svtdubs

You can find a low miled na motor for next to nothing these days. Anyone ever toyed with the idea of buying one, throwing some good pistons, rods and 3mm head gasket on it and having it incase your stock internal'd na-t lets go... or just to have?

Your thoughts?

laxdude362

iTrader: (1)

I think it is a great idea. If I had the time and money I would def. do it. I actually have a friend that is building a 2jzge motor aside from the one he has in his na sc300.

svtdubs

I mean, pistons, rods and HG is really all you need to do to the motor for it to handle a lot of power. You can buy a motor for like $250, add the hg for 250, arp bolts for 160, pistons and rods for $1500-3000 depending on how crazy you want to get with it and call it a day.

What brand pistons/rods do the supra guys usually use and how much are they? All I know is mustang and viper stuff, Im still learning the 2jz stuff

jibbby

Ebay has some deals on motors...For a good priced performance engine I would look into the GM LS1 engine...With cams and good exhaust you can lay down 400whp or more N/A...It is a smaller and lighter weight motor then the 1ux-fe Lexus V8 motors...The alluminum block has alot to do with that...

Infact, the LS1 motor was rated the best used motor to buy for the buck...Performance vs. Price truck and driver mag.....

laxdude362

iTrader: (1)

Jibby it is the 1uz-fe not 1ux-fe. He is looking at buying another 2jzge and building that, not the v8 1uz. And I'm sure he's not interested in turning his lexus into a muscle car. Besides most guys with an SC300 like to stick with the 2jz because it is one of the best and most reliable motors out there to make power on.

svtdubs

2jzge is what Im looking for

kbprice

If you are going to go to the trouble off tearing the bottem end apart you could put in low compression pistons and not have to worry about a 3mm headgasket. I'm half way through this process now. I have a spare motor I picked up for $300. Eagle rods = $450. Stock toyota GTE pistons are like $300, Stock headgasket = $150, ARP headstuds = $160, New bearings $300, new waterpump/oilpump = $300. Labor to hve a good machine shop assemble everything is like $1500. Rebuilding the head is like another $600.

jibbby

The 1ux-fe was a typo...I ment Xuz-fe to refer to the 1uz-fe, 2uz-fe and 3uz-fe motors...THanks for the correction...I understand the Toyota motors are well received and adored on the Lexus forums and GM motors are basically hated...However HP numbers, dimensions, bare block weight, and pricing do not lie....The LS1 motor is simply the best bang for the buck....The LS1 alluminum block V8 engine weighs less then 2jz or close to the same and produces over twice the N/A power...

I would like to know whom on this forum would not welcome a fine tuned LS1 motor in excellent condition swapped in to perfection and sitting under the hood of there SC sporting 400whp of N/A power?...That is the ones sitting on N/A Toyota motors doing nothing...Put some mufflers on if you don't want the muscle car sound too....Good reliable engine power, regardless of the manufacturer 'NAME" is hard to pass up on, no?

The 2JZ motors are great strong motors that will practically last forever...However, The only way to make any real power out of that straight 6 banger is to have forced air induction like a turbo....A suped up N/A 2JZ motor is a joke and a waste of money if you ask me...Unless you dump thousands on racing cams, increased bore size, etc....Just my opinion. ....Am I right or am I wrong?

Turbo the 2JZ then you got something.....Just my two cents..

motorheaddown

I picked up a used 70k mile GE longblock for $350. A TT hg ($120) and ARP studs ($130) put the cost of the motor under $600. I'm hoping to dyno at TX2K7 with the motor set up with a CR of 9:1 and cams (272i/264e) and a 74mm turbo. My goal is to bust the 800 mark with a stock GE bottom end. The only concern I have is keeping knock under control with the higher compression motor and reduced squish effect because of the thick hg.

Of course, talk is cheap, but I know it's possible based on the numbers I'm currently putting down with a 71mm turbo and a 8.4:1 motor and 264 cams.

If the motor lets go, who cares... I'm only out 600 bucks.

-scott

jibbby

What car is that long block going into?

motorheaddown

The one in my sig.

-scott

motorheaddown

Not required... Plus, I don't like the idea of a lash cap getting spit out at 7k+ RPM.

I figured out how to completely remove the distributor. I run VVt-i coils or TT coil packs and TT HKS cams "as is" in a GE head. The motor is instrumented with Hall Effect sensors, and I modified the AEM to accept the digital output of the Hall sensor for both the cam and crank triggers.

-scott

svtdubs

can you explain this a little bit. I think I know what you are talking about but can you clarify?

motorheaddown

I already answered this question from you on SF. See post 37 here: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...=350965&page=2

FWIW, Justin Nenni of Tuning Concepts pretty much agreed with my explanation in post 39.

-scott

svtdubs

yeah, I just saw that! Thanks! So what is the best way to built this motor?