Which engine to use for Turbo ?
#1
Which engine to use for Turbo ?
Ok I have been doing alot of reaserch on this. But would like to get some opinions on which engine to use...
For a turbo SC300 or GS300 havent decided which yet but either will come with the 2jz-ge so
1) should I turbo the 2jz-ge with no internal mods or should I build that engine with rods,pistons etc...
2) should I get a 2jz-gte TT swap and do no internal mods or should I do that swap and mod it as well with pistons and rods...
I have no idea what my HP goal is as of yet but it must be a daily driver and reliability is key.
I am used to a 350 HP FF honda
For a turbo SC300 or GS300 havent decided which yet but either will come with the 2jz-ge so
1) should I turbo the 2jz-ge with no internal mods or should I build that engine with rods,pistons etc...
2) should I get a 2jz-gte TT swap and do no internal mods or should I do that swap and mod it as well with pistons and rods...
I have no idea what my HP goal is as of yet but it must be a daily driver and reliability is key.
I am used to a 350 HP FF honda
#3
exactly.....toyomoto has several 2jzge motors putting down 600rwhp on stock internals and there head gasket to lower compression.......so if your goal is less than 600rwhp youll be fine on stock internals and a toyomoto head gasket...Jeff
#4
and don't worry about reliability Hondas are quiet UNreliable compared to a Lexus in all the surveys i've read
Not to mention SC300TURBO has been running his turbokit 2 years... several others around that have had their kits for a long time too...
Since you're used to Hondas you can basically throw all the engine building stuff out the window.
If you want to make over 800rwhp on the 2jz-gte then I'd build the motor...
If you want over 600rwhp on the 2jz-ge then I'd build the motor...
Not to mention SC300TURBO has been running his turbokit 2 years... several others around that have had their kits for a long time too...
Since you're used to Hondas you can basically throw all the engine building stuff out the window.
If you want to make over 800rwhp on the 2jz-gte then I'd build the motor...
If you want over 600rwhp on the 2jz-ge then I'd build the motor...
#6
i don't know much about that part of the suspension
but i DO know that you can run Eibach 1.5" drop springs along with the KYB adjustable shocks
get SC300 springs in the front, and SupraTT springs in the back and KYB adjustable shocks for the SupraTT and you're good to go...
as far as sway bars go; i'd get a thicker rear one but leave the front stock; most bodyroll gets elminated by the springs anyway and you don't want the front to be TOO tight; you'll have a much bigger tendency to understeer; and understeer SUUUUCKS
and SupraTT brakes can be used in the front as well
but i DO know that you can run Eibach 1.5" drop springs along with the KYB adjustable shocks
get SC300 springs in the front, and SupraTT springs in the back and KYB adjustable shocks for the SupraTT and you're good to go...
as far as sway bars go; i'd get a thicker rear one but leave the front stock; most bodyroll gets elminated by the springs anyway and you don't want the front to be TOO tight; you'll have a much bigger tendency to understeer; and understeer SUUUUCKS
and SupraTT brakes can be used in the front as well
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#8
Hey..SC300 Thoughts of Turbocharging
Originally posted by DaveH
You really need a HP goal to make a good decision. But if you are going to stay below 450-500rwhp you will be fine staying with the stock 2jzge. Just do the 3mm headgasket and you are set.
Dave H.
93 na-t
10.86@126
You really need a HP goal to make a good decision. But if you are going to stay below 450-500rwhp you will be fine staying with the stock 2jzge. Just do the 3mm headgasket and you are set.
Dave H.
93 na-t
10.86@126
j
#9
At 350rwhp the engine will probably only last 200-250k miles. Seriously, that is nothing for the GE engine. As long as you have the fuel curve dialed in the engine will run forever.
I don't have a watercooled turbo, but if you did you could probably splice into the coolant line that runs to the throttle body. The oil supply line can be taken from either the oil pressure sensor port, or from the long bolt that holds the oil filter base onto the block. For the oil return you drill out the hole in the aluminum upper oil pan, and put on a hose adapter.
Oh, I've heard a rumor that the 3mm HG is just 2 stock headgasket disassembled and reassembled in a certain order.
