Seafoam experts, check in here.
05-09-07, 07:04 AM
#91
Putting it in the gastank makes it more like a fuel injector/fuel treatment cleaner etc. It doesnt really matter to get it all out at once, but im sure it wouldnt hurt
Putting it in the oil cleans the crank case, but you need to change oil VERY soon after that.
Putting it in through the vacuum lines (ie. brake booster is the best) will make the car smoke and clean out all the carbon build up. also the most fun!
Putting it in the oil cleans the crank case, but you need to change oil VERY soon after that.
Putting it in through the vacuum lines (ie. brake booster is the best) will make the car smoke and clean out all the carbon build up. also the most fun!
05-09-07, 03:48 PM
#92
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Putting it in the gastank makes it more like a fuel injector/fuel treatment cleaner etc. It doesnt really matter to get it all out at once, but im sure it wouldnt hurt
Putting it in the oil cleans the crank case, but you need to change oil VERY soon after that.
Putting it in through the vacuum lines (ie. brake booster is the best) will make the car smoke and clean out all the carbon build up. also the most fun!
Putting it in the oil cleans the crank case, but you need to change oil VERY soon after that.
Putting it in through the vacuum lines (ie. brake booster is the best) will make the car smoke and clean out all the carbon build up. also the most fun!
05-15-07, 08:04 AM
#93
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Finally did it.
I just got around to Seafoaming the "Break Booster" way. It took a little courage and a big open area.
I did this with a person in the car hand at the key, ready to power down the car.
To identify the break booster line, you look to the back of the car, to the right is the master cylinder. alond to the left running along the firewall is a 2 piece plastic pipe, this is the line you want. pull out the left end, in the middle is some connector unit. The line runs about 1 foot into a solid metal line then into the manifold.
Filling a disposable plastic container with 1/3 the seafoam bottle, I got right to work on letting it suck into the running engine. To avoid hydrolock do it semi slow, and dont let it stall the car. It'll take less than a minute still to suck all the liquid out.
As soon as the liquid is gone, kill the engine. Stand around and chat for 5-10 minutes. Start the car.
I let it idle and only got little poofs of barely visible smoke. I had thought I did something wrong. Even with some revving barely a h int of smoke shot out.
About 1-2 minutes into the start up the smoke came, and it came strong and hard. giant clouds of it wafted into the street, what a sight it was. I let the car rev at about 3-4k RPM and juiced it to redline every 15-20 seconds.
The smoke took about 10 minutes to stop pouring out. My brother says the car was noticably better sounding. I noticed a nice change in attitude. The car was quieter. smoother, and all around better feeling. Shifting was smoother for some reason.
In all I'll rate this at a 9 out of ten for cheap ways to clean and improve the car performance. Today the oil is being changed out to rid the carbon deposits.
This is a '98 sc400 with 80k miles on it. It may be old, but it's still young at heart.
I did this with a person in the car hand at the key, ready to power down the car.
To identify the break booster line, you look to the back of the car, to the right is the master cylinder. alond to the left running along the firewall is a 2 piece plastic pipe, this is the line you want. pull out the left end, in the middle is some connector unit. The line runs about 1 foot into a solid metal line then into the manifold.
Filling a disposable plastic container with 1/3 the seafoam bottle, I got right to work on letting it suck into the running engine. To avoid hydrolock do it semi slow, and dont let it stall the car. It'll take less than a minute still to suck all the liquid out.
As soon as the liquid is gone, kill the engine. Stand around and chat for 5-10 minutes. Start the car.
I let it idle and only got little poofs of barely visible smoke. I had thought I did something wrong. Even with some revving barely a h int of smoke shot out.
About 1-2 minutes into the start up the smoke came, and it came strong and hard. giant clouds of it wafted into the street, what a sight it was. I let the car rev at about 3-4k RPM and juiced it to redline every 15-20 seconds.
The smoke took about 10 minutes to stop pouring out. My brother says the car was noticably better sounding. I noticed a nice change in attitude. The car was quieter. smoother, and all around better feeling. Shifting was smoother for some reason.
In all I'll rate this at a 9 out of ten for cheap ways to clean and improve the car performance. Today the oil is being changed out to rid the carbon deposits.
This is a '98 sc400 with 80k miles on it. It may be old, but it's still young at heart.
05-23-07, 12:32 PM
#94
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I did 1 full can into my gas tank, and 60% of a can into my intake mani. Car smoked white and stalled once or twice. I did the IV drop method, and that seemed to work very good.
I didnt change the plugs or oil yet, as the car feels perfect after. It feels a little better too.
Ill probably put the remaining bottle into the oil before changing it this weekend.
