dejacky

iTrader: (2)

Well, I'm replacing a 5.8psi spring with a 7.252psi spring, so it shouldn't be that bad :-P

I added some reflective heat wrap where the piping is close to the turbo. What do you all think?



Update: 7.252pis wastegate spring installed . Innovate LC-1 installed and currently trying to get the MAP-ECU to read the correct A/F value so the tune can hopefully be finalized.



This A/F discrepancy isn't a constant 1.9 A/F. It varies anywhere from being exact, or from 0.3 A/F to 7.0 A/F difference . Ben from PHR and Klaus from InnovateMotorsports are both helping me to fix this problem. Otherwise, the car runs okay for now, with some minor intermittent hesitations that occur unique to different gears.




UPDATE 2: Downpipe and a hotside intercooler pipe were hot-jet ceramic coated in Techtrex satin black (2000 degree). I also heat wrapped thw downpipe with Thermo-tec graphite insulating heat wrap. Result? The car is consierably quieter and the "rumble" I used to hear from the downpipe seems nonexistant..I love it because it's even more sleeper now . The heatwrap should drastically cut down those temperatures too.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

I upgrade to the 7.252psi wastegate spring and logged a max boost of 7.7psi in 3rd gear. Unfortunately, the tune is still not optimized since the Map-Ecu is not reading the Innovate LC-1 wideband A/F values correctly. I also made a few changes as you can see :ylsuper: :

chitwnsazn

iTrader: (3)

i know you have an upgraded fuel pump based on the tune so far, do you think a stock fuel pump will work at that level? Also, where did you purchase the heat wrap, hpf, homedepot? What kind are you supposed to get? Your car is looking great! I just put in a mbc and about to get my exhaust and dynoed today and tomorrow. I'm thinking bout boosting 7 psi but i have a stock fuel pump. Let me know how your car runs after the tune

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

www.thermotec.com I purchased it from an excellent shop called Dinosar Performance in Ft. Worth, Texas. I'm not sure if it's safe to use the stock fuel pump. If you were really on a tight budget, you could feed the stock fuel pump a constant 12-13 volts to increse its flow, but I'm still not sure how safe that is. I guess you could try it while dyno tuning and if the car start getting very lean at 7psi, you can try upgrading the fuel pump. I've heard about several people running ~7psi on stock injectors with an upgraded fuel pump up to ~300rwhp.

Heat Wrap:
The heat wrap for the downpipe is a graphite based Insulator heat wrap. You don't have to dip it in water like the fiberglass based heat wrap. You can also order it online from www.jegs.com , www.summitracing.com , or any other parts retailer.

For protecting wires + loom and anything else you want away from heat, you simply use the Reflective heat wrap that has that tin foil silver outer appearance. You can get it from the same places as the insulator heat wrap... i.e. also made by thermotec.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone else have experience with SMIC fitment on NA-T sc300 cars? Basically it was mounted to low and far back to fit inside the plastic fender linings of that area and the only thing blocking the SMIC are these hard lines.

aliga

iTrader: (147)

the routing of the pipe should be over the sway bar in front of the ac lines.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

So you're saying the SMIC should be moved towards the front of the car correct?

aliga

iTrader: (147)

yes, there is a pic of the smic mounted on a sc here somewhere.

Timdog1650

Wow what an ordeal. Just for the headache alone, I think it would have been easier to sell your car + 1 kidney and just buy a TT supra, lol. Glad to see you stuck with it though...I know the feeling of complete despair when something breaks or doesn't fit or just does not work at all, especially on a daily driver car. Good that you have both the motivation and the means to go all the way on this one. It certainly does serve as a reminder that you'll ALWAYS have an easier time with a fully assembled kit than with a custom pieced together used kit....you'll pay for it, but compare this install thread to a boostlogic kit thread and you'll probably pull your hair out wishing you got a brand new complete setup.

Good job though, there's a lot of good information and pictures here.

~Tim

chitwnsazn

iTrader: (3)

well looks like im gonna have to redo mine now too

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

UPDATE

Well, I noticed this "whooosh" sound while pressing throttle and could definitely tell some gasses were escaping somewhere in the engine bay. It's probably why my cold side IC piping was so hot recently. With the car in neutral and reviing the engine, as soon as the revs are close to being fully return to idle (after a rev), gas emerges from underneath the turbo between the turbo (exhaust manifold side). Gas doesn't come out from under the turbo side closest to the passenger side.

I removed all IC piping & vacuum hose from Wastegate to Turbo and it's still doing it...wastegate seems like it's on tight. Could this be (I fear) a manifold crack?
I'll get under the car tomorrow during daylight, but has anyone experienced anything like this?

UPDATE 2
I just discovered I was missing a washer and nut that is supposed to hold the turbo down to the manifold ..that is where the exhaust gas was escaping from. So, it's always a good idea to check that your nuts & bolts are properly tight when making any kinda change to the car.

lighthalo

we'll be waiting for that guide

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

My na-t guide will include doing the headgasket too...that is what is delaying it as you can see:

SUPRMSC

iTrader: (7)

Holy.. At that rate you'll practically be making a book.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

There is no turning back now :