Which is a better engine?
#18
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1jzgt...spagenameZWDVW
Seller looks kinda iffy with 0 feedback
![](https://i12.ebayimg.com/02/i/05/3e/08/e0_1.JPG)
The 2jz manifolds seem to fit with just minor mods,at least so "they" say.
Seller looks kinda iffy with 0 feedback
The 2jz manifolds seem to fit with just minor mods,at least so "they" say.
Last edited by nasc300; 10-23-05 at 06:53 PM.
#19
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Originally Posted by nasc300
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1jzgt...spagenameZWDVW
Seller looks kinda iffy with 0 feedback
![](https://i12.ebayimg.com/02/i/05/3e/08/e0_1.JPG)
The 2jz manifolds seem to fit with just minor mods,at least so "they" say.
Seller looks kinda iffy with 0 feedback
The 2jz manifolds seem to fit with just minor mods,at least so "they" say.
#20
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ok so the 1jz is from the tt soarer and the 2jz is from the supra if im not mistaken. So as far as the electrial aspect shouldnt the 1jz be a little easier to swap than the 2jz? but im readin here that some guys cant even get the 1jz to start up yet alone the gauges not working
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Originally Posted by SC3005SPD1
ok so the 1jz is from the tt soarer and the 2jz is from the supra if im not mistaken. So as far as the electrial aspect shouldnt the 1jz be a little easier to swap than the 2jz? but im readin here that some guys cant even get the 1jz to start up yet alone the gauges not working
Its a plug and play swap. I think i have 4-5 total vacuum lines on my motor, no canister, a/c would work if i didnt break the low side hardline, heater works, cruise would work when i get the cable. Its a piece of cake, anyone with basic hand tools and an engine hoist can do it. I plan to get my next done done in under 2 days.
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Originally Posted by VJ RC51
My engine works perfectly fine since the moment its first startup on its first crank. I got almost 500mi on it so far, and i did the swap myself (cept harness extension, that was done professionally). I drive it everyday. Chino made my tach work with no mods, and if i dont figure out the secret to the cooling temp needle without any cutting or soldering, ill get him to do that too.
Its a plug and play swap. I think i have 4-5 total vacuum lines on my motor, no canister, a/c would work if i didnt break the low side hardline, heater works, cruise would work when i get the cable. Its a piece of cake, anyone with basic hand tools and an engine hoist can do it. I plan to get my next done done in under 2 days.
Its a plug and play swap. I think i have 4-5 total vacuum lines on my motor, no canister, a/c would work if i didnt break the low side hardline, heater works, cruise would work when i get the cable. Its a piece of cake, anyone with basic hand tools and an engine hoist can do it. I plan to get my next done done in under 2 days.
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Originally Posted by BrownDuckz
Your not having any vacuum problems?
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Originally Posted by SC3005SPD1
see the thing is im not going to be racing (maybe wen someone tries to test me lol) but i just want more hp. And since i cant get a supra tt i wanna bring the tt to me
Plus a 4k turbo kit is only a single turbo, for that i can get a engine and have sum money left over.
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If you got a complete 1JZ swap, no clip needed, u can do it yourself for a couple hundred bux for install, done right. There are no exceptions to that rule, its a stock engine going into a car its designed for, with the only real mod to make it fit and work just like stock is extend the ecu harness, and its 100% OEM reliable.
It is not a complicated install, and i dont see why people have problems. I had my wiring done by a professional shop, there was no guessing the work. Only issues i can see with this install is inexperenced people doing the wiiring extension themselves, wrong or not very high quality work and it not ohm tested, and the car not working correctly. Dont be scared by a 1JZ swap, basic handtools (i didnt even have to use air), and an engine hoist is all you need.
It is not a complicated install, and i dont see why people have problems. I had my wiring done by a professional shop, there was no guessing the work. Only issues i can see with this install is inexperenced people doing the wiiring extension themselves, wrong or not very high quality work and it not ohm tested, and the car not working correctly. Dont be scared by a 1JZ swap, basic handtools (i didnt even have to use air), and an engine hoist is all you need.
#27
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Originally Posted by dejacky
2JZ-GTE is better. You can get the JDM 2JZ-GTE engines for the same price as most 1JZ-GTE engines, so go with the 2JZ-GTE because it has better support and more displacement!
I got an '94 soarer front clip for 1500$, the shipping was 700$. So as far as price goes, 1JZ-GTE is substantially cheaper.
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Im going to go ahead and ask the question here, because I dont want to be blasted with the whole "why didnt you search" thing..
If I understand correctly, a 1jz swap is the cheapest and easiest route to go. It really not much more involved than dropping it in and plugging it in. The 2jz-gte swap is for people who make lots of money who want to make lots of power and will stop at nothing short of the absolute best.
My question is, why not just na-t? After reading the "Na-T Bible" on the other forum, it seems that you can make upwards of 600hp just by strapping on a turbo (keeping it simple for this). Do people just do the 1jz swap because its cheaper and the work has already been done for you? Or something else...
From what I have read, its my opinion that there is really no reason to go 2jz-gte unless you plan on 750-1000hp. If I plan on staying under that, I figure it would just be less trouble (and money) to stick with the 2jz-ge or 1jz. Opinions are certainly welcome to help clear things up for me.
If I understand correctly, a 1jz swap is the cheapest and easiest route to go. It really not much more involved than dropping it in and plugging it in. The 2jz-gte swap is for people who make lots of money who want to make lots of power and will stop at nothing short of the absolute best.
My question is, why not just na-t? After reading the "Na-T Bible" on the other forum, it seems that you can make upwards of 600hp just by strapping on a turbo (keeping it simple for this). Do people just do the 1jz swap because its cheaper and the work has already been done for you? Or something else...
From what I have read, its my opinion that there is really no reason to go 2jz-gte unless you plan on 750-1000hp. If I plan on staying under that, I figure it would just be less trouble (and money) to stick with the 2jz-ge or 1jz. Opinions are certainly welcome to help clear things up for me.
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#30
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Originally Posted by codetoad
Untrue. I've never seen a 2JZ-GTE complete engine go for sale under 3k, without including shipping. Maybe a 2JZ-GTE Longblock is the same price as a complete 1JZ-GTE setup... but not the complete engine.
I got an '94 soarer front clip for 1500$, the shipping was 700$. So as far as price goes, 1JZ-GTE is substantially cheaper.
I got an '94 soarer front clip for 1500$, the shipping was 700$. So as far as price goes, 1JZ-GTE is substantially cheaper.
and the aftermarket is growing for the 1jz so it's not as hard to get parts as it was before. there are plenty of front clips floating around for the 1jz it's a plug and play affair