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reducing the weight of our cars

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Old 09-22-06, 06:18 PM
  #16  
vraa
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It's not just about how fast you run the quarter mile, it's about how it handles as well.
Old 09-22-06, 06:50 PM
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kietlander
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Originally Posted by ricky.agrawal
It's not just about how fast you run the quarter mile, it's about how it handles as well.
i would try a complete suspension upgrade to see where that gets u. some nice light wheels and grippy tires. see where it gets u. i mean taking weight off a stock luxury car wont do much.
Old 09-22-06, 06:52 PM
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over40driv
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ricky, you lost me on 18s.
Old 09-22-06, 07:31 PM
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Sorry, jtucci said he was going to get light weight 18's.

It's late, bad week, can't read. My mistake.
Old 09-22-06, 07:50 PM
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TT6SPDSC
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Originally Posted by ricky.agrawal
It's not just about how fast you run the quarter mile, it's about how it handles as well.

Ya, I know. It was just a coparison as I haven't seen anything like...For every 100 pounds less a car weighs it will go through the slalom 2 mph faster. Did that makes sense?


EDIT: I remembered reading this a while back...

SC300 Weight Reduction Chart

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ight+reduction

Last edited by TT6SPDSC; 09-23-06 at 12:33 AM. Reason: added info/link
Old 09-23-06, 07:31 AM
  #21  
CleanCL
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oh i still have plenty of plans to make it go faster... as for suspension, i've done just about everything. but i still think it can't hurt to drop 150-200 lbs. you tell me when someone is riding with you, the car doesn't feel slower?
Old 09-23-06, 10:36 AM
  #22  
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Making the car lighter makes a difference...I droped close to 250lbs and I could tell the difference...

-Remove the spare tire, jack, tools, cd changer and that is almost 100lbs right there on the back end.....

- Moving drive part weight reduction makes all the difference....Stock rims weigh alot...Changing to some light weight alluminum rims and low profile tires will help some....If you can afford a Carbon fiber or alluminum drive shaft that will help noticeably too... That could be as much as a 50lb wieght reduction in moving parts...

- Front end weight reduction is the chanllengine ...Optima smaller battery change, electric fan swap, remove window washer fluid tank and water, change to a CF hood and you will drop another 100lbs....

- If you feel funky you can "gut your seats if you have skills" or get some light weight seats in the front and reduce close to another 100lbs depending on the seats you get...

Coilover shocks in place of your stock suspension, deleting all your cats, Changing out your heavy stock mufflers to straight thru mufflers are all big...I would guess you will drop around 40 lbs atleast and pick up some good power off those mods.....Those four stock springs, big heavy cats, and stock mufflers are dead weight.......


Do all that you will notice the car will be quicker, will handle better, maybe even get a little better gas mileage aswell....It's kinda like driving around with a couple of friends in the car vs. just you by yourself....There is a difference...

Last edited by jibbby; 09-23-06 at 10:45 AM.
Old 09-23-06, 04:44 PM
  #23  
over40driv
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My other thread here has to do with trac. cont. delete, anyone know of a good replac. throttle body, which would be nessasary for trac. delete, and h.p. increase.
Old 09-23-06, 06:17 PM
  #24  
over40driv
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TT6SDSC, Thanks for hooking me up with the url on the prev. weight reduc. thread, a must read for anyone interested in weight reduc. Also the disscusion about the egr delete, makes me want to order a delete kit.
Old 09-23-06, 06:49 PM
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NP man! I wouldn't have any fears of doing an EGR delete. I've done it on every performance oriented car I've ever owned.
Old 09-24-06, 12:02 PM
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The only advantage to deleting your egr is that it will keep the insides of your engine cleaner and you will have less hoses on top of your engine to look at...That is it......I have a deletion kit I never used after researching big time......I think EGR deletion is so overated...No power gains will be made by deleting...I would suggest seafoaming your motor once a year and don't waste your time or money deleting the EGR system......

Also if you decide to delete the EGR system keep in mind that there is a chance you will not be able to pass your states smog emmissions....

Anyway, EGR deletion kits can be purchased on Lextreme.com website for like $85....That is where I bought mind that is now sitting on a shelf collecting dust...

Some info to consider before deleting the EGR...
Old 09-24-06, 12:31 PM
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Sly Guy Yu
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Do the 98 sc's have EGR?
Old 12-05-06, 12:51 AM
  #28  
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why would you delete the egr? doesn't affect performance at all.
Old 12-05-06, 06:01 AM
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i didnt check the thread posted in this thread but you can always change out non-structural bolts with aluminum ones. a huge weight savings can be had by doing that and it wont affect anything negatively. also gusseting non structural pieces of metal can get rid of a lot of weight while keeping strength.
Old 12-05-06, 08:53 AM
  #30  
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Look under the door panels-- The whole inside of the door is cased in solid sheet metal, except for one hole to get the regulator out--

You could safely gut 5 lbs of steel or more from each door alone---

If you stripped the car down bare, with absolutely nothing, I mean nothing-- no panels, doors interior, trunk lid, hood, engine, wiring, NOTHING but a bare chassis--

You would find nearly 200 lbs of sound deadening-- burn it off like the btcc guys do, and you'll drop 200 lbs without changing a thing--

Fire retardant mat under the hood-- trunk linings, two trunk mats, amps, cd chgr, trunk struts, hood struts, spare, jack, etc....

OH, the panel seperating the fuel tank from the backseat is solid as well-- you could completely cut that out and replace the structure with an aluminum tubed cross-brace and drop significant weight.

Gas tank= heavy, change the 40+ lb unit out for a 7 lb 20 gal fuel cell that fits where the stock unit does.

Subframes are heavy, and could be rebuilt in tubular chromoly to reduce significant weight--

LCA is cast aluminum, a custom tubular chromoly unit with a bolt-in ball joint would be cheaper in the long run vs. stock non-replaceable ball joint unit, and much lighter too..

Almost all the suspension components are cast aluminum with non replaceable ball joints, which could be easily modelled in cad and rebuilt with bolt-in ball joint setups in tube chromoly--

I think air suspension is lighter vs. struts also... maybe --

Ti exhaust--

Light wheels-- Light tires-- light brakes/rotors-- lighter seats-- light steering wheel-- no carpet-- no backseat-- no dash except gauges-- light shifter--

Manual swap should drop significant weight, while a lightened flywheel would increase throttle response--

Headers are lighter than cast factory units-- no cats......... no mufflers--

CF hood/trunk...

Replace trunk floor with aluminum sheet .....

Lexan windows--

All that should knock off 1000 lbs...

Then it would be a fast race car--


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