dejacky

iTrader: (2)

I used a bracket for the transmission speedometer clip and it works fine. I also extended the speedometer wires, so far so good . 240xer, I believe (could be wrong) the supra TT headgasket squished down is about 1.3mm thick. Even with the Supra TT headgasket (resulting in ~9:1 engine compression), you can not run as much ignition timing compared to a thicker headgasket like 2mm on pump gas. 2.5mm headgasket will get you lower compression than a 2JZ-GTE car! If you want to maximize your peak power on pump gas, I would get a 2mm headgasket instead of a supra TT one. Otherwise, I wouldn't go lower than 9:1 compression since the car will feel a little more sluggish in vacuum...of course there is always room to compensate for these effects with a stand alone engine management system and good tuning.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

Half of the new turbo arrived

100mgbluep

iTrader: (1)

I just wanted to let you know that this thread has helped me soo much when doing my build. Thank you very much for your time and dedication, it is much appreciated

3000

What? No exhaust side yet? Did you only order the front side?

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

on the r154 how did u get reverse light hooked up

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

I just extended the sc300 reverse light wires and connected them to the R154 2-wire sensor. Let me know if you need any more help and I'll take some pics for you.

3000, since I'm using a buick style turbo that has a hole on the turbine housing for an internal wastegate, I had DaveH weld that hole shut since I'm using an external wastegate. I had the turbo shipped in halves simultaneously to reduce shipping time. DaveH at Boostwerx has been amazing to deal with. I've never experienced such helpful and quick customer service from any other company in my life. A+

Thanks for the appreciation 100mgbluep and I'm glad sharing my experience has been helpful . For those wondering, I'm still working on the book/guide with detailed how-to na-t instructions and videos so I haven't forgotten about all of you.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

thanks for the quick reply

awesome work

if you have a chance can you snap a couple of pics of what you are talking about so i can get mt reverse lights working


also i am considering purchasing a supra auto 3.76 diff and axles to better my perf for the 4.27 short gears are kiiling perf except off the line but since i am not a light to light racer who cares,,,,, does the mounting flange on the supra tt diff have to be changed over to the orig flange from my na auto diff to make it work .. do you know if drive shaft length is not issue

turbosw20

WOW!!I read the whole thread amazing how you never gave up on the project congrats.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

With the driveshaft, if you use your old yoke, I've read it fits the supra TT lsd fine in the sc300 cars. As for the reverse light sensor:




My local ceramic coater had my turbine housing finished in less than a day! So, this is what it looks like with the Turbo-X 2000+ degree ceramic coating:




The camera flash makes it look light grey, but the color is actually dark satin black.

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

Made some good progress this weekend, just waiting on Precision to fix the turbo and send it back to me. This bling looking 4inch intake might start me on a new "bling hobby" heh :

As you can see, the 4inch (s-cover) compressor housing of the turbo fits the Lexus SC300 cars with the DaveH Boostwerx manifold .

Update 2: getting closer :

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

The Green Goblin is running again:



New TO-DO List:

1) Turbo Blanket
2) Thermo-tec heatwrap on the down-pipe
3) Re-wire everything
4) Re-plumb some of the hoses and eliminate excess vacuum hard-lines
5) Re-tune AEM for this larger PT67 turbo
6) Get Alignment (done, thanks to Carchitect)
7) Mount boost controller in cigarette lighter area
8) Mount MSD ignition
9) Mount AEM EMS in better location

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

The cigarette lighter mod is done:



Peekaboo!:


How I did it
1) Cut the rear enclosed part of the ashtray plastic off so the boost controller can be pushed down to clear the lid. (fiber-glass reinforced cutting wheel tip was used w/ dremel)
2) Dremel with cone sander any parts that snag your boost controller

SeoulMan24

iTrader: (2)

Amazing....

I was recently going NA-T on the POOPRA and wanted to read through.

That was quite a read.

Congratulations! Hope everything goes well...

FormosaSC

honestly this build is very impressive, however im so scared to do a na-t seeing how much problems you've ran into.... 1jz here i come lol

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

Don't let my experience scare you away from na-t. Part of the reason I post here is to help others avoid the problems I had when embarking on this project. When I first started, I knew nothing about cars, so it's been a learning process for me as well...an expensive one . 1jz-gte and even 2jz-gte are not bad choices at all. Whatever you decide to do, don't skimp and try to go cheap with used parts like used turbos, fuel pumps, etc. (it ALWAYS costs more in the end scheme...happened to me) If you're going to buy something used make sure it's simple like a pipe with no cracks, etc.

Important NA-T tricks I learned
1) Always do ALL maintenance first on a motor (and rest of car) before turbocharging it. This includes seals, gaskets, plugs, replacing brittle rubber hose with silicone hose, shocks/springs, control arms w/ new bushings, wheel bearings, brake upgrade, etc.
2) Do a compression test and test the entire motor for vacuum leaks.
3) Always prime the motor with oil before starting it if it's been sitting for a while. The best way to do this is unplug all your spark plugs, remove the EFI fuse and crank the engine for about 6 seconds. Ideally, it would be nice to have some lubricant / oil on those cam caps and bearing surfaces before turning it over.
4) Use a Proper engine management of some kind. If you're converting to MAP (speed density instead of Mass Air Flow sensor), it's in your best interest to rid your car of any unnecessary vacuum plumbing like EGR and all associated hard lines. My car ran better when I did this and I still use the Toyota ACIS!

Also, give BoostLogic a call. I was there yesterday and they had a nice blue turbo sc300 for sale that sounded like it was running great. Also, they're very knowledgeable about NA-T and helped me out during the tuning process, thanks guys!

My SC300 Update: car was running lean and having inconsistent fuel issues on the dyno, so we tracked this down to grounding wire (and Gamimnon fixed it ) and I changed the fuel filter for good measure. When I was emptying the old fuel filter, there were faint, but black particles in the fuel...so it was dirty! It hadn't been changed since 1995! Now the car responds smoother, so I'm hoping these changes will solve the problems before tuning appointment next week.

New To Do list:
1) Fuel Pressure Sensor
2) Replace Fuel Lines in engine bay feeding fuel rail
3) Maybe get Oil Pressure Sensor
4) Order PDA Screen and install PDA display of AEM's Parameters
5) Fuel Pump test
6) Check fuel pump wiring
7) Rewire ECU and add some Extra Ground wires

Thanks for everyone's kind words and support