Well, I was just about to start up the car yesterday when I noticed a huge puddle of coolant on the ground. Pushed the car out of the garage today to try to figure out where it is leaking from, and though it would be a great time to post some pics of my swap in progress. (well, hopefully almost done, lol)

I have to still do:
Neutral Safety Switch
Stop coolant leak
Get ahold of a Supra TT throttle cable.

First, the picture of a cut hose underneath my car in which I'm hoping someone can tell me where it goes. I assume it's a coolant line by its location, which might explain the leak, however it completely stopped leaking now that I pushed it out of the garage and my radiator is still full.



Now for the pics of my swap in progress:

 

cut hose = charcoal line???
i believe it just goes nowhere as is...

someone correct me or back me up, i really don't know how that thing even works.

 

Hmm, my charcoal canister is all hooked up now... I don't think thats what it is. From the location on the bottom of the engine and the looks of it it is a coolant line, but I don't know what it could be coming off of? If so that would be easy enough, just run a line back to the radiator and that would hopefully fix the leak, etc.

It is strange tho that the car dumped a ton of coolant on my garage floor yesterday, and now the ground is dry under my car... I would think if that was a coolant line, and it was coming from the turbo area, that it would still be leaking. However, where the puddle was yesterday, actually does seem to be right uner this line.

 

i'm 90% sure that hose goes nowhere. it looks like that on my stock SC. [

 

That is a beautiful FMIC you got there. Looking good.

-esk

 

Yep, goes nowhere just as in your pic. Think the lil rubber hose is there to protect who
ever is working on the car. A open steel line w/o rubber would slice your arm up. Toyota
thinks of everything.

 

Ah, well that's good to know... now if only I knew why I had coolant all over my garage floor yesterday lol. Everything still appears full, maybe it was just spillage from filling up the radiator, but it definatley didn't look like it. Oh well, the ground is completley dry today so I'll just keep watch of it.

Thanks for the compliments on the car guys, I'll try my best to get some better pics once she's running!

 

Keep 'em coming

 

Ok, so I just got done hooking up my battery, and am in the process of figuring out the neutral start switch.

I did notice, however, that now my climate control, drivers side window, and both power mirrors no longer work. These are on the body wiring harness, correct? No idea why they're not working... probably something simple... I hope.

 

Was able to splice the black fuse box wire into pin 8 of body connector CF1 as recomended in another thread to bypass the neutral start switch. I think it worked... now when I turn the key to start the car I can hear the fuel pump kick on. However, the car still won't start. I found one random single wire connector unplugged around the starter area, thinking that may be the cause. (Although my wiring harness was cut by the starter wires, the rest of them could be mixed up for all I know)

Anyone have any ideas of where I can find the wiring colors that are supposed to goto the starter?

Thanks again

 

Hey looks like its coming along pretty well. I know how you feel about the Neutral Safety start problem. I still havent figured it out yet but I did rig up a temperary solution. If you ever figure out how to bypass it can you post up a DIY thread on how to do it? I did my auto to 5speed project in Feb and still havent figured it out. Thanks and goodluck. Cant wait to see more of your SC.

 

There is only 2 connections to the starter. Positive battery cable & crank signal wire.
The signal wire has a female spade w/ a black connector.

That wire will only have +12v when the key is turned fully to the crank postion. If you
do not have 12v there during crank position, start back tracking from there. Who
knows you may have a bad starter if its from the engine set.

 

Looking good. My fmic piping was done just like yours. I'm going to get a slim battery my fitment on that side is too tight. I ran a wire directly from ignition to starter using the remote start setup I had in the car prior to the swap. I never really did figure out the neutral safety switch situation.

 

A single wire black spade female connector describes perfectly what is disconnected in my engine bay Now, to disconnect the battery and feel around for where it may plug in...can't see anything down there! lol.

Hopefully will post pics of my car back together and running tomorrow if all goes well!!!!!

Cherplex - yep, I like the FMIC setup that way.... hopefully I'll like it even more once it runs lol. I do have a push button starter I can try to install if this doesn't work, but I think I did figure out the NSS bypass using a year old post on ClubLexus. Will update tomorrow!

 

Supra Dr. - so I'm feelign around blindly for what the signal wire plugs into, and I thought I had it plugged into something but it didn't work... and didn't really like snap in.... which I assume it should do since it is kind of an important wire. Do you remember where at on the starter, compared to the battery cable, that the crank signal wire went? What I thought I had it plugged into was right next to the battery cable in the direction of the drivers side fender.

Everyone - I'm just going to post a chain of events here so you guys might hopefully understand what is going on. Posted on a few different forums.

First, car wouldn't start, complete silence when turned to "start"

Tried connecting the 2 black wires on the automatic transmission harness like some people recomended, didn't work.

Then, I tried to bypass the Neutral Start Switch by running a wire from the black wire on the fusebox connector to pin 8 of the body connector CF1 inside of the car on the pass side firewall like someone posted on clublexus.

Now, at this time I hear the fuel pump coming from the trunk once I turn the key to the "start" position, but the car still does nothing other than that. I was under the impression that the fuel pump should kick on at the ON position, not the start position.

I also noticed a wire disconnected somewhere near the starter. I hear it fits the description of the crank signal wire... that is only one of two connections on the starter... that and the big 12v cable. The starter is so hard to get to that I can't really tell if its plugged in right, if in fact it is the crank signal wire. However, I plugged it into wat feels like it could be its home (the ONLY thing down there that feels like it could be) and the car still doesn't start. For those who know, is this the crank signal wire that goes to the starter?



I heard it was possible to jump the starter... which should bypass everything. (hopefully letting me know that the starter is working, and start the car) but after being down there for the past 2 hours I can't see where I would be able to jump the starter... hopefully someone that has some experience with this could tell me?

Anyone have any advice on anything I posted above, or have any other ideas of what could be the problem? (Maybe some sensors that would cause this, etc?)

PLEASE help me get my car running... THANKS in advance for any help you can offer!