Distributor O-ring Replacement Write Up
07-20-06, 10:56 AM
#18
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To get the timing exact after re-assembly, you need a timing light.
Marking where the bolt was and trying to set it to the same spot will get you within a degree which is close enough.
+1 on the drawing with the blue and red dots...took me a second to understand it but it's dead on.
Since there are only 16(ish?) teeth on the gear, if your timing is off, it'll be off by 20 degrees (quickly noticeable).
Mark the position of the rotor on the distributor and line up the marks when you re-insert and you should be all set. Simple procedure if you don't drop anything and if your plastic caps on the spark plug wires don't shatter when you're taking them off. Texas cars beware.
~Alan
Marking where the bolt was and trying to set it to the same spot will get you within a degree which is close enough.
+1 on the drawing with the blue and red dots...took me a second to understand it but it's dead on.
Since there are only 16(ish?) teeth on the gear, if your timing is off, it'll be off by 20 degrees (quickly noticeable).
Mark the position of the rotor on the distributor and line up the marks when you re-insert and you should be all set. Simple procedure if you don't drop anything and if your plastic caps on the spark plug wires don't shatter when you're taking them off. Texas cars beware.
~Alan
07-20-06, 11:33 AM
#22
Originally Posted by SPORTcoupe
In the drawing below, the red line represents what I assume the original picture meant to line up. The green line shows what I would mark:
~Alan
~Alan
makes my pics clearer. thanks. that is exactly what i was trying to line up.The bolt with the black mark around it is adjustable. that one bolt is essentially what is holding the timing and attaching the distributor to the engine. When you loosen that bolt, your dizzy will be loose. unless you mark off where it was tightened, you won't be able to return to previous timing without a timing light. mark it off and then loosen the bolt. When you take it off, you will see what I am talking about as the bolt hole on the dizzy is elongated, as you can see in the pic, allowing for timing adjustment.
07-20-06, 02:51 PM
#23
thanks for all the great info, and answers, i just did my o-ring right now and have to say everything went smoothly, i marked the rotor, bolt and took off the dist. the o-ring was shot it was in three pieces lol. put everything back together and runs perfect, not i have to do the wires ,plugs, and valve cover gaskets. tahnks again for the info guys.
11-30-06, 06:45 AM
#25
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Sorry to hear that. Sportcoupe has the correct info you need.
Mark where the green lines show, scratch the outline of the black bolt and THEN take it apart. Anything else is risky.
Mark where the green lines show, scratch the outline of the black bolt and THEN take it apart. Anything else is risky.
Last edited by Project300; 06-08-09 at 01:48 PM.
11-30-06, 01:22 PM
#26
The picture with the blue and red dots is correct and show how to reinsert the dizzy to get back to the original position as shown in Sportcoupe's picture. If there is something on here that is incorrect or can mees up the timing, please let me and other members know.
Breed is having difficulty because no markings were made on the dizzy prior to removal.
Breed is having difficulty because no markings were made on the dizzy prior to removal.
11-30-06, 10:35 PM
#27
Intermediate
Thankx Guyz
OK all is good with my car Now, Big Thankx to T0ked & deruvian for all there help, O Yeah And ALLDATA
& my Good Friend Cory .
So If any of you did not have the opportunity to mark there dizzy prior to removal. Don't Trip, there is HOPE.!!
1) Disconnect Distributor Connector
2) Disconnect high-tension cords (Wires) from Distributor
3) Remove the Oil Cap
4) Look through the OilFill Hole and turn the Crankshaft Clockwise until the Cam Nose can be seen.
5)Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise approximately 120Deg.
6)Turn the crankshaft again clockwise approximately 10-40 Deg so that the timing belt cover TDC mark and the crankshaft pulley TDC mark are aligned.
7) Remove the Distributor housing, remove nut.
8) pull out the Distributor and remove the old O-ring, install new Distributor o-ring and lightly coat with Oil.
9)Align the Groove of the Distributor housing with the protrusion on the drive gear.
10) Install the Distributor, aligning the center of the flange with that of the stud bolt and the cylinder head. After that put it all back together and you Done.
for all there help, O Yeah And ALLDATA & my Good Friend Cory . So If any of you did not have the opportunity to mark there dizzy prior to removal. Don't Trip, there is HOPE.!!
1) Disconnect Distributor Connector
2) Disconnect high-tension cords (Wires) from Distributor
3) Remove the Oil Cap
4) Look through the OilFill Hole and turn the Crankshaft Clockwise until the Cam Nose can be seen.
5)Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise approximately 120Deg.
6)Turn the crankshaft again clockwise approximately 10-40 Deg so that the timing belt cover TDC mark and the crankshaft pulley TDC mark are aligned.
7) Remove the Distributor housing, remove nut.
8) pull out the Distributor and remove the old O-ring, install new Distributor o-ring and lightly coat with Oil.
9)Align the Groove of the Distributor housing with the protrusion on the drive gear.
10) Install the Distributor, aligning the center of the flange with that of the stud bolt and the cylinder head. After that put it all back together and you Done.
12-01-06, 07:37 AM
#28
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Lets start here:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm
Back to the photo. If you don't mark BOTH the distributor mount location (black bolt) AND the distributor shaft (green lines) BEFORE disassembly, then you are allowing the possiblity that everything wont go back together properly (timing off, car wont start). Why risk it? If it dosn't go back together properly, you will be in the same boat as breed. Car won't start. All because you didn't put a little mark down? Your way is complicated and risky, mine is simple and easy.
It's so simple to just mark BOTH and not have to worry about "not rotating the distributor shaft after you take it out." I even took my whole dizzy to work and to the parts store to show them what I was doing. Guess what? The shaft rotated during that time but it was plain to see where it needed to be when I put it back because I had marked the green lines in the photo.
At the end of it all, whatever works for you. I like my ounce of prevention instead of risking the pound of cure. Hope this helps somebody.
12-01-06, 07:55 AM
#29
Just to clarify, both the shaft and the housing do need to be marked. I stated that in the first set of instructions with the pictures. Sportcoupes picture clarifies this. The diagram with the dots is to show how to reinsert the dizzy so the marking you originally made line up again.
My marking was made so since I did not have to remove the rotor. Easy frame of reference since you'll remember which direction the rotor was facing. If you need to remove the rotor, then marking the gear teeth is also a good idea.
If you can follow the picture of the dots to reinsert, then the markings you made should line up perfectly afterwards.
My marking was made so since I did not have to remove the rotor. Easy frame of reference since you'll remember which direction the rotor was facing. If you need to remove the rotor, then marking the gear teeth is also a good idea.
If you can follow the picture of the dots to reinsert, then the markings you made should line up perfectly afterwards.
12-01-06, 08:39 AM
#30
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Good info.
That is great clarification, T0ked. My issue is where the instructions said to pull the dizzy, THEN mark the helical gear. I suggest marking the dizzy shaft (green lines) BEFORE removing it. Every thing else is good info.