timing belt replacement on SC300
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I was installing the connector pipe (in a 18th attempt to fix the hesitation, and egr problems.) And since I had removed the TB and Y shaped connector I figured I check how spark plugs look... (one was broken! nice! I dont remember even applying any force when it came out loose im really short on money so I used an autolite till I get a real spark plug next week or so.)
And I look at my timing belt.... its threading itself away .. My car is at 107k and the belt has not been replaced.
And I dont want to pay a ridicoulous amount of money to do it., (dealer prices and or shop prices fall into the ridicoulous category.) My question is has anyone here ever replaced a belt for the SC300? What type of labor am I looking into? Can an amateur like me do it within a weekend (took me 8 hours to replace the y shaped intake pipe and get all the little nooks and crannies back where they belong, and clean the throttle body up a little bit.) And I know I can get a oem one for 27 bucks or so...
Who has done it? any write ups specifically for a 2jz-ge car? So far my searches have found only one for an LS400.. Tools? I dont have much tools. And even my searches here is all about people who take it to the shop.... not very helpful...
Paying a ridicoulous amount of cash on labor fee is NOT an option! If a must spend money i rather spend less money on getting necessary tools and get a needed learning experience then to just litterally flush down my hard earn money into someone elses pockets in labor fees.
And I look at my timing belt.... its threading itself away .. My car is at 107k and the belt has not been replaced.
And I dont want to pay a ridicoulous amount of money to do it., (dealer prices and or shop prices fall into the ridicoulous category.) My question is has anyone here ever replaced a belt for the SC300? What type of labor am I looking into? Can an amateur like me do it within a weekend (took me 8 hours to replace the y shaped intake pipe and get all the little nooks and crannies back where they belong, and clean the throttle body up a little bit.) And I know I can get a oem one for 27 bucks or so...
Who has done it? any write ups specifically for a 2jz-ge car? So far my searches have found only one for an LS400.. Tools? I dont have much tools. And even my searches here is all about people who take it to the shop.... not very helpful...
Paying a ridicoulous amount of cash on labor fee is NOT an option! If a must spend money i rather spend less money on getting necessary tools and get a needed learning experience then to just litterally flush down my hard earn money into someone elses pockets in labor fees.
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its a straightforward job, do a search on supraforums for a write up
here are some steps/tips:
use the starter to get the crankshaft pulley loose
get a pulley remover
remove the tensioner
remove the clutch fan
make sure cylinder 1 is at tdc
make sure the cam gears are at 12:00 o clock
make sure the cranshaft gear is lined up with the mark
install the belt
install the tensioner
your almost done.
here are some steps/tips:
use the starter to get the crankshaft pulley loose
get a pulley remover
remove the tensioner
remove the clutch fan
make sure cylinder 1 is at tdc
make sure the cam gears are at 12:00 o clock
make sure the cranshaft gear is lined up with the mark
install the belt
install the tensioner
your almost done.
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NOT to discourage you or anything, but you should seek a competent repair facility to do this work. You obviously want it done right, and you admit that you have limited tools and even less experience.
If you attempt this repair and get it out of time, you may possibly bend your valves and damage your car. Then where will you be?
IF YOU MUST DO THIS, please get a GOOD manual, study the topic thoroughly, and decide if you really want to do this.
You really SHOULD have air tools to help in the repair evolution. I assure you that every reputable mechanic you take the car to will have them. Turning by hand and not having torque wrenches and specs is a recipe for disaster.
The vehicle you drive is a quality piece of machinery that DESERVES the proper service procedures in order for it to remain operating at peak performance.
There are MANY quality aftermarket lexus specific repair shops that do great work for less than the dealereship. Please use quality parts...preferably factory parts that last longest and perform best.
I don't like sounding like a nag or worry wart, but you DID ask for opinions.
If you attempt this repair and get it out of time, you may possibly bend your valves and damage your car. Then where will you be?
IF YOU MUST DO THIS, please get a GOOD manual, study the topic thoroughly, and decide if you really want to do this.
You really SHOULD have air tools to help in the repair evolution. I assure you that every reputable mechanic you take the car to will have them. Turning by hand and not having torque wrenches and specs is a recipe for disaster.
The vehicle you drive is a quality piece of machinery that DESERVES the proper service procedures in order for it to remain operating at peak performance.
There are MANY quality aftermarket lexus specific repair shops that do great work for less than the dealereship. Please use quality parts...preferably factory parts that last longest and perform best.
I don't like sounding like a nag or worry wart, but you DID ask for opinions.
Last edited by gserep1; 07-17-05 at 06:57 AM.
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Air tools are NOT required but they really do help. I will stand by my statement that they really should be used, but it is a personal matter. By the way, HOW do you expect to tighten the bolt on the crankshaft dampener without one? Using the engine to take it OFF is an old trick. Even I used it when I did my GS4, but your bolt will come loose if it is not torqued back down. It is hard enough to do it WITH the tools, and a real bear to do it without. If you like doing it without the benefit of air tools, by all means be my guest.
