extending shielded wires faq (knock sensors)
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researched for a good way to extend these shielded wires for a while and found jack ish really. but i figured it out and decided to make a faq for those who want to know. first i must say it is really easy not a big deal, so i dont think u should be "scared to mess with them" well actually i havent started my car yet, let alone put the engine in but i just did the wiring, and i did this same method on my friends sr20det we just put in. they got like the same issue but with the MAP sensor. but anyways heres how i did it, i kinda made this stuff up but his car just made it from Los Angeles to Washington state 2 weeks after we finished the swap. runs great, and if that cable was messed up it wouldnt, heh. so here it goes.
(RED) first strip the wires, strip off roughly 1.5inches each, i think i took off like 1inch on one wire and like 2 inches on the other. this is because the shrink wrap needs to slide down the
inside wire far away enough not to shrink when u solder the wires. also so you can cut the inside wire a lil bit shorter so the shielded wire overlaps more.
(blue)then fold back the shielding stuff, and cut mayby .25 inch off the inside wire, this makes the shielded wire overlap more and just makes it easier. and strip as little as nescessary for you to be able to solder the wires.
(green) now make sure at this point you remeber to put the shrink wrap on, otherwise it will suck, i kno. so use the smallest shrink wrap you can for the inner wire and slide it onto the side with about 2 inches cut so it wont get melted from the solder. and put another piece of shrink wrap on the outside shielded part(u can use it to keep the shielded part held out the way right now too).
ok, now just solder the 2 wires together, pull the shrink wrap over it and shrink it, then i used a razor and cut a thin strip of electrical tape and wrapped it up over the shrink wrap for added security that the wire doesnt contact the grounded shielding wires.
now pull over the shielding wires, you can twist them into 2 sections and just solder the 2, i just left it kinda spread out and put a few spots of solder on it.
(yellow)then i wrapped the whole exposed section in aluminum foil nice and tight like a blunt. and then pulled the shrink wrap over it, shrunk it, and electrical taped it and voila, extended shielded wires. very easy after a couple times.
tip**
i would use very very thin solder, melts quickly so u dont have to mess around so much in these tight solder spots.
(RED) first strip the wires, strip off roughly 1.5inches each, i think i took off like 1inch on one wire and like 2 inches on the other. this is because the shrink wrap needs to slide down the
inside wire far away enough not to shrink when u solder the wires. also so you can cut the inside wire a lil bit shorter so the shielded wire overlaps more.
(blue)then fold back the shielding stuff, and cut mayby .25 inch off the inside wire, this makes the shielded wire overlap more and just makes it easier. and strip as little as nescessary for you to be able to solder the wires.
(green) now make sure at this point you remeber to put the shrink wrap on, otherwise it will suck, i kno. so use the smallest shrink wrap you can for the inner wire and slide it onto the side with about 2 inches cut so it wont get melted from the solder. and put another piece of shrink wrap on the outside shielded part(u can use it to keep the shielded part held out the way right now too).
ok, now just solder the 2 wires together, pull the shrink wrap over it and shrink it, then i used a razor and cut a thin strip of electrical tape and wrapped it up over the shrink wrap for added security that the wire doesnt contact the grounded shielding wires.
now pull over the shielding wires, you can twist them into 2 sections and just solder the 2, i just left it kinda spread out and put a few spots of solder on it.
(yellow)then i wrapped the whole exposed section in aluminum foil nice and tight like a blunt. and then pulled the shrink wrap over it, shrunk it, and electrical taped it and voila, extended shielded wires. very easy after a couple times.
tip**
i would use very very thin solder, melts quickly so u dont have to mess around so much in these tight solder spots.
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Great post! I too extended the shielded wires when I did my swap. I cut the harness about a foot from where it comes from behind the intake manifold, and extended it using old KA24E harness wires.
As long as you're clean with the shielded wire and remember to solder the shield sections, it'll be fine. I've got over 3 months and 6K miles on my setup with no problems.
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nice little write up and very helpful.i have a quick question i did my own knock sensors wires and my car breaks up sometime or does not do much when i get on it so i was thinking about my knock sensors wire. if you do not connect all the little shielded wire or combined them like you did will that give the car problems cause i did not do that and my car is not running correctly .
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ive been told that u can just twist the shielded part so it like a wire and solder them together and that will work fine, that will give u full connection(like u dont have) but to me it doesnt surround the wire in that part, thats why i used aluminum foil, but on the other hand all the wires are touching within an inch of ur connection, so as long as u got about half of those wires touching it seems like it would be fine because they would all end up grounded. mayby us should just redo them just to eliminate that possibillity. also do u have a atmospheric BOV? ive heard cases of the car "breaking up" after the BOV releases sum air, research that real quick and see if that sounds like your problem
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Originally Posted by linuxbatm
What i dont understand is arent the knock sensors on the ecu wiring? And you only have to extend the cabin plugs correct?
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