O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

You just have to lift the compressor up a little. It sags past the bolt even if the other bolts are in place.

PS- It's really a PITA to work with that bolt unless you have a ratcheting closed end.

Here's some really open pics of where you are aiming https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...et-to-see.html

salimshah

Finally sweat success!

The combination that worked for me was to remove the bottom bolt and install the front top bolt 3/4 of the way. Then wiggle/jiggle and get the top back bolt going. Then force the bottom bolt ... the good thing is you can see the misalignment from below and coax the compressor into position. I know my method is counter to what Perry stated earlier and I stumbled into mine by going through all combinations.



Remove the oil filter ... great advice Perry.

Here are the tools that made it possible:
14 mm socket with long extension. You can access both the front bolts from below.
[I used 14 mm ratcheting box end ..cheap one from HarborFreight ... use for ratcheting action. I used it inverted (offset the other way) and work from the top on the top bolt]. For breaking or final torquing I accessed the bolt from below.
1/2" short handle ratchet and 14mm socket is the only tool that I could operate with for top back bolt. Cant get a torque wrench on this one. So I guessed it.


Salim

Biddles

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I needed this today. Couldn't find it on any timing belt tutorials, and was wondering what was preventing the hydraulic pump from coming off. In the pdf service manual I have it just says "Disconnect AC Compressor" and doesn't show any info on it. But proceeds to show everything on the hydraulic pump. Damn this timing belt is a big job!

dricacho

The AC compressor on my SC4 is done. I took my car to a friend's mechanic whom he trusts and I was quoted $1300, parts and labor. This is with a new (not rebuilt nor remanned) AC compressor, receiver/dryer, and evaporator. He's not sure if the evaporator will need replacing but will find out once the system is open. Reading this DIY, it looks straight forward enough for me to try. How can I tell if the evaporator will need replacing? Also, I've been googling and found a Denso AC compressor at Auto Parts Warehouse for $383.08 . Is this compressor good enough?

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Denso is OEM. Rock Auto has one listed as new for around $300. I assume it's rebuilt and they have it mis-listed, but they assured me that it's new if it doesn't say otherwise. My spare ended up working so I didn't have cause to test the claim. A Denso receiver drier is only $20 shipped from them. I don't know about the evaporator cost.

Labor shouldn't be more than two hours, I wouldn't think. The receiver drier is easy to get out with the driver's headlight removed, and the compressor is relatively easy to do other than the annoyance of lining up the bolts. I did mine without removing the oil filter. If the shop charges you more than $150-200 for labor (plus evap/recharge), go elsewhere. You should be well under half their quote, although they may have been basing it on a much higher average cost for new compressors.

dricacho

The mechanic was basing his price on his computer software which showed labor time. Then i guess the software told him that there's more labor involved because of TRAC. I laughed and pointed to him where TRAC is located and it's connection. Why would TRAC affect the amount of time it would take to remove and reinstall the compressor was beyond me. He told me he can get a new compressor for $400, not sure if it is Denso or not.

I'm going to research more on how to tell if the evaporator needs replacement. Meanwhile I'm going to order parts.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

The only way I could see TRAC maybe having an effect is if you're replacing the A/C hard lines, but you wouldn't do that unless you had a really good reason to.

For mine, I took out the driver's headlight and loosened all the receiver drier fasteners, then took it in along with the spare compressor installed so the shop could install the new receiver drier right before sealing it up, doing a pressure test, and then full evac/recharge. Doing it that way, a) the new receiver drier wasn't exposed to atmosphere for more than a few seconds, and b) there was virtually no extra work for them so they didn't charge me labor for that part.

dricacho

What entails sealing up the AC system? I thought that once the new compressor and receiver/dryer is installed, the system is sealed up once again.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I asked the shop if putting the new receiver drier in without simultaneously doing an evac to remove the air would damage it by exposure to the air in the system and they said yes it could, and it would be best to do that all at once. They didn't prompt me with that information or how much I would be charged either way, so they had no vested interest in the answer.