soarer 1jzgte swap guide
#31
OK......Bout the tranny.
I am telling you guys you WILL need to mod the area where the shifter comes throught the tunnel on the R154. If you care to see pics NP.
the difference is about 3 inches added length to the tranny and an odd configuration of the shifter mechanism.
the R154 is a stranger tranny than the w58.
the W58 though i have to say i like it as it doesnt deal with removal and need to drop retaining bolts on the clutch FW assembly like the R154.
the tranny mounts differ from the 2 models. the r154 meets the holes fine but has a swept back design. the w58 is straight accross.
i like the w 58 shifter design though. you can pour the tranny fluid in throught the shifter and you dont have to struggle in putting in a Short shifter like on the R154.
The wiring(Soarer to SC)
Yesterday i spent about 5 hours decyphering wiring and think i got it all down. Now guys FYI im in the MIDDLE OF THE VVTI swap. so my info may differ than most. I will tell you this though....those with TEMS, TRC, 1U will have a bit more fun with wiring, as will those converting from auto to manual. I do agree its not that hard on the wiring but then again i just did the hard part with decyphering. Grab a beer and try not to solder your hands....LOL.
OK.......now there are diferences between the plugs that link up to the fuse box.....BE aware of that. the VVTI has one more wire than the USDM 2J on the lower plug. the upper plug has a white wire...i believe completes the charging circuit. the PS harnes need to be extended to the driver side rack input. Im looking at the EGT and stuff like that as locations differ a bit.
The VVTI has 2 computers....vice the 2J. one controls the main and the other is throttle.
you cannot(well you can) interchange harnesses between 1 j and 2j.....its a pain and pointless.
Total install time so far....10 hours. total drinking time= 8 hours
headache from being the only one i know who has done this(VVTI) to my damn SC endless.
Let me add...1j and 2j are pratcially the same care to find out more or need help(those of you with the tach problem) call me 360-981-0918
I am telling you guys you WILL need to mod the area where the shifter comes throught the tunnel on the R154. If you care to see pics NP.
the difference is about 3 inches added length to the tranny and an odd configuration of the shifter mechanism.
the R154 is a stranger tranny than the w58.
the W58 though i have to say i like it as it doesnt deal with removal and need to drop retaining bolts on the clutch FW assembly like the R154.
the tranny mounts differ from the 2 models. the r154 meets the holes fine but has a swept back design. the w58 is straight accross.
i like the w 58 shifter design though. you can pour the tranny fluid in throught the shifter and you dont have to struggle in putting in a Short shifter like on the R154.
The wiring(Soarer to SC)
Yesterday i spent about 5 hours decyphering wiring and think i got it all down. Now guys FYI im in the MIDDLE OF THE VVTI swap. so my info may differ than most. I will tell you this though....those with TEMS, TRC, 1U will have a bit more fun with wiring, as will those converting from auto to manual. I do agree its not that hard on the wiring but then again i just did the hard part with decyphering. Grab a beer and try not to solder your hands....LOL.
OK.......now there are diferences between the plugs that link up to the fuse box.....BE aware of that. the VVTI has one more wire than the USDM 2J on the lower plug. the upper plug has a white wire...i believe completes the charging circuit. the PS harnes need to be extended to the driver side rack input. Im looking at the EGT and stuff like that as locations differ a bit.
The VVTI has 2 computers....vice the 2J. one controls the main and the other is throttle.
you cannot(well you can) interchange harnesses between 1 j and 2j.....its a pain and pointless.
Total install time so far....10 hours. total drinking time= 8 hours
headache from being the only one i know who has done this(VVTI) to my damn SC endless.
Let me add...1j and 2j are pratcially the same care to find out more or need help(those of you with the tach problem) call me 360-981-0918
#33
Originally Posted by Tommyd1919
Does anyone know if the 1JZ bottom end is as strong or "about" as strong as the 2JZGTE one. I know the 2JZ has healthy rods and pistons.. How about the 1JZ?
MUAHAHAHAHAHHA
BTW WIRING WORKED OUT. Thanks to all who contributed.....too bad i left the damn batt terminal on and drained my batt win some lose some.
#37
Hmm I can pick up a Soarer R154 tomaroow for 700 bucks(I can prolly haggle down). Any reccomend doing this as it may be less hassle than an MK3 with 1jz bellhousing. Then alter length of r154 drive shaft then search for a r154 rear. MK3 trans and 1jz bellhousing would run me prolly 200 cheaper. Any other modifications should I do when doing this. I need to no since im going single and will blow w58 pices. I will document as well.
There was a 1jz built bottom end in Jersey (in a mk3) I recently found out that made over 1000hp before blowing due to I believe a fuel pump failure and blew up. (Heard this at 2am so dont really recall). 1jz bottom end has been proven several times to hold around 700whp.
There was a 1jz built bottom end in Jersey (in a mk3) I recently found out that made over 1000hp before blowing due to I believe a fuel pump failure and blew up. (Heard this at 2am so dont really recall). 1jz bottom end has been proven several times to hold around 700whp.
#44
from what i'm reading, you need the 1jz ECU and harness as well, you dont use the 2jz stuff... in fact i think thats not possible since the 1jz uses speed density metering vs the 2jz-ge's Karman Vortex
interesting swap idea guys.... you can tell i havent been around in a while
where are you guys getting the clips from? venus auto? jarco?
interesting swap idea guys.... you can tell i havent been around in a while
where are you guys getting the clips from? venus auto? jarco?
#45
Originally Posted by SCdrifter
all the clips plug up.a couple of other things
1.the coolant temp gauge pegs hot. there is a wire off the stock wiring that you have to cut and ground. if you look at the clips inside the car by the ecu not on it you should see one wire going in the back side and nothing coming out of the other.just cut it and groung anywhere available.
2. the rpm gauge also doesnt work im still trying to figure that one out i have a number to a guy that knows how to fix the problem.ill post up as soon as i get in touch with him.
3.check engine light doesnt work either.still working on that one.unfortunatly every time i want to check my check engine light i have to put the soarer digital gauge cluster in.
ill keep you updated and again i dont know if its only because my car is 5-speed and maybe the wiring harness differs somehow.
1.the coolant temp gauge pegs hot. there is a wire off the stock wiring that you have to cut and ground. if you look at the clips inside the car by the ecu not on it you should see one wire going in the back side and nothing coming out of the other.just cut it and groung anywhere available.
2. the rpm gauge also doesnt work im still trying to figure that one out i have a number to a guy that knows how to fix the problem.ill post up as soon as i get in touch with him.
3.check engine light doesnt work either.still working on that one.unfortunatly every time i want to check my check engine light i have to put the soarer digital gauge cluster in.
ill keep you updated and again i dont know if its only because my car is 5-speed and maybe the wiring harness differs somehow.