High PSI

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking about moving my battery to the trunk for better cornering balance, weight transfer to the rear wheel(s) during accceleration, and traction in the winter. My Lex isn't my drag car, but I'll probably take it to the track a few times over the life of the car just to see what it runs. I just want to be sure that I don't fail tech because it doesn't have the proper disconnect or isn't in the right vented/unvented box.

What has to be done to mount the battery in the trunk if it's a standard unit? What if it's an Optima?

got_trd

I wouldnt move it to the trunk inless it was in the way of my intercooler pipe routing. In my case, that will probably happen when I upgrade to a front mount.

High PSI

iTrader: (1)

Why not? Don't want to lose the trunk space?

SC400TT

iTrader: (4)

Why would you move it for a few pounds? Too much trouble, and too little benefit. I would only move it , (I am moving mine as I write), if it were in the way of my turbo, or piping.

Ryan

High PSI

iTrader: (1)

A few pounds? On a car like the SC, where the battery is so far forward that it's actually in front of the wheels, it'll affect your weight transfer by about 1%, (i.e., instead of a 56%front, 44% rear weight balance, you'll have 55% Front, 45% rear) which is significant enough that you'll feel it, in handling and when launching. People spend a lot of money slapping on sway bars, shocks, and springs, and assume that it'll make there car handle like a supercar. Suspension, just like a forced induction setup, has to be properly tuned to make the most out of the parts you're using. Trying to improve the balance of the car is part of this.

For the marginal time and money involved in the project, seems to me like a no brainer , unless you really didn't want to lose the trunk space.

SupraCoup3

dont' forget that typical dry cell batteries like the optima are no lightweights, and that the wiring to traipse the battery all the way to the trunk weighs a decent amount too.

better off with a 13.5 Lbs. Hawker 680 or something. It's small so maybe it'll fit where the charcoal canister is, once the canister is removed -- and that'll be moving it to the passenger side too.

reamemiya

iTrader: (1)

did a quick skim.

1) battery will not get in the intercooler pipes way unless you do some retarded *** custom pipe (or somethign smart that no ones has tried before, but it would only create more lag with that length)

2) batteries are freaking heavy, but not sure that it'll really be worth the effort.

goodluck though and tell us if you find a cheap and efficient way to do it.

got_trd

Do you know the SC's weight distribution to begin with? I would just get an odyssey battery

reamemiya

iTrader: (1)

are you asking me?

thought it was 53/47 or somewhere near there.

and if you're drag racing...i don't see the point...maybe if you were on the curcuit or even trying to autoX then maybe.

bean_8044

I used a 30degree and 120degree bend pipes to install the R34 FMIC on my car and thats about the straightest that its going to get. Having short pipes is nice, but when you put in all of the crazy turns that it takes it will do more damage than good. My boost came on around 2500 before the FMIC, and after it stayed exactly the same. I did have to move the battery to the trunk also but i wasnt concerned about the 2lbs of wire that it took. Especially since that "extra weight" would be spread along the entire length of the car

Kylestt

If you mount it in the rear and take it to the track, if they are an NHRA track i think you have to have a kill switch on it. Might want to check in on that.

sc300ccret

Here is a pic of my retarded pipe. 4 inch pipe and VWR manifold says battery goes bye bye.



another shot

5spdSC300

iTrader: (1)

OT but damn that engine bay looks pretty!!! especially it being a 97 RSP