VJ RC51

I was going to use a rear line lock to hold boost on my SC until i went GM tranny with a transbrake

gadgetSC

Its the Titan kit.



gadgetSC-t

quikturbo

I also use the titan setup (hurst line lock with the correct lines). I never took the time to size up the fittings, so I'm not sure.

The line lock is what I use in the burnout box at the track, and since I do a 2nd gear burnout, it helps me from learchgin forward. The lock basically us used in conjunction with the front portion of the braking system. When depressing the brake when the line lock is on, the solenoid holds the pressure on the front brakes, therefore you let off the brake, releasing the rear calipers. It's not the best thing in the world to stand on the brakes to do a burnout as the rear brakes are still in tact and not only having to overpower them to break the tires free, but decreasing wear to them as well.

The roll control aspect of it is basically what hal uses it for at the line.

I'm not entirely sure why someone would want this for no track use. I never used to use a line lock doing a burnout, you just need quick feet but the line lock makes it so much easier.

Chris

mkorsu

Chris:

Our main question here is why someone earlier said they use line locks on the rear for the burnout. makes no sense.

SPORTcoupe

iTrader: (2)

Who said anything about off-track use?
I'd like to think that my feet are pretty quick, but as you had said, it's horrible on the rear brakes. I'm not even super concerned with the wear...or not nearly as much as the fact that after a few brakestands, the rotors glaze over and become totally ineffective, as well as make the ugliest noise in the world.

I don't understand paying $125 for 2 braided lines and some fittings so I just bought the bare Hurst kit, and am now trying to figure out which fittings to get so I can install the thing when it gets here.

Once again, thanks for all input.

~Alan

turbo6

It was me. Here is my reasoning, and it does make sense

I have a couple dislikes about linelocking the fronts for burnout, where I think using it on the rears is more effective:
1. If you are sitting still with the fronts locked, the car seems happy to go sideways, though this can be remedied by really cranking the wheel speed (2nd or 3rd gear... 100+mph)
2. When you are finished with your burnout, you have two options for leaving the waterbox area... stopping and rolling forward (and probably getting some water on the tires..), or releasing the linelock and hanging on/ bringing it down from there.

With a linelock on the rears, engage it first, and then use the brake pedal to control pressure to the fronts while leaving the rears locked open. This allows you to have control over the front brakes, rather than just one switch from on to off.

Remember linelocks do not apply brakes... they are only a solenoid that closes/opens the brake line.

Hope that makes more sense.



The reason I would still want the front line lock on my car, is for staging... to help preload the drivetrain. I have a transbrake, and by loading the car first on footbrake and then linelock+transbraking, it gets rid of the shock when the transbrake is released of the slight play in the driveshaft, rear, etc, and instead finishes the motion.

turbo6

Sure, the lines are easy:
You'll need a couple braided SS (or you could make your own if you really wanted....) -3AN lines, and the fittings you will need are M10x1.0 inverted flare female + male for the brake master, and 1/8NPT males for the hurst roll control (I assume others would use it to, but check of course).

Just measure out how long you want the lines, and note if you'll need 90s etc on any of the fittings.

SPORTcoupe

iTrader: (2)

Now I get it. I understand how a line lock works, but I guess I wasn't creative enough to think of the fact that you can use the line lock the opposite way (meaning keep fluid OUT of a front/rear set of brakes)

It sounds like a bit of work though with 2 line locks. You'd have to depress the brake pedal, engage front lock, release brake pedal, start burnout, engage rear lock, depress brake pedal, turn off front lock, finish burnout while rolling forward using manipulation of front brakes. Did I get the concept right?

Thanks a lot for the info on the fittings. I'll be sure to print this thread when going to the shop to get my stuff.

Cheers,
~Alan

EDIT: Now that I think about it, you probably wouldn't want to go trough all that and you would just be starting the burnout with no brakes at all, and then using the front brakes to control the forward roll. LOL. I got pretty complicated there.

turbo6

No problem, glad it makes some sense now

And yes, you way over-complicated the process for a burnout using rear linelock haha... I won't be using the front LL at all during the burnout...

Simply lock the rears while rolling up there, and until switched off - the rear brakes will be disabled. From then on, the brake pedal is used to apply front brakes only. Once the tires are sufficiently hot, start easing up on the brake and gas to carry it out of the box shortly.

It would be just like doing a burnout without a linelock, except there is no resistance from the rear brakes causing wear, extra heat in the tranny, etc.

Again, I like this because it allows control of vehicle speed, rather than front linelock holding you stopped. If I wasn't trying to preload with the transbrake, I wouldn't have a front LL.

SPORTcoupe

iTrader: (2)

Oh well...I tried to be creative. And it would work in that sequence, although pretty unnecessary.

Thanks again.

~Alan

mkorsu

Great explanation turbo. You helped me understand it as well!

SPORTcoupe

iTrader: (2)

Finally getting around to installing. So the thread on the brake master cylinder is size: M10 pitch: 1.0? Are all flares the same in degrees? (Meaning is it possible to buy a fitting with the wrong flare?)

Rear brake lockout like you described works well for high horsepower cars, but I need the roll control on the front in order to keep the car still as I initiate the burnout.

Cheers,
~Alan