Could it be.....Turbo?!
10-25-01, 01:08 PM
#46
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
THANKS!! I'll go put that in, and see what happens. What boost are you runnin? I HATE this kPA stuff....i want PSI...lol 
I've gotta make myself a little conversion chart to put in there until i memorize it...
SR
I've gotta make myself a little conversion chart to put in there until i memorize it...
SR
10-25-01, 02:43 PM
#47
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Scott....nevermind the boost question....I see it in your post now. I didn't know that part was the boost until I went into the AVC-R setup and saw how it's entered. Well I figured I would try a simple setting first to see what happens. I did 28% solenoid and .7 boost. Didn't work out so well....for those that don't know this boost gauge...the number on the bottom left is the MAX boost that was reached in the last run....
I didn't know that part was the boost until I went into the AVC-R setup and saw how it's entered. Well I figured I would try a simple setting first to see what happens. I did 28% solenoid and .7 boost. Didn't work out so well....for those that don't know this boost gauge...the number on the bottom left is the MAX boost that was reached in the last run....
10-25-01, 02:46 PM
#48
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Well needless to say, almost 15lbs of boost and the 10:1 compression don't go well together....LOL First time I've had detonation in this car....and geez....a cloud of smoke that blocked the entire road behind me...LOL Hmmm....
Any ideas on why it isn't holding the boost down? I'm guessing it's just settings that are wrong...
SR
Any ideas on why it isn't holding the boost down? I'm guessing it's just settings that are wrong...
SR
10-25-01, 03:10 PM
#49
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
And a couple pics....engine bay (e-bay? hmmm) is mostly complete. There's a couple wires here and there I need to find places for, and I need to replace all the zip ties with red ones. I had like one of each color...so the engine is kinda colorful at the moment...LOL
And yes I ordered cam gears for it to replace the "not so pretty" lexus ones. I went ahead and cut the gear cover tho, still looks neat when you open the engine and see em spinning.
And yes I ordered cam gears for it to replace the "not so pretty" lexus ones.
I went ahead and cut the gear cover tho, still looks neat when you open the engine and see em spinning.
10-25-01, 03:13 PM
#50
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
And no, I'm not using the engine to keep my lunch warm. That aluminum foil is heat wrap that I put around the turbo housing. I wanted to keep the heat out of the air compressor. And I'm getting more heat wrap, so I'll wrap the exhaust turbine to keep the heat IN there. I'm thinking of getting the exhaust manifold ceramic coated too...that'd be neat.
SR
SR
10-25-01, 05:01 PM
#51
if i'm not mistaken...
when you LOWER your boost duty cycle, you are basically raising the amount of time of each cycle that the computer/solenoid checks the boost pressure... that way it doesn't check as often and won't open up the solenoid as quickly.. which increases spool since the wastegate stays closed longer
if you raise your duty cycle on the higher rpm it is basically limiting the boost because its increasing the amount of times the computer/solenoid checks the boost pressure... and opens the wastegate up QUICKER...
so lowering it makes boost increase fast and raising it makes it increase slowly, or not at all.. so its a combo of the two to make your turbo spool faster and stay at a controlled boost level
i MIGHT have this backwards but i'm pretty sure thats the way it works
try fiddling with the duty cycle at the point where its overboosting at... raise it up really high and see what happens... if it doesn't help; then lower the target boost too, etc...
you're going to love the gear-based boost maps with that open-diff of yours
when you LOWER your boost duty cycle, you are basically raising the amount of time of each cycle that the computer/solenoid checks the boost pressure... that way it doesn't check as often and won't open up the solenoid as quickly.. which increases spool since the wastegate stays closed longer
if you raise your duty cycle on the higher rpm it is basically limiting the boost because its increasing the amount of times the computer/solenoid checks the boost pressure... and opens the wastegate up QUICKER...
so lowering it makes boost increase fast and raising it makes it increase slowly, or not at all.. so its a combo of the two to make your turbo spool faster and stay at a controlled boost level
i MIGHT have this backwards but i'm pretty sure thats the way it works
try fiddling with the duty cycle at the point where its overboosting at... raise it up really high and see what happens... if it doesn't help; then lower the target boost too, etc...
you're going to love the gear-based boost maps with that open-diff of yours
10-25-01, 08:37 PM
#52
Lexus Test Driver
Be careful with the duty cycle.
I thought the duty was set according to how long the solenoid is active v.s. inactive. Since the solenoid is either on or off, (I think) the lower the duty, the less it has a chance (or time) to interfere with the wastegate, therefore limiting boost above and beyond the springs pressure. I'm pretty sure if you set the duty cycle really high, you'll get a huge boost spike.