Plus busting knuckles is not my cup of tea. After years of doing it the hard way, I like doing it quicker. Of course anything can be misused, including the use of air tools. Different sized air tools for different sized nuts and bolts. I have all the sizes, and an air compressor in my garage.
I was just making a comment, not begining an argument on the merits/ demerits of using air tools.
Have a nice day!
Plus busting knuckles is not my cup of tea. After years of doing it the hard way, I like doing it quicker. Of course anything can be misused, including the use of air tools. Different sized air tools for different sized nuts and bolts. I have all the sizes, and an air compressor in my garage.
I was just making a comment, not begining an argument on the merits/ demerits of using air tools.
Have a nice day!
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I just changed my timing belt and water pump and it is not for the timid. It was the first timing belt I changed. If you are willing to try it, do your homework and get some tools. All the questions I had were answered by searching here. You will not need air tools but you will need a good socket set with extensions and a BIG 1/2 inch drive breaker bar to get the crank bolt off. DO NOT use the starter to remove your crank bolt. Check my posts for the correct method to get the crank bolt on and off. You'll need a pulley remover tool too and a torque wrench is recommended.
Doing the job in a weekend is possible, but you will need to have all the necessary tools from the start to do so. Make sure you know exactly what the timing belt does and how to line up all timing marks to TDC.
The SC300's without variable valve timing (VVTi) are NOT interference engines. This means you wont damage anything if the belt breaks but your description of the belt wear sounds like it could go at any time. Harder to get parts when the car is not running.
Doing the job in a weekend is possible, but you will need to have all the necessary tools from the start to do so. Make sure you know exactly what the timing belt does and how to line up all timing marks to TDC.
The SC300's without variable valve timing (VVTi) are NOT interference engines. This means you wont damage anything if the belt breaks but your description of the belt wear sounds like it could go at any time. Harder to get parts when the car is not running.
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HOW do you expect to tighten the bolt on the crankshaft dampener without one?
and im not arguing, some of us cannot afford air tools, that does not mean, we cannot change timing belts, swap engine, transmissions, etc.
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Kinda sounds to me like you cannot afford this car....autolite SUCK use either NGK or Denso if you want a toyota motor to run correctly. Your hesitation is probably because the broken plug.
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Originally Posted by Inabj2
I was installing the connector pipe (in a 18th attempt to fix the hesitation, and egr problems.) And since I had removed the TB and Y shaped connector I figured I check how spark plugs look... (one was broken! nice! I dont remember even applying any force when it came out loose im really short on money so I used an autolite till I get a real spark plug next week or so.)
And I look at my timing belt.... its threading itself away .. My car is at 107k and the belt has not been replaced.
And I dont want to pay a ridicoulous amount of money to do it., (dealer prices and or shop prices fall into the ridicoulous category.) My question is has anyone here ever replaced a belt for the SC300? What type of labor am I looking into? Can an amateur like me do it within a weekend (took me 8 hours to replace the y shaped intake pipe and get all the little nooks and crannies back where they belong, and clean the throttle body up a little bit.) And I know I can get a oem one for 27 bucks or so...
Who has done it? any write ups specifically for a 2jz-ge car? So far my searches have found only one for an LS400.. Tools? I dont have much tools. And even my searches here is all about people who take it to the shop.... not very helpful...
Paying a ridicoulous amount of cash on labor fee is NOT an option! If a must spend money i rather spend less money on getting necessary tools and get a needed learning experience then to just litterally flush down my hard earn money into someone elses pockets in labor fees.
And I look at my timing belt.... its threading itself away .. My car is at 107k and the belt has not been replaced.
And I dont want to pay a ridicoulous amount of money to do it., (dealer prices and or shop prices fall into the ridicoulous category.) My question is has anyone here ever replaced a belt for the SC300? What type of labor am I looking into? Can an amateur like me do it within a weekend (took me 8 hours to replace the y shaped intake pipe and get all the little nooks and crannies back where they belong, and clean the throttle body up a little bit.) And I know I can get a oem one for 27 bucks or so...
Who has done it? any write ups specifically for a 2jz-ge car? So far my searches have found only one for an LS400.. Tools? I dont have much tools. And even my searches here is all about people who take it to the shop.... not very helpful...
Paying a ridicoulous amount of cash on labor fee is NOT an option! If a must spend money i rather spend less money on getting necessary tools and get a needed learning experience then to just litterally flush down my hard earn money into someone elses pockets in labor fees.
