soarer 1jzgte swap guide
#16
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so basically what is being said is that for the most part with the wiring all that has to be done is the harness made the correct length and all the connectors just plug in? Sounds to easy to me... But maybe? So the SC300 dash and ecu plugs are the same as the Soarer dash and ECU plugs? Body side plugs?
#17
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By the way I've always wondered why you couldn't use the US 2JZGTE harness, ECU, Injectors, etc... on a 1JZGTE.. This way you could just wire it up like the Supra TT swap and it would also be a fuel upgrade as well due to the 550cc Supra injectors VS. the 370cc Soarer injectors. The only down side would be the use of an air meter instead of a map sensor.. However this way all the factory stuff would work. How about that? Sure it would cost alittle more but het we aren't dealing with S13s here these are "quality" cars... (No offense to the S13 I like those alot too but understand my point)..
#18
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Originally Posted by Tommyd1919
so basically what is being said is that for the most part with the wiring all that has to be done is the harness made the correct length and all the connectors just plug in? Sounds to easy to me... But maybe? So the SC300 dash and ecu plugs are the same as the Soarer dash and ECU plugs? Body side plugs?
I can tell you this for certain...chances are you are going to end up in this swap with the R154 which will require the tunnel o be notched out 3" to accomodate the shifter.
Be ready to do the driveline modification on the soarer/sc driveline yolk and center carrier bearing. (the r154 front half is a 23t x 1.2) If you dont have the yolk/front half you can get one made or look for one from the MK3 supra TURBO!!!! or later.
this swap requires quite a bit of wiring extension.....i strongly advise against chopping the ECU harness and only extending the plugs....many instances of messed up knock sensor inputs causing havoc on performance.
I feel that most of this info should be shared as most are being tight lipped. this was the same thing i did with RB20 swaps into s13's.....same thing happend with rb25's. I understand getting paid for work....but getting shafted from info sux. Feel free to contact me regarding info....id love to attend a meet of nothing but 1j powered cars
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#19
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Originally Posted by Tommyd1919
By the way I've always wondered why you couldn't use the US 2JZGTE harness, ECU, Injectors, etc... on a 1JZGTE.. This way you could just wire it up like the Supra TT swap and it would also be a fuel upgrade as well due to the 550cc Supra injectors VS. the 370cc Soarer injectors. The only down side would be the use of an air meter instead of a map sensor.. However this way all the factory stuff would work. How about that? Sure it would cost alittle more but het we aren't dealing with S13s here these are "quality" cars... (No offense to the S13 I like those alot too but understand my point)..
weve done quite a few swaps and a common view is to integrate certain harness between certain swaps...some work others dont.
the 2jz has differnet ecu plugs compared to the 1 jz.......so id rather chop 12 wires for injectors rather than 100+.
BTW....try and get a price for the harness then let me know how it felt to give up a kidney to get it
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#21
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I understand the tight lipped thing, but I do agree with this info need to be shared. I have zero doubt that I can do this swap. I've done prob. (30) RB20 and Sr20 swaps into all year 240s. I did a Rb25 in a 87 300ZX turbo recently. I have also completed every B series and H series swap into every Honda/Acura under the sun. Atleast 50 or so of that type swaps. I just did a RB26 into a 96 240.. We even man. our own swap mounts for the RB stuff so no hood mods are needed... I have a Dyno and a mandrel bender in house. I have actually been in import performance for about 12 years and have been in the swap business for about 10.. And wiring is my thing.. I have a clip coming in, in 4 weeks and when it gets here I am going to try this swap... And I will doc. everything and it will be shared in this community.. The reason I asked the question about everything plugs in is because it blows my mind that some shops charge $2000-$3000 to do the swap not including the parts. Also this was a no-no for a while everyone was screaming 2JZGTE (which I have for my car) .. Hummm I feel that all is about to change though...Keep us informed...Thanks TD
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Originally Posted by Tommyd1919
I think you are correct about the Soarer tranny not needing any mods, it has that shifter extension on the back if Im not mistaken...
I did alot of research on the mkiii r154 vs the soarer r154. If you get the soarer tranny they tranny itself shouldnt need mods but i am not sure if the tunnel will need to be pounded up a bit. Im not sure how it fits spatially.
The big difference between the 2 is that the mkiii tranny has its shifter mounted directly on top of the tranny while the soarer has an A-arm extension. The mkii tranny will locate the shifter conveniently in the headunit area so it could make driving a tad bit awkward. The big thing i want to find out is if you order the shifter assembly extension for a soarer if it can be mated to the mkiii tranny which would make getting one into our cars ALOT easier. All youll need would be the 1jz bellhousing(as if thats easy to find) and the shifter assembly. Custom drive shaft can be made in plenty of places but then the next challenge would come in the challenge of finding a useable rear end.