Play around with it and let me know what you think.
I do know if the duty is too low, you'll never achieve the correct boost pressure, and if its set too high, you'll overshoot the target boost.
The goal is to have the duty set so that the desired boost pressure is achieved at full throttle, but not sooner.
I thought the duty was set according to how long the solenoid is active v.s. inactive. Since the solenoid is either on or off, (I think) the lower the duty, the less it has a chance (or time) to interfere with the wastegate, therefore limiting boost above and beyond the springs pressure. I'm pretty sure if you set the duty cycle really high, you'll get a huge boost spike.
Play around with it and let me know what you think.
I do know if the duty is too low, you'll never achieve the correct boost pressure, and if its set too high, you'll overshoot the target boost.
The goal is to have the duty set so that the desired boost pressure is achieved at full throttle, but not sooner.
10-26-01, 04:31 AM
#53
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G-D damn im glad i got a profec B......all i do is turn a *** and the boost is where i want it everytime for 2 years now......no duty cycle.....when does it open or close cycles......to much crap for me.....and 15psi on pump fuel on stock compression is BAD....your gonna kill that motor man...Jeff
10-26-01, 06:48 AM
#55
Lexus Test Driver
My point exactly... When traction is as critical as it is, you need to tweak boost to match it. The engine is also less sensitive to boost levels at certain RPMS and there is no other way to maximize the amount of boost able to run without RPM based control.
10-26-01, 07:00 AM
#56
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throw some 295-35-18 bfgoodrich g-force t/a on the rear and you go traction......i have very little traction issues...only really on launches.....and i can control it...and i catch up quick anyway..
as for the 495.....it was running really bad.....richrichirchrichreallllyyyyyrich...i normally dyno at 15psi on pump gas and hit 430-440 rear wheel....i dynoed with my new fuel pump and didnt adjust anything......then i added race gas and 19psi...and the car dynoed only 430rwhp......way low....then i shot a 75 shot of nitrous on top of it and hit 495.....for as rich as i was running it still put down 65rwhp on a 75 shot of nitrous...VERY impressed i was with this Nitrous Express kit.....i am redynoing the car tommorrow at a big supra/lexus meet tommorrow here in miami.....i have adjusted the fuel a little bit..and its running alot better.....im looking for over 500rwhp..ill keep ya posted....so the 495 sounds better than it was...but ill have new numbers.....Jeff
as for the 495.....it was running really bad.....richrichirchrichreallllyyyyyrich...i normally dyno at 15psi on pump gas and hit 430-440 rear wheel....i dynoed with my new fuel pump and didnt adjust anything......then i added race gas and 19psi...and the car dynoed only 430rwhp......way low....then i shot a 75 shot of nitrous on top of it and hit 495.....for as rich as i was running it still put down 65rwhp on a 75 shot of nitrous...VERY impressed i was with this Nitrous Express kit.....i am redynoing the car tommorrow at a big supra/lexus meet tommorrow here in miami.....i have adjusted the fuel a little bit..and its running alot better.....im looking for over 500rwhp..ill keep ya posted....so the 495 sounds better than it was...but ill have new numbers.....Jeff
10-26-01, 08:43 AM
#57
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TO be sprung or not to be sprung
I should know this, but i dont. What is the difference in sprung and unsprung disks?? whats the difference in feel if any.
Hey scott, how much torque and hp are you putting out wiht your system again?? ACT doesn't have a setup that will work with us.
called them. there best pressure plate will hold about 355 ft-lb of torque. Iam calling clutchmasters to see what they have. hopefully i can get a heavier pressure plate and a disc closer to stock. i can take more power with the pressure plate and keep the engagement closer to stock.
any thoughts or opiniions guys??
Arthur
Hey scott, how much torque and hp are you putting out wiht your system again?? ACT doesn't have a setup that will work with us.
called them. there best pressure plate will hold about 355 ft-lb of torque. Iam calling clutchmasters to see what they have. hopefully i can get a heavier pressure plate and a disc closer to stock. i can take more power with the pressure plate and keep the engagement closer to stock.
any thoughts or opiniions guys??
Arthur
Last edited by wolfy187; 10-26-01 at 08:49 AM.
10-26-01, 10:22 AM
#58
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clutch masters dual diaphram........only one that will hold it...i had it on the 5spd when i went 11.90...i had a sprung disc and it would chatter a lil bit ....alot less once you learned how to drive it.......and the pedal fell is heavier than stock.....Jeff
10-26-01, 12:37 PM
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really... wow...i called Vitek and they said they would put something togethor for me custom. Depending how i wanted it to feel how much power i was putting out. that's is pretty sweet i think
Anyone have any hook ups with this company??