This was in my 2JZGTE.
I didnt change the plugs or oil yet, as the car feels perfect after. It feels a little better too.
Ill probably put the remaining bottle into the oil before changing it this weekend.
This was in my 2JZGTE.
05-27-07, 08:43 PM
#96
Hey all,
Just so you know, I have seen a rod go through a block more than once by using a top engine cleaner on a Toyota (through vaccum).
A similar product is used at most dealers. DO NOT JUST DUMP IT IN.
The best way is through the shortest route to vaccum possible, and use a tool that will atomize the liquid as it goes into the engine.
Also have seen it burn one cat on an older 4-runner. Took me a day and a half to figure out why the thing had no power.
Just my opinion.
BTW Toyota tech
Just so you know, I have seen a rod go through a block more than once by using a top engine cleaner on a Toyota (through vaccum).
A similar product is used at most dealers. DO NOT JUST DUMP IT IN.
The best way is through the shortest route to vaccum possible, and use a tool that will atomize the liquid as it goes into the engine.
Also have seen it burn one cat on an older 4-runner. Took me a day and a half to figure out why the thing had no power.
Just my opinion.
BTW Toyota tech
05-29-07, 12:58 PM
#98
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bringing back the dead :]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hrasAYG42g
no one did a video.. soo i decided to make a video and share it :]
a DIY i guess?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hrasAYG42g
no one did a video.. soo i decided to make a video and share it :]
a DIY i guess?
thanks
05-31-07, 10:30 AM
#100
Lead Lap
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Sea Foam MY BUTT!
Guys,
A long while ago I bought a Toy Cressida with 116K miles on it. To be nice to my new "steed", I treated her to a fresh change of all fluids and, to be extra cool, additives in all resovoirs. Marvels is my choice for oil and gas but the trans I have never done cause this was my first auto. The clerk said "seafoam" is the best for the trans. I put that stuff in my trans and the poor thing went NUTS a few days later. I mean the trans went insane. I grieved for the loss of a grand($) that I was certain would show up in my bank statement in a short while. My mech was sympathetic but asked " why did you dump anything in the auto". He and I relate and I just wined some senseless answer that made him cough. He drained my tx and the thing recovered a few weeks later and was back to the spectacular Toy performance in a couple of months.
Seafoam! You do and you'll clean it up!
My 2 cents
John
A long while ago I bought a Toy Cressida with 116K miles on it. To be nice to my new "steed", I treated her to a fresh change of all fluids and, to be extra cool, additives in all resovoirs. Marvels is my choice for oil and gas but the trans I have never done cause this was my first auto. The clerk said "seafoam" is the best for the trans. I put that stuff in my trans and the poor thing went NUTS a few days later. I mean the trans went insane. I grieved for the loss of a grand($) that I was certain would show up in my bank statement in a short while. My mech was sympathetic but asked " why did you dump anything in the auto". He and I relate and I just wined some senseless answer that made him cough. He drained my tx and the thing recovered a few weeks later and was back to the spectacular Toy performance in a couple of months.
Seafoam! You do and you'll clean it up!
My 2 cents
John
07-05-07, 12:28 AM
#102
I just have used seafoam for my sc300. The way that I did it was that i put 1/2 of it in the oil (to the block), 1 in the gas tank, and 1/2 to the fuel injectors. I also did youtube.com research to find out how to seafoam. After hours of research, I finally did it... I have check engine light on and funny thing is that now it is gone... I let it soak in about 10 min... It is more like 2 persons job than one alone, at least thru my exprience... it can be done by one person alone but way easier if done by two. I drove the car around about 20 min after fuel injector cleaning and add 1 bottom of seafoam into gas tank with fill up and then went to do oil change. right in front of the shop, I added it in oil, and then wait 10 mins... and did an oil change... my oil wasn't bad at all somehow... I just had it done last week... I am very satisfied with it...
09-14-07, 07:04 PM
#103
Your first mistake is believing the minimum wage clerk who doesn't know a transmission from his own ***.
Corrected.
They make a product specifically for the trans fluid. Also, why would you want to clean the auto tranny? Auto trans fluid itself can be used as a cleaner. Ever seen the inside of a running auto tranny? It's spotless. And on an old car where the seals can be DAMAGED by a trans fluid change, you should never put in seafoam. Seafoam is for engine ONLY.
Corrected.
They make a product specifically for the trans fluid. Also, why would you want to clean the auto tranny? Auto trans fluid itself can be used as a cleaner. Ever seen the inside of a running auto tranny? It's spotless. And on an old car where the seals can be DAMAGED by a trans fluid change, you should never put in seafoam. Seafoam is for engine ONLY.
