Budget Cold air intake
#31
Finishing it up
Almost Done
Mounting:
I basically use the factory location to mount the box, by the left (fender side) mount I used an L-bracket to mount the box and on the right side I drilled a hole in the bottom of the box to bolt up in the factory spot.
Pix
L-bracket (fender side)
Right side mounts (Sry for the blurry pic)
And a teaser pic
Mounting:
I basically use the factory location to mount the box, by the left (fender side) mount I used an L-bracket to mount the box and on the right side I drilled a hole in the bottom of the box to bolt up in the factory spot.
Pix
L-bracket (fender side)
Right side mounts (Sry for the blurry pic)
And a teaser pic
#33
Nicely done! Great write up and looks fantastic!! Any particular reason you decided to do this project instead of the BFI? I would love to replace the intake tube with that polished aluminum one....*note to self* future project...when I have time...
As for the scoop / no-scoop...I saw that you removed the snorkel, and if you just plan on having direct air flow from the vents under the headlights, won't you have water issues? Just a thought....
As for the scoop / no-scoop...I saw that you removed the snorkel, and if you just plan on having direct air flow from the vents under the headlights, won't you have water issues? Just a thought....
#34
Tnx for the compliments
cheungsta: I wanted something more then just a BFI + all they Eye candy , as for the scoop I have a few things planed for the future possibly a ram air setup. To address the water issue im thinning about one of those filter guards that are supposed to keep water out just as a temporary fix until I come up with a permanent solution.
cheungsta: I wanted something more then just a BFI + all they Eye candy , as for the scoop I have a few things planed for the future possibly a ram air setup. To address the water issue im thinning about one of those filter guards that are supposed to keep water out just as a temporary fix until I come up with a permanent solution.
#36
Keeper of the light
iTrader: (17)
Good job boys
You'se guy's are gonna love mine The 97 bumper give me a lot more flexibility on inlet size and I have been working with sheetmetal for a bit now at my leisure. Pics when I am done.
The words "Ram air" come to mind
You'se guy's are gonna love mine The 97 bumper give me a lot more flexibility on inlet size and I have been working with sheetmetal for a bit now at my leisure. Pics when I am done.
The words "Ram air" come to mind
#37
bigmalik00: i personaly woldnt kno (i have a SC300) i would htink the olny thing you need to change is the tube posibly form a GS400 but that olny a guess u could always give it a shot and let use kno
OLT: Glad to see onother member onboard
I will post new pic soon, possibly tomorrow
OLT: Glad to see onother member onboard
I will post new pic soon, possibly tomorrow
Last edited by $C300; 12-26-05 at 11:31 PM.
#38
Nice shield
Nice shield. I found that fabricating it out of a thicker gauge material, using an insulator material and having a top on it made a big difference.
Check out www.technicalhelp4u.com/lexus for some more data. This heat box had at least a 30° F temp difference.
P
Check out www.technicalhelp4u.com/lexus for some more data. This heat box had at least a 30° F temp difference.
P
#40
Its all in the science.
However, simple physics applies in this case, as in the equation I posted on my webpage:
PV = nRT (Pressure x Volume) = moles x constant x temperature
Now a little bit I plucked from the web:
The SAE J1349 relative horsepower calculation shows how air density alters the power output of a properly tuned engine. For example, at 85 deg F, 30.14 in-Hg barometer reading, 58 deg F dewpoint and 5000 ft altitude, the engine only produces about 81.1% of the rated horsepower.
For the SAE J1349 relative horsepower calculations, the standard reference conditions are: Air temp 77 deg F (25 deg C), 29.235 Inches- Hg (990 mb) actual pressure and 0% relative humidity.
The air density is the actual weight of a given volume of air. This is a key parameter for engine tuning.
The relative air density is the ratio of the calculated air density to the air density at sea level using the ICAO standard reference conditions.
The density altitude is the altitude in dry air that would have the same density as the input conditions. The ICAO standard conditions for zero density altitude are 0 meters altitude, 15 deg C (59 deg F) air temp, 1013.25 mb (29.921 in-Hg) pressure and 0 % relative humidity.
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Ok, still with me?
Now just as in the case of a turbed equiped with an intercooler (which is where I found the below tidbits), an NA engine also relies on that intake charge.
If we remember the Ideal Gas Law referenced above (that is a good google term + horsepower for more reading) then we can continue that:
Di = Air Density
Di= Boost pressure(if you have it)+ Atmospheric pressure/ R x 12 x (460+ intake temp)
Using 150 degrees as the intake temp, the air density is
Di= 0+14.7/53.3 x 12 x (460+150)
Di= 3.76 x 10 -5th power, lb/cubic inch
Calculate for the mass air flow of the engine at 6000 rpm and 90% volumetric efficiency:
Mf= Di x Engine displacement in cubic inches x RPM of match point/2 x Volumetric Efficiency
Mf= 3.76 x 10 -5th power x 182 (for the 3.0) x 6000 rpm/2 x .90
Mf= 18.51 lbs per minute
Substituting 175 degrees as the un shielded intake temperature, based on my real world test (see attached picture - engine temp under the hood was over 175 at the light, with the heatshield it was no higher than 150),
Di = 3.61 x 10 -5th power and Mf = 17.79 lbs per minute
Take this even further to figure out the approximate horsepower of each example, using this formula:
HP= Airflow x 60/Air Fuel Ratio x BSFC
Airflow is in lb/min, 60 is to convert minutes units to hours, and BSFC is Brake Specific Fuel Consumption as measured in lb of fuel per hp per hour. We'll use 12.5:1 for the air fuel ratio and 0.5 for the BSFC.