Arthur
Anyone have any hook ups with this company??
Arthur
10-26-01, 02:46 PM
#60
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I wasn't "planning" on running 15psi....it just did.
I've tried many settings thus far: 20% duty (lowest it goes) with .20 boost, and I still get to around .50 or so with that. When I tried .20 boost and 50% duty, and it got to .70 boost before I was even at WOT. Hmmm......
Don't know what to think at the moment. I really do want the ability to set boost per gear and RPM's....until I get new rims I can't put wider than 255's. And at that point I'll be getting LSD (not the paper tho) to help with traction.
Scott....is there a way to turn off the avc-r but still be able to monitor the boost with it? I don't see an option for that, but I've only messed with it while driving. I was just thinking of pulling the wastegate hose from the solenoid in the interim.
And I've become pretty good at setting the S-AFC....I've managed to keep my air/fuel above .92 constantly when i'm on boost....even up to about 12lbs. And this is without the additional injectors firing...stock 330 injectors.
For those that were wondering about the air/fuel gauge....the AutoMeter SportComp uses the following for ratings...
Lean - .00 to .38
Good - .38 to .89
Rich - .90 to 1.00
But needless to say it doesn't respond nearly as quick as a voltmeter can....my new A/F gauge is a Fluke voltmeter.
Until I get some dyno time to really tune this thing, I was thinking of this to make it safe: The AVC-R has a scramble switch, to change to a different boost (lower or higher) at the push of a button. Well I was thinking, that I could use the serial out from the Fluke to activate a relay when it gets below .9 air/fuel. So when it goes lower than that, it would activate the scramble switch, and brop boost to a pre-set level, say 5lbs, for safety. That would give me something neat to screw with! lol
Oh and Lance at Toyomoto said that on the SC3 you want the ratio to be .8 or higher while boosting. Even when I hit 15lbs, I was still showing well into the .9?'s on air/fuel.....seems like the factory fuel system may be better than we thought?
And last thing...if I unhook the oxy sensor, does the ECU use preset fuel maps that don't change? In other words....I could use the s-afc to actually make changes to the fuel curve, and the car wouldn't be correcting them? Does the oxy sensor have to be connected to put out voltage, or will it just push out on that single wire the 1v? I'm still trying to figure that one out.
By the way....thanks everyone for your help!!
SR
I've tried many settings thus far: 20% duty (lowest it goes) with .20 boost, and I still get to around .50 or so with that. When I tried .20 boost and 50% duty, and it got to .70 boost before I was even at WOT. Hmmm......
Don't know what to think at the moment. I really do want the ability to set boost per gear and RPM's....until I get new rims I can't put wider than 255's. And at that point I'll be getting LSD (not the paper tho) to help with traction.
Scott....is there a way to turn off the avc-r but still be able to monitor the boost with it? I don't see an option for that, but I've only messed with it while driving. I was just thinking of pulling the wastegate hose from the solenoid in the interim.
And I've become pretty good at setting the S-AFC....I've managed to keep my air/fuel above .92 constantly when i'm on boost....even up to about 12lbs. And this is without the additional injectors firing...stock 330 injectors.
For those that were wondering about the air/fuel gauge....the AutoMeter SportComp uses the following for ratings...
Lean - .00 to .38
Good - .38 to .89
Rich - .90 to 1.00
But needless to say it doesn't respond nearly as quick as a voltmeter can....my new A/F gauge is a Fluke voltmeter.
Until I get some dyno time to really tune this thing, I was thinking of this to make it safe: The AVC-R has a scramble switch, to change to a different boost (lower or higher) at the push of a button. Well I was thinking, that I could use the serial out from the Fluke to activate a relay when it gets below .9 air/fuel. So when it goes lower than that, it would activate the scramble switch, and brop boost to a pre-set level, say 5lbs, for safety. That would give me something neat to screw with! lol
Oh and Lance at Toyomoto said that on the SC3 you want the ratio to be .8 or higher while boosting. Even when I hit 15lbs, I was still showing well into the .9?'s on air/fuel.....seems like the factory fuel system may be better than we thought?
And last thing...if I unhook the oxy sensor, does the ECU use preset fuel maps that don't change? In other words....I could use the s-afc to actually make changes to the fuel curve, and the car wouldn't be correcting them?
Does the oxy sensor have to be connected to put out voltage, or will it just push out on that single wire the 1v? I'm still trying to figure that one out. By the way....thanks everyone for your help!!
SR