jzgte temp and tach fix
#92
Moving SC Threads
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Originally Posted by Rotarytoy
Just a quick note. Adding a resistor inline for the temp gauge cannot slow down the reaction time it has. The temp sensor resistance changes as it's physical temperature changes. Adding a resistor only changes the end reading, it in no way whatsoever could possible SLOW DOWN how quickly the gauge reacts. The water temp sensor itself is inheritly slow, that is why it seems like your gauge is slow.
When the gauge is acting funny like, staying cold then suddenly moving to hot, it is generally due to air in the water system: as very hot water is eventually moved across the sensor, it jumps quickly to hot. This often happens as the water expands, also right before the thermostat opens. Just burp the system and add more water.
When the gauge is acting funny like, staying cold then suddenly moving to hot, it is generally due to air in the water system: as very hot water is eventually moved across the sensor, it jumps quickly to hot. This often happens as the water expands, also right before the thermostat opens. Just burp the system and add more water.
accurate & responsive prior. I currently have 5 toyota's, the other 4 all show gauge movement
@ a certin stop sign, 1/2 way @ a following stop light on my daily commute. Almost exactly
the same. (toyota's good @ what they do) Many other people have mentioned the slow
gauge. I'm talking 15 minutes of highway driving & showing maybe 1/8 ->1/4 on the gauge.
scan tool displays 194 -> 198 F.
I'm not looking to debate basic electronics. I can provide the temp vs resistance charts for
both the SC & the Supra if needed. I'm only looking for a solution to what seems
a common problem w/ the 2jz-gte swap. I know there's a "correct fix" for the temp.
-3 for me
#93
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Originally Posted by kaosman
My take on it is that the stock tach needs the signal inverted..
what is an inverted signal?
this is what I suspect, lemme know if it's right/wrong/or even close
the wire has a set voltage like 5v or 12v
and the singal from the tach reduces it, or drains it down, and based of how much power is bleed off, it will show a coresponding change in the display
Instead of a normal signal, where adding voltage will display the proper output ont he guage
is this a fair assumption??
#94
Pole Position
Originally Posted by TATSUYA93
Alright guys, in case you didn't see my post on another thread. I figured it out! If you look at the wiring diagram for the combination meter, and find the temp guage, you will notice it has two grounds. One goes to through a variable resister (the temp sensor) and the other straight to ground. The 1jz harness does not have this ground in connector Ik2 pin 24 (the female side). Put a pin in the connector and ground it. I was struggling with you guys and finally studied the ewd. Let me know how it works.
just want confirm
please look at picture:
that is one of 5 plugs (body plugs not ecu) that comes with 1jz engine loom.
is that plug is IK2?
if yes is that 24 when I put temporary brown wire?
I do not have that kind of pin... that one brown (temporaty use) do not right snap into that plug so perhaps I can just ground that plug on its MALE side.
thanks
Jerry
#96
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Originally Posted by ConSynX
for the resistor, i just spliced into the wire that plugs into the middle connector.
i believe it was green w/ a yellow stripe, or fice versa. . . i got this through searching.
Also, for the tach, it's pretty accurate. My cut is right around 7k
i believe it was green w/ a yellow stripe, or fice versa. . . i got this through searching.
Also, for the tach, it's pretty accurate. My cut is right around 7k
the resistor that's talked about through the thread is what you want, take a pic of the back of ur cluster if you are confused and i'll point it out, but i think once you look at it you'll be okay.
#97
Originally Posted by dumdumgreg
I'm not doing or planning the swap any time soon, but for the sake of learning
what is an inverted signal?
this is what I suspect, lemme know if it's right/wrong/or even close
the wire has a set voltage like 5v or 12v
and the singal from the tach reduces it, or drains it down, and based of how much power is bleed off, it will show a coresponding change in the display
Instead of a normal signal, where adding voltage will display the proper output ont he guage
is this a fair assumption??
what is an inverted signal?
this is what I suspect, lemme know if it's right/wrong/or even close
the wire has a set voltage like 5v or 12v
and the singal from the tach reduces it, or drains it down, and based of how much power is bleed off, it will show a coresponding change in the display
Instead of a normal signal, where adding voltage will display the proper output ont he guage
is this a fair assumption??
#101
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i tryed doing the tach fix my soldering a wire on the r109 resistor and cut the resistor off but it didnt' work for me. tach still doesn't work. does anyone have another solution. car is a 92 sc300 5spd 1j.
#103
Also, there is still no straight-forward way to fix the temp that I have seen yet. I tried grounding the white/grey to the brown/grey... no luck; white/grey to brown/grey/black stripe.. no luck; brown to brown... no luck. (middle plug of dash, if you are wondering).
#104
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yea that's exactly what i did to the r109 resistor by soldering a wire to both ends and it still didn't work for me. also checked it by cutting the resistor out still doesn't work. well i guess im gona have to use my msd tach adapter. does anyone know which wires to tap cuz i don't have a clue? could it also be that my needle for the tach is completely dead cuz my friend's ls400, all his needles is straight dead doesn't move at all.
Last edited by blaznsc4; 04-16-07 at 11:01 AM.
#105
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tach still doesn't work for me. did the bypass resistor r109. do i also need to cut the back harness and solder the wires together (referring to the first pic of this thread).