dejacky

iTrader: (2)

Yea, he ran 381rwhp on "stock compression," but for how long? ..Only for a few dyno pulls and a short while before he decided to upgrade the stock headgasket. Why? Because your engine WILL eventually FAIL at 10psi on stock 2JZ-GE engine compression (~10:1) and stock timing. I know persons that have destroyed their engines at 10psi on stock compression with no timing retard.

If I'm wrong, please tell me why .

ummagawd

iTrader: (1)

no no you're not wrong at all....

i'm just putting that out there to possibly open peoples eyes...

there is one thing to note however... at 10 PSI on stock compression.... i would most definately retard timing to compensate for the "spike" the ignition gives in the 4500-5000 rpm range

ALSO.... he was actually running like that for a while now.... just didn't know how much power he was putting down til he dyno'd.... but at the same time... we don't know what his driving style is like? so thats up in the air....

lastly... the reason engines blow at certain PSI's is due to detonation.... if you can control or tune that factor out.... you can run 10 (or more for that matter as long as you can tune it).... now... whether or not 10 PSI is the max you can go on stock compression (on our motors), tuned out to the max (thats with good A/F all the way through redline) would best be left to be answered by a tuner

dejacky

iTrader: (2)

That makes me wonder about tuning A/F for higher psi. Obiwan informed me that he could tune my 2jz-ge to 10psi on stock compression and I wouldn't need any timing retard because I'd be using map-ecu. So..I guess a "great tune by a great tuner" with MAP-ECU (thus enabling "fine" A/F tune) doesn't require retard timing at 10psi afterall ... but I'm still skeptical.

ummagawd

iTrader: (1)

i was reading something where the amount of fuel also affects amount of ignition change.... its where a stand alone would come handy because then you can completely change the settings for each seperately

this is why even people still retard their base timing... and then try to fine tune with some type of ignition controller (MSD BTM).... in fact its just that 4500-5000 window that messes people up... because closer towards redline... the timing is back to a more normal curve or something to that effect.

and on a side note... bean was running 10PSI on stock compression over over a year... and that gaminon (SP?) on SF has been running 12-14 with retarded timing for some time now as well

ummagawd

iTrader: (1)

okay.... now that i think about it....

if the OP is looking for cost-effective? I'd have to say NA-T all the way

you can put together an ebay kit with FMIC for less than 1500 (your choice of turbo)
get a headgasket for 200
ARP studs for 130
fuel injectors for 300 (overestimate)
fuel management 300-1200 (take your pic... LS400MAF and SAFC or stand alone)

and make 450+ easy

1jz route = 1500-2000 swapped and running
plus another 2000 for a turbo kit (there's no real cheap route for going single on a 1jz.... yet at least)
fuel management = 200 SAFC (stock stuff can handle 400 with simple fuel controller)

and you're definately around the 5k area... vs... the sub 2400 for going NA-T

and if you're in cali.... going back to stock for smog won't be as PITA as dealing with a 1jz

FortuneLS

5000 bucks huh, hmmm lemme see... a set of 19 inch volk racing gt-v's and yokohama avs es100 all around, plus mounting and balancing, and a set of sui:vax coilovers... 5000 and then some spent... is it a bad thing that i could spend 5000 in less than 5 minutes if i had it?

DETUNED

i'd spend it on paint and body.

Durrr

I don't know about the NA 2Js, but on my 7m, its a vacuum nightmare...