DIY: A/C compressor removal and installation
#31
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Getting back to the original subject of this thread, I tackled this job today and don't really have much to add to Brian's steps.
I agree saving the bottom bolt for last- it's easier to remove that one and the front one, but if you remove those first, the weight of the compressor (15 pounds, but it will feel twice as heavy sometimes) rests on the rear bolt and it becomes much harder to spin out. As FloridaSC notes, it's very tight back there, but with the right combination of sockets and extensions, it can be done.
I did not find it necessary to remove the oil filter- with a long socket extension, I had a straight shot to the lower bolt.
Putting it back on isn't easy without some help holding the compressor in the right position while you guide the lower bolt in, making sure that z-bracket catches its stud bolt. Maybe with the oil filter out of the way, it's easier, but I had a helper hold the compressor from the top and I managed to get the bolt in.
That z-bracket is easy to lose and complicates the reinstall so I'm betting it's missing from some 1UZ-FEs that have had a lot of compressor work done!
I agree saving the bottom bolt for last- it's easier to remove that one and the front one, but if you remove those first, the weight of the compressor (15 pounds, but it will feel twice as heavy sometimes) rests on the rear bolt and it becomes much harder to spin out. As FloridaSC notes, it's very tight back there, but with the right combination of sockets and extensions, it can be done.
I did not find it necessary to remove the oil filter- with a long socket extension, I had a straight shot to the lower bolt.
Putting it back on isn't easy without some help holding the compressor in the right position while you guide the lower bolt in, making sure that z-bracket catches its stud bolt. Maybe with the oil filter out of the way, it's easier, but I had a helper hold the compressor from the top and I managed to get the bolt in.
That z-bracket is easy to lose and complicates the reinstall so I'm betting it's missing from some 1UZ-FEs that have had a lot of compressor work done!
#34
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Sometimes it is wise to search for Denso part #numbers when looking for a new compressor & not a rebuilt. SC400's use a 10PA20C , correct?
471-1219 or 471-1162 is a correct Denso part # for my 94 LS. I prefer to be more precise than this but Denso has removed compressors from their "drop-down" list at their site despite the fact that they are readily availble for sale.
I also use BG Frigi-Quiet II for compressor lubrication.
471-1219 or 471-1162 is a correct Denso part # for my 94 LS. I prefer to be more precise than this but Denso has removed compressors from their "drop-down" list at their site despite the fact that they are readily availble for sale.
I also use BG Frigi-Quiet II for compressor lubrication.
Last edited by damon; 09-02-09 at 05:02 PM.
#35
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My compressor just died - 1995 SC 300 - I have someone who can replace, but where is the best place to get one? Do they make 'rebuilt' - Yes, female...my car has served me well, but major things are starting to go, if there is a recommended place to get parts, please advise. I can't bear to part with her yet, so any suggestions helpful!! THANKS!!
p.s. the description of the DIY removal and install is so good, I think even I could do it!!! Great work!
p.s. the description of the DIY removal and install is so good, I think even I could do it!!! Great work!
#36
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That depends upon what you mean by "best".
New and rebuilt compressors can be had at dealerships and most parts stores (smaller stores will have to order them) and online through eBay, rockauto, irontoad and carsontoyota.
Search on those keywords for more details.
Used sources are tapRecycling, ClubLexus classified ads, CraigsList and local junkyards.
New and rebuilt compressors can be had at dealerships and most parts stores (smaller stores will have to order them) and online through eBay, rockauto, irontoad and carsontoyota.
Search on those keywords for more details.
Used sources are tapRecycling, ClubLexus classified ads, CraigsList and local junkyards.
#37
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I just replaced my compressor/ drier / condensor for about $750. I did a full flush, new o-rings on replaced components, vaccuum and r134 fill. It was not bad at all. It only took me half a day (Most of it was going to part store to part store because I couldnt find the correct comp oil to put in my condenser) I would NEVER pay to have my AC fixed again. It was such a rip off for the amount of work involved. I literally took out 3 bolts on the compressor, 3 on the air box, 1 on the air duct, 2 on the radiator clamps, 2 on the condesor and 4 on the valves. I cannot believe they wanted to charge me $2200. In short, just trying to say its not bad at all and if anyone has any questions on it message me. Save some $$$.