I don't have a watercooled turbo, but if you did you could probably splice into the coolant line that runs to the throttle body. The oil supply line can be taken from either the oil pressure sensor port, or from the long bolt that holds the oil filter base onto the block. For the oil return you drill out the hole in the aluminum upper oil pan, and put on a hose adapter.
Oh, I've heard a rumor that the 3mm HG is just 2 stock headgasket disassembled and reassembled in a certain order.
#10
Generally, the GE is just as strong as the GTE.
Later versions of the GTE (97-98?) had stronger rods, though.
Only other differences: Piston shape on the TT to lower compression, and there are oil squirters under the pistons. There are slight variances in the head shape, and the distributor on the GE requires some different oil galleries, etc. The N/A block has been taken just as high, hp wise. Look at Ethan's car or Vinny at Performance Factory, they've heavily abused the GE in drag racing situations on a repeated basis.
True, if you're going for 800+ at the wheels, building the stock bottom with better rods and pistons is the way to go. However, there are people running the GTE with completely stock bottom at 850-875rwhp with no problems.
There are no proven reasons to ditch the GE block, and you're not going to damage anything unless you detonate under insane boost, or get your air/fuel ratios way out of whack and burn something up through super high EGTs. Either way, there is a chance that a mistake like this may take out a built motor as well, so there is no guarantee... Just be sensible, know the car and monitor it with EGT gauge, air/fuel gauge, and fuel pressure gauge. Those three are probably the most important gauges you can get.
Later versions of the GTE (97-98?) had stronger rods, though.
Only other differences: Piston shape on the TT to lower compression, and there are oil squirters under the pistons. There are slight variances in the head shape, and the distributor on the GE requires some different oil galleries, etc. The N/A block has been taken just as high, hp wise. Look at Ethan's car or Vinny at Performance Factory, they've heavily abused the GE in drag racing situations on a repeated basis.
True, if you're going for 800+ at the wheels, building the stock bottom with better rods and pistons is the way to go. However, there are people running the GTE with completely stock bottom at 850-875rwhp with no problems.
There are no proven reasons to ditch the GE block, and you're not going to damage anything unless you detonate under insane boost, or get your air/fuel ratios way out of whack and burn something up through super high EGTs. Either way, there is a chance that a mistake like this may take out a built motor as well, so there is no guarantee... Just be sensible, know the car and monitor it with EGT gauge, air/fuel gauge, and fuel pressure gauge. Those three are probably the most important gauges you can get.
#12
wow...
First let me congratulate you on the 350 WHP Honda.. I build Aura and Honda motors and know what a great accomplishment that is.. I use to drive a built 93 civic (GSR swap, Drag 3 turbo, LSD, etc..etc..) and it was fun and I will have another one, one day... But I agree that the Toyota stuff is much stronger than the Honda blocks.. Honda uses a two peice design which makes them very weak when you add boost... You can fix this by sleeving it or even help by adding a good quality block guard... However the Toyota motors are as strong or even stronger as say a B series block sleeved by say AEBs... And the car itself being RWD makes it more happy to drive with more HP...It will be very drivable with 500hp and maybe more... Honda get bad in the 300s... To me thats the max for a everyday street Acura/Honda... Well to stop rambling either block GE or GTE will handle boost well.. I myself am doing a GTE just because I like the idea of having a "Factory" turbo motor in my car... And the fact I got my complete 2JZGTE for $750 helped make that decision very easy..Like previously stated you intended HP goal will decide if you need internals but most importantly your dollar to HP equation.. My 2 cents...
#13
However the Toyota motors are as strong or even stronger as say a B series block sleeved by say AEB
#14
true but
Well most people that have a block done doesn't really have the block done.. Theres a company that uses telescopic sleeves in a B series block... This makes them unbeleivable... They are definetly as strong as a GTE block... This of course could fall in the most built block on the planet catagory... There is then the dart block but I couldn't count that because that is not factory... The B series blocks can be made very very strong... However what I have seen out of the toyota stuff is unreal... But what am I saying I did however crossover to toyota..Thanks for having me glad to be here
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