SoarerJzz3

1jz aftermarket will grow, you can already find plenty of parts on supraforums. Look at the sr20, it's easy to find parts now.

Aristo300

JHOT for sure. I'm awaiting the aftermarket to grow...... hell all we need is a good exhaust manifold.

nasc300

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1jzgt...spagenameZWDVW
Seller looks kinda iffy with 0 feedback

The 2jz manifolds seem to fit with just minor mods,at least so "they" say.

Aristo300

This is supposedly the guy who stole Trev's design..... I'd be iffy on that.

SC3005SPD1

ok so the 1jz is from the tt soarer and the 2jz is from the supra if im not mistaken. So as far as the electrial aspect shouldnt the 1jz be a little easier to swap than the 2jz? but im readin here that some guys cant even get the 1jz to start up yet alone the gauges not working

VJ RC51

My engine works perfectly fine since the moment its first startup on its first crank. I got almost 500mi on it so far, and i did the swap myself (cept harness extension, that was done professionally). I drive it everyday. Chino made my tach work with no mods, and if i dont figure out the secret to the cooling temp needle without any cutting or soldering, ill get him to do that too.

Its a plug and play swap. I think i have 4-5 total vacuum lines on my motor, no canister, a/c would work if i didnt break the low side hardline, heater works, cruise would work when i get the cable. Its a piece of cake, anyone with basic hand tools and an engine hoist can do it. I plan to get my next done done in under 2 days.

Aristo300

Your not having any vacuum problems?

VJ RC51

nope, i totally redid the vacuum system on the engine. Theres a dedicated line for MAP, FPR, BOV, PS, and brake booster. Yep u guessed it right, 5 vacuum lines on the motor fully dedicated using new hoses and clamps. No vacuum problems. I didnt use any of the factory system except the metal hardline that goes behind the valve cover for the BOV.

SC3005SPD1

Is this a option??? Buy the turbos and all the hoses and misc. parts ect and hook it up to my engine as a cheaper alternative. Is that even possible?

kietlander

u sound like a kid that has not done his HW. y is it sooo important that u have to have twin turbos? most TT guys swap to single turbo for more HP. 2jz swaps DONE THE RIGHT way can cost up to 10k. u said u have been reading on 1jz swaps and how SOMETIMES it doesnt turn out right. the reason u dont see 2jz swaps with problems is due to the fact that its an expensive, and labor intensive swap that people usually dont do in there garage. mostly everyone gets there 2jz swap done at a shop for a lot of money.

VJ RC51

If you got a complete 1JZ swap, no clip needed, u can do it yourself for a couple hundred bux for install, done right. There are no exceptions to that rule, its a stock engine going into a car its designed for, with the only real mod to make it fit and work just like stock is extend the ecu harness, and its 100% OEM reliable.

It is not a complicated install, and i dont see why people have problems. I had my wiring done by a professional shop, there was no guessing the work. Only issues i can see with this install is inexperenced people doing the wiiring extension themselves, wrong or not very high quality work and it not ohm tested, and the car not working correctly. Dont be scared by a 1JZ swap, basic handtools (i didnt even have to use air), and an engine hoist is all you need.

codetoad

iTrader: (2)

Untrue. I've never seen a 2JZ-GTE complete engine go for sale under 3k, without including shipping. Maybe a 2JZ-GTE Longblock is the same price as a complete 1JZ-GTE setup... but not the complete engine.

I got an '94 soarer front clip for 1500$, the shipping was 700$. So as far as price goes, 1JZ-GTE is substantially cheaper.

SC3005SPD1

well ima college kid wit no money 2 get a newer faster car thats y im tryna get ideas since ima have the sc 4 awhile... but i appreciate all u guys input

Psionic

Im going to go ahead and ask the question here, because I dont want to be blasted with the whole "why didnt you search" thing..

If I understand correctly, a 1jz swap is the cheapest and easiest route to go. It really not much more involved than dropping it in and plugging it in. The 2jz-gte swap is for people who make lots of money who want to make lots of power and will stop at nothing short of the absolute best.

My question is, why not just na-t? After reading the "Na-T Bible" on the other forum, it seems that you can make upwards of 600hp just by strapping on a turbo (keeping it simple for this). Do people just do the 1jz swap because its cheaper and the work has already been done for you? Or something else...

From what I have read, its my opinion that there is really no reason to go 2jz-gte unless you plan on 750-1000hp. If I plan on staying under that, I figure it would just be less trouble (and money) to stick with the 2jz-ge or 1jz. Opinions are certainly welcome to help clear things up for me.

sc.Fred

i agree.. i've seen blocks go for that price (3k)

and the aftermarket is growing for the 1jz so it's not as hard to get parts as it was before. there are plenty of front clips floating around for the 1jz it's a plug and play affair