PERRYinLA

I recommend you re-read his recommendation.

He clearly stated that he didn't recommend his recommendation.

ChronoJ1

iTrader: (2)

If it were the fan clutch, shouldn't the temp go down on highways?

ATL-SC

ok here goes my little anicdote to this thread
i have the same problem (with the needle) started during a roadtrip after driving on the highway for extended periods above 3000rpm. but i ignored this because i had just had my guages redone by lextec and only the speedo and rpm were reading correctly. Also noticed the smell of antifreez so i checked it and it was dry in the resivoir, filled it up and it happened again. (there were no leaks) so i added water and "water wetter" i havent lost any coolant since but the car still runs hot. judging by the residue i think the water was boiling in the resivoir befor i added the wetter. Oh and temp guage still hasent moved but it starts above zero so i asumed it reading high was no big deal. Just to many variables and contradictions for me to figure it out.
oh and when the 1jz comes in goes a new radiator, electric fans, and thermostat

JspecSC3

iTrader: (4)

No you know what he is actually right. I knew about this fan grabbing technique for about a year now. I was told that my fan clutch needed to be replaced since the last time I had the thermostat replaced which was about 8 months ago. Stopping the fan with your fingers doesnt really hurt if your car is at idle but if you are smashing it and your fan clutch was never bad then you'd be in some real pain. But like I said, my fan clutch was gone since before the last time I had my thermostat replaced and the temperature had remained the same til just recently.

Also when I warm up the car I do hear that watery sound in my dash but thats beause I switch the A/C over to hot with the vent open. Sometime next week I will pick up a new lower temp thermostat and have my cooling system flushed and then add some water wetter. We'll see how that goes. But in the mean time I'd like to hear more of your thoughts on this. Thanks everyone.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, but in your situation you just had a sensor resistor reading less resistance than the average SC and needed to slide the needle off and place it where it should be, since it had already been weighed. THIS guy actually hasn't changed anything and is indeed overheating. Here's what I have to add on this.....

The engine can overheat due to several issues such as timing (is your timing chain old and perhaps stretching in such a way it may soon fail?) or it can be running rich from improper sensor operation....... but before all that is even considered, we should remember the cooling system is pretty simple and can be checked in depth before we go into the other possibilities that the engine is being adversly effected by other forces.

The cooling system has a waterpump, radiator, thermostat, reserve resivoir, and several return routes in the block.

Provided you have replaced the waterpump within the last year, the thermostat or a blocked radiator could be to blame.

To figure out exactly what is happening with rising temprature, it is always smart to have a compression test done as well as continually inspecting your oil for moisture saturation. You may have a waterjacket failing in the block which would make fluids dissapear as well as higher temps.

Good luck,.

SPORTcoupe

iTrader: (2)

Mike wasn't on anything when he wrote that.
If you put on something a little padded (such as an oven mitt), you can stop the fan even if your fan clutch is good. If it's bad, the fan will stop a lot easier.

The fan clutch has nothing to do with this overheating though. A bad fan clutch will cause the car to overheat in city or stop-and-go traffic. If you're over 35MPH for any extended period of time, the fan does nothing.

I'm currently chasing a cooling system ghost in my car. 2 mechanics (highly recommended ones at that) have told me it's the radiator, but I still have a hard time believing it because this radiator came out of a perfectly working SC that's I've driven for the past 50K miles and know it's never had overheating issues.

Good luck man.

~Alan

BC-GS430

Still got cooling probs Alan?

JspecSC3

iTrader: (4)

very interesting..

I ve tried looking for a lower temperture thermostat but apparently they are very very hard to get for our cars. Our stock thermostat is a "Medium" thermostat which is rated at 180 degrees STOCK! That is good enough for me. I'll replace that, flush the radiator and add a bottle of water wetter.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

the thermostat is set to operate at a certain degree and that's all it can do, so if the engine isn't holding the temp the thermostat is telling it to, the problem is elsewhere. Lowering the thermostat temp is doing two bad things

- attempting to cover up a problem that is NOT the thermostat.

- possibly making it run HOTTER by using a lower thermostat since the water comes up to temp much sooner and cannot properly regulate itself.

JspecSC3

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I'll just replace is with a high quality stock one and see where that takes me.

mikeloc24

Another silly troll. Now everyone knows you're an idiot. Good job on exposing yourself!

Post something useful or don't post.

SPORTcoupe

iTrader: (2)

It was prolly a joke. Chillax a bit Mike.
If you care enough you can search for my 3rd post in the forum and see where it went. Everyone has to start off somewhere.

~Alan

SwampFox

End of Message

mrogersii

I would definitely try the following, in this order:

1) Test your gauge to ensure that it is functioning correctly.
2) If it is, then replace your thermostat and flush your cooling system.
3) If the problem persists, then it might be your water pump.

cip

Dont' forget, before putting in a 'new' thermostat, test it!! Test procedure:
put your thermostat in a pot of water, and heat it. Water boils @ 212, so your 180 thermostat should open fully before that.