I just turned on my heat for the first time this year, and... no heat. Fan blows, A/C works fine, no heat. Anyone have a clue?

TJ

 

a couple things to help determine the issue.

1. was the car fully warm when turning on the heat?
2. how does your coolant look?
3. check the coolant line from the block to the firewall, does it show any signs of extreme ageing?

check those things out and get back to us. it will help us diagnose.

 

heater doesnt work on my car either, its the $250 selonoid that controls the hot water on my car... if your cold and u dont plan on using AC, u can zip tie the valve open. I can get a whole lottta zip ties for $250 bux

 

Just like it is a good idea to run the A/C for a minute or two every few weeks during the winter, it is also a good idea to run the heater for a minute or two every few weeks during the summer.

Circulation=Good
Stagnancy=Bad

 

Another common problem with SC's is the coolant level.... if it's down just a little , for some reason, you don't get water to the heater core.... try topping off your coolant reservoir... very easy to do and might solve your porblem.... if that doesn't do it then, as mentioned above, probably the HW valve.... another trick is to reverse the two vacuum hoses on the HW valve then you still have both AC and heat..... reverse the hoses agian next spring and your AC will be more efficient.

 

May sound trivial, but make sure the control is set for head and foot, or just head only. The defualt setting is for feet only, why this is I dont know, but everytime I hit my A/C/Heat on, the default is always on feet only and I always wonder why I dont get any heat That is when I realize that my car likes to heat up my feet before any other part of my body.

Just check lol, people have made dumber mistakes than this, like asking why their windows don't work and then realizing that the window lock switch was pushed

 

BJ ....uh I mean VJ is dead on the money.

search for "heater core control valve" or "heater valve" or "heater control" and you'll get pics, location, and info on how to fix it. It is rarely a coolant problem, but it is indeed possible that if the coolant is not topped off, and i mean topped off, that this rarely happens also.

8 of 10 times, it's the valve which can be manually opened by hand and the vac lines do not have to be removed or zip tied, just reversed.

 

Thanks for the tips. I took a look at my coolant reservoir: Empty. It looks like it has a small leak along the edge where the top black piece and translucent 'tank' meet. guess I have to go get some top secret super special coolant and top it off. Thanks for the tips.

TJ

 

hey now, lol... VJ = visual jockey

I wouldnt mind of my name was changed tho... something like SoarerTT (my usuall one on most boards), 92SoarerTT, or 1JZSC3

 

PM daveGS4, he'll set you right.

 

Here is the problem and solution that I used. Just depends on where the problem lies if this fix does it for you....

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...t=heater+valve

 

Thanks guys.

I'll try the coolant top off first, and take it from there. Next up: Compressor growl, and timing belt and water pump changeouts.... She's my favorite money pit.

TJ

 

Its not the coolant resevior, check the radiator itself. The resevior is just for overflow and won't be full on a normal basis, at least in the SC300 thats the way it is.

 

There's nothing to check but the overflow tank- the radiator has no cap to open and check.

But there are "Hot" and Cold" levels labeled on the overflow tank to check.

 

Yeah thats different than the SC300, the 2jz radiator has a top that you pour the coolant into, the overflow tank is just in case it boils itself out.