HP= 18.51x 60/12.5 x 0.50
HP= 177.69
So with heatshield we are looking at 178 HP,
Without heatshield 171:
HP = 17.79 x 60/12 x 0.5
HP = 170.78
A theoretical gain of 7 Horsepower. Of course a Dyno would be great on the same car under the same conditions.
Peter
Datalogger Results from Heatshield Run
PV = nRT (Pressure x Volume) = moles x constant x temperature
Now a little bit I plucked from the web:
The SAE J1349 relative horsepower calculation shows how air density alters the power output of a properly tuned engine. For example, at 85 deg F, 30.14 in-Hg barometer reading, 58 deg F dewpoint and 5000 ft altitude, the engine only produces about 81.1% of the rated horsepower.
For the SAE J1349 relative horsepower calculations, the standard reference conditions are: Air temp 77 deg F (25 deg C), 29.235 Inches- Hg (990 mb) actual pressure and 0% relative humidity.
The air density is the actual weight of a given volume of air. This is a key parameter for engine tuning.
The relative air density is the ratio of the calculated air density to the air density at sea level using the ICAO standard reference conditions.
The density altitude is the altitude in dry air that would have the same density as the input conditions. The ICAO standard conditions for zero density altitude are 0 meters altitude, 15 deg C (59 deg F) air temp, 1013.25 mb (29.921 in-Hg) pressure and 0 % relative humidity.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, still with me?
Now just as in the case of a turbed equiped with an intercooler (which is where I found the below tidbits), an NA engine also relies on that intake charge.
If we remember the Ideal Gas Law referenced above (that is a good google term + horsepower for more reading) then we can continue that:
Di = Air Density
Di= Boost pressure(if you have it)+ Atmospheric pressure/ R x 12 x (460+ intake temp)
Using 150 degrees as the intake temp, the air density is
Di= 0+14.7/53.3 x 12 x (460+150)
Di= 3.76 x 10 -5th power, lb/cubic inch
Calculate for the mass air flow of the engine at 6000 rpm and 90% volumetric efficiency:
Mf= Di x Engine displacement in cubic inches x RPM of match point/2 x Volumetric Efficiency
Mf= 3.76 x 10 -5th power x 182 (for the 3.0) x 6000 rpm/2 x .90
Mf= 18.51 lbs per minute
Substituting 175 degrees as the un shielded intake temperature, based on my real world test (see attached picture - engine temp under the hood was over 175 at the light, with the heatshield it was no higher than 150),
Di = 3.61 x 10 -5th power and Mf = 17.79 lbs per minute
Take this even further to figure out the approximate horsepower of each example, using this formula:
HP= Airflow x 60/Air Fuel Ratio x BSFC
Airflow is in lb/min, 60 is to convert minutes units to hours, and BSFC is Brake Specific Fuel Consumption as measured in lb of fuel per hp per hour. We'll use 12.5:1 for the air fuel ratio and 0.5 for the BSFC.
HP= 18.51x 60/12.5 x 0.50
HP= 177.69
So with heatshield we are looking at 178 HP,
Without heatshield 171:
HP = 17.79 x 60/12 x 0.5
HP = 170.78
A theoretical gain of 7 Horsepower. Of course a Dyno would be great on the same car under the same conditions.
Peter
Datalogger Results from Heatshield Run
#41
Another UPDATE
Heat shield installed and insulated:
After driving around with this setup for approximately 30min I notice a significant difference in temperature around the filter and the engine bay.
933005spd: I was actually thinking about covering the top of the filter as u pictured a few days ago, the foam seal up nicely but I think covering the top might be better.
After driving around with this setup for approximately 30min I notice a significant difference in temperature around the filter and the engine bay.
933005spd: I was actually thinking about covering the top of the filter as u pictured a few days ago, the foam seal up nicely but I think covering the top might be better.
#42
Originally Posted by 933005spd
Nice shield. I found that fabricating it out of a thicker gauge material, using an insulator material and having a top on it made a big difference.
Check out www.technicalhelp4u.com/lexus for some more data. This heat box had at least a 30° F temp difference.
P
Check out www.technicalhelp4u.com/lexus for some more data. This heat box had at least a 30° F temp difference.
P
#45
Lexus Test Driver
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: California
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Originally Posted by $C300
I rather have it the way I pictured it then pull down the lining, ill prolly get the same is not better performance, it will look cleaner to.
I am going to throw some of my opinions in here, for what its worth. IMHO: I would reconsider the wheel well intake. You will never notice the slight pull down of the black plastic under the bumper for the BFI. It is recessed against a black backdrop inside a dark bumper cavity. When people looked for mine they they never found it, even though the size of the BFI opening is just massive. I had to point it out after they got on their hands and knees, stuck their head about 18" away. No one will ever know its there. The under the bumper intake completely eliminates any possibility of water ever getting to the filter.
However, on N/A 2jz-ge, either solution may be more than sufficient. I lost my BFI to a FMIC, so I had to come up with something, (edit) My solution this past weekend follows in this thread for a truly effective and dirt cheap intake in the fender, something to consider, more in line with what you're looking for.
Next, I'd ditch the foam, it will disinegrate and it's an eyesore. At the track speeds my car sees it would get blown apart. Your solution is a top cover and the positive pressure seal gain that is again from the BFI, pix from the site attached here very simalar to the one from member 933005sp post. Of course with you do not get to see your cone intake, so looks or performance, your call. BFI was always about performace and all trade offs had that bias:
Last edited by SCoupe; 02-21-06 at 04:57 PM.