8mm socket
10mm socket
12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
sprocket tool
a pair of pry bars
impact(to take take off the bolt for the harmonic balancer if you dont have this dont do it u will never get it off)
if it took u 8 hours to do what u did. i would of gotten it on in less that 2 hours. as for the timming belt takes me 4 hours. so beware when u do it. its going to be an all weekend or 2 job
and just to fore warn u. if u do it wrong. im not saying that you are going to do it wrong. ur going to end up spending money on a new motor.
so imo trying to save ur self some cash on a very delicate situation go have it done profesionally so if they destory the motor. they will buy a new 1 for u
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I just replaced the waterpump and the timing belt on my car and it took me 4-6hrs because I had to go out and get a harmonic balancer puller and I fooled around with trying to get it off without one. Its $15 at Auto-zone and then you get your money back.
I didn't have one air tool and I used my breaker bar and torque wrench to get everything back on the way it should. Runs fine. Just remember that timing belt tensioner, take it all the way off lol. And start your engine to make sure the timing is right before you put the crankshaft pulley and everything else back on, then its easier to adjust if you have to.
I didn't have one air tool and I used my breaker bar and torque wrench to get everything back on the way it should. Runs fine. Just remember that timing belt tensioner, take it all the way off lol. And start your engine to make sure the timing is right before you put the crankshaft pulley and everything else back on, then its easier to adjust if you have to.
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Originally Posted by gserep1
NOT to discourage you or anything, but you should seek a competent repair facility to do this work. You obviously want it done right, and you admit that you have limited tools and even less experience.
If you attempt this repair and get it out of time, you may possibly bend your valves and damage your car. Then where will you be?
IF YOU MUST DO THIS, please get a GOOD manual, study the topic thoroughly, and decide if you really want to do this.
You really SHOULD have air tools to help in the repair evolution. I assure you that every reputable mechanic you take the car to will have them. Turning by hand and not having torque wrenches and specs is a recipe for disaster.
The vehicle you drive is a quality piece of machinery that DESERVES the proper service procedures in order for it to remain operating at peak performance.
There are MANY quality aftermarket lexus specific repair shops that do great work for less than the dealereship. Please use quality parts...preferably factory parts that last longest and perform best.
I don't like sounding like a nag or worry wart, but you DID ask for opinions.
If you attempt this repair and get it out of time, you may possibly bend your valves and damage your car. Then where will you be?
IF YOU MUST DO THIS, please get a GOOD manual, study the topic thoroughly, and decide if you really want to do this.
You really SHOULD have air tools to help in the repair evolution. I assure you that every reputable mechanic you take the car to will have them. Turning by hand and not having torque wrenches and specs is a recipe for disaster.
The vehicle you drive is a quality piece of machinery that DESERVES the proper service procedures in order for it to remain operating at peak performance.
There are MANY quality aftermarket lexus specific repair shops that do great work for less than the dealereship. Please use quality parts...preferably factory parts that last longest and perform best.
I don't like sounding like a nag or worry wart, but you DID ask for opinions.
Last edited by Inabj2; 07-17-05 at 11:55 AM.
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Originally Posted by sczc400
Kinda sounds to me like you cannot afford this car....autolite SUCK use either NGK or Denso if you want a toyota motor to run correctly. Your hesitation is probably because the broken plug.
Quincy.
Quincy.
It doesnt matter what my financial situation is anyways Im not a broken hand fool even if i won the lottery I still refuse to take it to a shop when its something I can do... I mean christ if i can't handle a simple repair job how am I going to handle boost years down the road?
It was an 8 hour job because I took my time taking some things off, this time included runs to the store to get carb cleaner and other components like distilled water and water wetter for the radiator replacement Ill be doing today. Taking everything off was relatively easy, putting it back was not problematic either, only question I had was about the vacuum lines which well It didnt take me long to figure it out. Some spaces are tight and hard to get to with conventional tools figureing the angle to get to them was probably the most time consuming part.
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Originally Posted by Inabj2
Bent valves? I thought this was a non interference engine? I have the non vvti sc300.
Yes, the 2JZ-GE Non-VVTI and 1UZFE are NON-Interference engines. Nomatter how badly you f'up the timing, it won't bend valves....EVER!
I don't know what kind of engine you're talking about here gserep1, but the 2JZ-GE in the SC300 (Non-VVTI) are non-interference.
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Originally Posted by TMaxxTim
I just replaced the waterpump and the timing belt on my car and it took me 4-6hrs because I had to go out and get a harmonic balancer puller and I fooled around with trying to get it off without one. Its $15 at Auto-zone and then you get your money back.
I didn't have one air tool and I used my breaker bar and torque wrench to get everything back on the way it should. Runs fine. Just remember that timing belt tensioner, take it all the way off lol. And start your engine to make sure the timing is right before you put the crankshaft pulley and everything else back on, then its easier to adjust if you have to.
I didn't have one air tool and I used my breaker bar and torque wrench to get everything back on the way it should. Runs fine. Just remember that timing belt tensioner, take it all the way off lol. And start your engine to make sure the timing is right before you put the crankshaft pulley and everything else back on, then its easier to adjust if you have to.