#38
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dcz...my 93 SC400's compressor is leaking and needs replaced. I was thinking of doing it myself, because as you state, it saves $. However, someone referred me to a local shop who they say is honest and does good work. I stopped by and their quote for the following services is $650.00:
1) Install new compressor;
2) new o-rings throughout a/c system;
3) install new drier;
4) clean condensor;
5) evacuate & refill with R134a
Does this sound reasonable?
Thanks,
-Kevin
1) Install new compressor;
2) new o-rings throughout a/c system;
3) install new drier;
4) clean condensor;
5) evacuate & refill with R134a
Does this sound reasonable?
Thanks,
-Kevin
#41
Instructor
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are 92 SC4 and 92 LS 4 ac compressor interchange able?? i just bought a SC4 compressor but on the box it was label LS400....
interchangeable?
only difference i can see is that the plug to the main harness on the SC is on the side of the compresson where the LS plug is in the rear.
interchangeable?
only difference i can see is that the plug to the main harness on the SC is on the side of the compresson where the LS plug is in the rear.
#42
Lexus Test Driver
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Step #1 Have a professional flush/drain the A/C system before you crack open any lines and get a BLAST of R12 or R134 in your face and get frostbit everywhere. You could also die.
So step #1 Remove all freon and don't be an idiot and try to let it slow drain into the atmosphere cause it's dangerous.
So step #1 Remove all freon and don't be an idiot and try to let it slow drain into the atmosphere cause it's dangerous.
#43
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dcz...my 93 SC400's compressor is leaking and needs replaced. I was thinking of doing it myself, because as you state, it saves $. However, someone referred me to a local shop who they say is honest and does good work. I stopped by and their quote for the following services is $650.00:
1) Install new compressor;
2) new o-rings throughout a/c system;
3) install new drier;
4) clean condensor;
5) evacuate & refill with R134a
Does this sound reasonable?
Thanks,
-Kevin
1) Install new compressor;
2) new o-rings throughout a/c system;
3) install new drier;
4) clean condensor;
5) evacuate & refill with R134a
Does this sound reasonable?
Thanks,
-Kevin
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#45
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I need help/hints putting the compressor back.
I just can not get the bolt (nearest to driver) to bite the threads.
This is what I have done:
Removed the oil filter.
1st try [based on Perry's suggestion]
Installed the bottom bolt (tighten partially ... not torqued to spec).
Tried and tried till my fingers are sore to get the 2nd bolt (nearest to driver).
2nd try
Kept the the bottom bolt installed
Installed the top (front bolt) --- hand tight
Tried the second bolt ... feels like improved alignment but still the threads wont bite.
I envy the posts that say they got it done in mins ... guys I am in hours working on this. Is there any trick like tighten halfway. Pop open a service cover etc.
For the curious: I got into this situation replacing the timing belt. Every thing is back in place except the A/C compressor. & I still need to drain the coolant from the engine block ... I spotted a good access point after I remove the driver side wheel.
Salim
I just can not get the bolt (nearest to driver) to bite the threads.
This is what I have done:
Removed the oil filter.
1st try [based on Perry's suggestion]
Installed the bottom bolt (tighten partially ... not torqued to spec).
Tried and tried till my fingers are sore to get the 2nd bolt (nearest to driver).
2nd try
Kept the the bottom bolt installed
Installed the top (front bolt) --- hand tight
Tried the second bolt ... feels like improved alignment but still the threads wont bite.
I envy the posts that say they got it done in mins ... guys I am in hours working on this. Is there any trick like tighten halfway. Pop open a service cover etc.
For the curious: I got into this situation replacing the timing belt. Every thing is back in place except the A/C compressor. & I still need to drain the coolant from the engine block ... I spotted a good access point after I remove the driver side wheel.
Salim