SC400 w/150 shot, dyno results help
#1
SC400 w/150 shot, dyno results help
Some of you may know I have an NX wet nitrous kit . 150 shot. liquid filled NX pressure gauge, downtube and TPS switch are the only accessories.
92 SC400 auto
NGK BKR7E plugs (NGK 6097)
K&N drop in filter
94 octane fuel
walbro 255lph fuel pump
B&M fuel pressure gauge (reads 44psi at idle)
Full bottle. Filled up the day before. Bottle pressure only reaches 600 psi.
No nitrous I dynoed at 171.6 HP with A/F ratios about 11.0:1
With 150 shot I dynoed at 267.6 HP with A/F ratios about 10.1:1 !
These #s are very dissapointing. My a/fs are wayyyy rich!
btw this was done on a Dyno Dynamics Dynamometer with intertial dyno compensation factor (*1.17)
One problem is that I don't have a bottle warmer and my gauge was reading 600psi.
My next move is to get a SAFC and possibly a fuel pressure regulator to lean out the mixure.
Any advice from you guys would be great! Thanks.
92 SC400 auto
NGK BKR7E plugs (NGK 6097)
K&N drop in filter
94 octane fuel
walbro 255lph fuel pump
B&M fuel pressure gauge (reads 44psi at idle)
Full bottle. Filled up the day before. Bottle pressure only reaches 600 psi.
No nitrous I dynoed at 171.6 HP with A/F ratios about 11.0:1
With 150 shot I dynoed at 267.6 HP with A/F ratios about 10.1:1 !
These #s are very dissapointing. My a/fs are wayyyy rich!
btw this was done on a Dyno Dynamics Dynamometer with intertial dyno compensation factor (*1.17)
One problem is that I don't have a bottle warmer and my gauge was reading 600psi.
My next move is to get a SAFC and possibly a fuel pressure regulator to lean out the mixure.
Any advice from you guys would be great! Thanks.
Last edited by AME_VIP; 10-09-05 at 12:54 PM.
#3
thanks. A bottle warmer is definitely first on the list.
A local DSM tuner is telling me that its the higher fuel flow of the 255 fuel pump. Its a common problem on dsm's that the return oriface on the stock regulator is too small to return all the fuel. Therefore, I'm having the same issue and thats why its so rich without and with nitrous.
A local DSM tuner is telling me that its the higher fuel flow of the 255 fuel pump. Its a common problem on dsm's that the return oriface on the stock regulator is too small to return all the fuel. Therefore, I'm having the same issue and thats why its so rich without and with nitrous.
Last edited by AME_VIP; 10-06-05 at 11:45 PM.
#7
It shouldn't run that rich. I think its the 255 fuel pump. Anyone put the pump in with no big power adder mods and gone to the dyno?
150 shot is fine.
111,000 miles on the motor. Still on factory exhaust.
I have a B&M fuel pressure gauge as well thats under the hood.
Codetoad, I know I need a warmer but it still doesn't explain the richness with no N20.
150 shot is fine.
111,000 miles on the motor. Still on factory exhaust.
I have a B&M fuel pressure gauge as well thats under the hood.
Codetoad, I know I need a warmer but it still doesn't explain the richness with no N20.
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#8
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Originally Posted by TurboTeg
Some of you may know I have an NX nitrous kit . 150 shot. liquid filled NX pressure gauge, downtube and TPS switch are the only accessories.
92 SC400 auto
NGK BKR7E plugs
K&N drop in filter
94 octane fuel
walbro 255lph fuel pump
otherwise stock.
No nitrous I dynoed at 171.6 HP with A/F ratios about 11.0:1
With 150 shot I dynoed at 267.6 HP with A/F ratios about 10.1:1 !
These #s are very dissapointing. My a/fs are wayyyy rich!
btw this was done on a Dyno Dynamics Dynamometer with intertial dyno compensation factor (*1.17)
One problem is that I don't have a bottle warmer and my gauge was reading 600psi.
My next move is to get a SAFC and possibly a fuel pressure regulator to lean out the mixure.
Any advice from you guys would be great! Thanks.
92 SC400 auto
NGK BKR7E plugs
K&N drop in filter
94 octane fuel
walbro 255lph fuel pump
otherwise stock.
No nitrous I dynoed at 171.6 HP with A/F ratios about 11.0:1
With 150 shot I dynoed at 267.6 HP with A/F ratios about 10.1:1 !
These #s are very dissapointing. My a/fs are wayyyy rich!
btw this was done on a Dyno Dynamics Dynamometer with intertial dyno compensation factor (*1.17)
One problem is that I don't have a bottle warmer and my gauge was reading 600psi.
My next move is to get a SAFC and possibly a fuel pressure regulator to lean out the mixure.
Any advice from you guys would be great! Thanks.
#9
Zombie Slayer
Originally Posted by Jimbo2828
thats weird my car i dyno and got 203 at the wheels with no nitrous hmm i might consider getting nitrous now then hahahahahaha
What year is your car?? You definately didn't get 203rwhp out of a 92-94!!
#11
Zombie Slayer
From what I recall, bone stock, no mods, roughly in the 165-175 range. RWHP. I forget who on here got it up to 211 or 214 rwhp with BFI, exhaust and a few other BPU's.
#12
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I can tell you...with a doubt in my mind...your lower nitrous pull is directly related to your bottle pressure.
600psi is a near empty bottle @ almost any temperate - I'm assuming you didnt dyno in 0deg weather?
Go get it filled now, then redyno.
The other week, I was able to get up to *almost* 900psi w/the bottle warmer on full blast...there was only 2lbs of nitrous in the bottle and the hit was WEAK.
Filled it up & saw 1050psi....hit HARD.
600psi is a near empty bottle @ almost any temperate - I'm assuming you didnt dyno in 0deg weather?
Go get it filled now, then redyno.
The other week, I was able to get up to *almost* 900psi w/the bottle warmer on full blast...there was only 2lbs of nitrous in the bottle and the hit was WEAK.
Filled it up & saw 1050psi....hit HARD.
#14
I would get rid of the "Y" in the stock exhaust, replace with an X pipe, or just twin pipes w/crossover tube(cheaper), and get a larger air filter before tweaking the mixture.
Those two mods will cost less than an AF/C anyways, unless you already have one.
You can make an aluminum plate that replaces the panel filter, and cut off the front of the airbox, mount new filter onto the plate. If you get a cone kit, make sure it's actually larger than the stock one, and has a good radius into the MAF.
Those two mods will cost less than an AF/C anyways, unless you already have one.
You can make an aluminum plate that replaces the panel filter, and cut off the front of the airbox, mount new filter onto the plate. If you get a cone kit, make sure it's actually larger than the stock one, and has a good radius into the MAF.
#15
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Originally Posted by mkorsu
What year is your car?? You definately didn't get 203rwhp out of a 92-94!!