and they make some cheap stuff, at least it's a bar + plate design which is better.

 

Well, unless the SC obdII ecu is different than the Supra obdII ecu, than it is possible. There is a member on supraforums.com that is making 357rwhp through some fuel upgrades and an HKS s-afr.

 

ill check that out thanks!

ok so i can safely run 300ish hp on the stock headgasket. should i get new injectors? i read some where that the engine can run lean and i would need to get a new maf, is this true?

 

You should be fine with stock fuel if all you want is 300 whp. There's a few n/a-T supra guys making upper 300s on stock fuel. As for the V8 maf, I believe it is a way to compensate for the more air for people who get bigger injectors and don't want to go too negative on something like an s-afc.

 

not to jack your thread but i do plan on going na-t. it's been a while for me collecting parts by parts to complete my kit and im glad im getting there pretty soon.

i, too, plan to achieve 300-320rwhp. i heard you dont need to change head gasket and you can still use your stock injectors. upgrading fuel pump is a must, though.

 

That "shouldn't" be a problem. If you are really worried you could just send your injectors to RC engineering and get them cleaned out. It is true that you can run lean, BUT, that all depends on you. If YOU choose to turn up the boost too much then YES your car will run lean, but as long as you keep the boost down(6-8)psi, you shouldn't have problem. If you plan on upgrading you can always upgrade to the fd RX-7 injectors and piggypack with a MAP-ECU or a VPC/GCC combo. I personally have the MAP-ECU, and I made 501rwhp on stock fuel on my Supra, and couldnt be any happier with it. Once I get a fuel system there shouldnt be a problem with me making upwards of 600rwhp with proper tuning. It gets rid of the restrictive MAF sensor, and allows you to tune your fuel map through a lap top and Dyno/Wideband. You can look more into at www.map-ecu.com, or you can email obiwan84@aol.com, he can give you all the info you need. Good Luck with your set-up.

 

good infos ryan....
but i dont if i can spend more $$$ for vpc/gcc stuff. basically, i just want to have a reliable and driveable car for now and will eventually upgrade later on. like we talked about with Will, he seems to know pretty much about na-t....and of course "you" as well..........

personally, i wud really like to install the 440cc injectors and replace head gasket cuz i know sooner or later, i wud be boosting more but not to the extent to brake my auto tranny...hehe
also, i wud really like to use safc to compensate with fue/air adjustments. i dont want to car to run lean at all..............scary ****......!!!

 

No, the '96 ECU is the same in the NA Supra and the SC.
Yes, I can easily make upwards of 300rwhp on this ECU, but there's a reason I decided to keep my setup basic and run stock injectors; that reason is driveability (ask any Lexus enthusiast if you don't know what the big deal about this is).
My car is a daily driver. Unlike most people who define 'daily driver' as a car that could be driven everyday without major issues, my car actually does get driven each and every single day.
Now, here are the 2 issues with the '96 ECU:
1) It runs lean between 3-4000 RPM no matter what you do. (AFC, VPC, MAP-ECU) Reason being is that all these piggybacks do the same exact thing. They mimick the MAF signal. Why is this ineffective? Because at 3-4000RPM, the ECU is not taking the MAF signal into consideration nearly as much as it should. It is basing fuel delivery on other signals.
2) It develops a missfire at idle. Don't ask me why...I wish i knew. All I do know is that if I let my car idle for about 10 minutes, it will develop a pretty bad missfire, start throwing codes, and spew raw gas out the tailpipe (this killed my catalytic converter). All I have to do is reset the ECU, and the car purrs like a kitten for about 10-20 minutes until the ECU starts messing around again.

So why would I go out and spend another $1500 on a standalone, knowing that I'm gonna need to spend at least another $1000 on tuning it when I can just stick with my SAFC?
Because I'm not happy making 357rwhp in a car that drives like a half-broken Chevy.
I'd rather make 300rwhp in a Lexus.

~Alan
P.S. AEM EMS opens a whole new world to you and your car. (Adjustable soft rev-limit with a few clicks of the mouse, no need for MAF, fully controllable fuel and ignition maps, as well as idle control and many more features I'm missing) You can't do any of this with a piggyback because all you have to work with is that 0-5V MAF signal.