The big things holding me back from doing this are of course the cash, and also finding a compatible driveline to handle the power short of going getrag. Auto TT trannys and rear ends can be had for not too much but then...wheres the fun in that?
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I think ive said all there is to say for now.
-Ronald
#24
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Originally Posted by rscott
What might be a good little business endeavor that everyone would benefit from would be making a harness that would plug up to the 1jz and be already lengthened and spliced for the us spec sc. If youre interested in doing that, that would make the swap alot easier for us shade tree mechanics.
I think ive said all there is to say for now.
-Ronald
I think ive said all there is to say for now.
-Ronald
What if you have the W58 already installed? Does the 1J bolt up to these?
#25
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The stock 5 speed tranny fromthe SC would be enough to handle a somewhat stock 1jz.. However who would stay stock? Boost is a drug... I might consider making a harness. Let me see what all involved. I will let everyone know
yes the W58 tranny will bolt up to the 1JZ.. you will have to use a clutch and flywheel for the W58 and not the R154...If you use the W58 then the driveshaft and the rearend and all will work... However like stated above be careful because the power level for the w58 is lower that of the soarer and Supra turbo tranny.
yes the W58 tranny will bolt up to the 1JZ.. you will have to use a clutch and flywheel for the W58 and not the R154...If you use the W58 then the driveshaft and the rearend and all will work... However like stated above be careful because the power level for the w58 is lower that of the soarer and Supra turbo tranny.
#26
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If you have the W58, it will bolt directly up to the 1JZ engine.
Tommyd1919, it is nice to hear that you will be documenting everything you do and then sharing it with us all. I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say we will all appreciate it VERY much.
And yeah, that would be AWESOME if someone would learn how to do all the wiring perfectly and then sell the harnesses. I'd definately buy one.
Tommyd1919, it is nice to hear that you will be documenting everything you do and then sharing it with us all. I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say we will all appreciate it VERY much.
And yeah, that would be AWESOME if someone would learn how to do all the wiring perfectly and then sell the harnesses. I'd definately buy one.
#28
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Well for a guy like me that's after a reliable, hassle-free setup as a first priority, and power just a byproduct of that, a near stock 1JZ is right up my alley.
Up to now NA-T was my only feasible option for hassle-free reliability. I was planning on using my stock tranny and only looking at maybe 8psi intercooled.
A 1JZ that I can swap in with a plug and play harness is definitely a strong contender against the NA-T. 300hp or so at the wheels is all I need. Trust me, boost is addictive, but not to me. I ran only 10psi on my last turbo car because I knew that was its (very conservative) limit. In 3 years, I never once raised the boost or had any desire to. I set it where it's best and that's it.
The same will apply here.
Up to now NA-T was my only feasible option for hassle-free reliability. I was planning on using my stock tranny and only looking at maybe 8psi intercooled.
A 1JZ that I can swap in with a plug and play harness is definitely a strong contender against the NA-T. 300hp or so at the wheels is all I need. Trust me, boost is addictive, but not to me. I ran only 10psi on my last turbo car because I knew that was its (very conservative) limit. In 3 years, I never once raised the boost or had any desire to. I set it where it's best and that's it.
The same will apply here.
#29
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i know that extending the harness is a pain but its not that bad guys. it will take a couple of hours and if you know how to solder then there's no problem.if you cut and extended only one wire at a time like we did a rookie could do it. please dont be discouraged i would love to see more 1jz in sc's. i think there is approx 100 wires give or take a few. as far as the tranny i have my stock w58 with a 6 puck clutch pushing out over 300 horsepower and it still works fine. it might be a different ballgame with 500+ but thats the beauty of pioneering. you do not know until you try. ive heard of trannys popping at 350 and ive heard na-t guys that have 500 on theres.unless your made out of money the getrag 6 speed is out of the question.well gotta go ill try to post up some more info later.
#30
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Honestly, i dont know the difference between the MKIII r154 bellhousings and the Soarer R154 bellhousings, but there were two different types of shifters on the 1JZ Soarer MTs. The earlier models had the shifter mounted directly on top of the back of the trans and the later models had the A-arm. The reason that the Soarer shifter isnt right on the radio(since the shifter is in the same location as on the MKIII) is because the Soarer used a different shifter. The MKIII shifter is angled a bit back and the Soarer shifter has a dog leg that brings it back alot more. Once Toyota moved to the A-arm extension they got rid of the dog-leg and went to a straight shifter.