CleanCL

jibby, i think you are over analyzing the situation. while accelerating how exactly would engine heat seap into his intake? i think under normal driving conditions a standard intake w/ cone and no heat shield would still yield results... reasons why it doesnt show up on a dyno, people arent using fans to simulate driving conditions, so heat soak occurs. BUT heatsoak ovviously occurs while at a stop light or in traffic, but still, i think you are wrapping your brain over this intake. why spend more money when a BFI is fine? i would focus on other things, bc everything premaf that isn't a bfi isn't going to yield amazing results worth spending tons of money on.

jibbby

Jtucci - Just want the best intake setup as possible so then I am done with it I won't have to second guess it...Little gains here and there start to ad up as you well know...It's like why settle for standard spark plugs when you can run the better 4 point platinum plugs...Something like that...Also with the S&S headers sitting under my hood engine heat is much greater then at stock, I know that I am getting robbed of some ponies with my intake from the engine heat spill over...Change is needed....

I just got to thinking when your running your car at open speeds if you have a sealed off intake scoop design simular to the BFI design but better that actually pushes forced air into your intake rather then a pod filter intake setup that uses the engine to suck in air would yeild far better results... I am beginning to think pod filters are very over rated....

Scoupe- Sealing off your intake will make it perform better, but still the air is not really being fully ram'd thru the pod filter, well if it's totally sealed then maybe a little...No?


jtucci, that 4.7 tundra motor sounds nice, how are you going to squeeze that tall intake manifold under the hood of an SC...I looked into that swap a while back and the motor at stock measures too tall for an SC fit......I am sure you worked this out already...Good luck, that is a strong motor and the final results of that swap should be most impressive...

CleanCL

weren't your S&S jethot coated? mine are and i've been using jethot for awhile now, and the heat is reduced dramticaly from the headers, in fact, i think that little to no heat is coming from the headers but other palces.

you dont need the whole tundra motor.

jibbby

I guess mine are not, don't know for sure...However, I feel the heat radiating out from under the car when I get in and out after cruising for awhile. I did not feel the heat before the header install.....I just ordered the S&S Headers off of their website and got what they sent me, I would think they would be Jethot coated...

Here is a pic of my headers pre- install, do they look coated to you?

MJHSC400

Jtucci-- Please post pics of your 4.7 build-- I'm super duper interested in that sorta handywork--

Matt

CleanCL

i've worked w/ jethot before, and id honestly be suprised if the headers themselves are radiating excess heat. if you feel the heat from under the car that has nothing to do with the headers? isnt your cat in the middle and underneath?

jgscott

iTrader: (1)

jibby, if you paided $600 for headers they are jet coated. If you paided $ 400 they are not. Those do look like the jet coat header.

Back to the pre 97 air box. I reasearched this alot. Bottom line as Peter Scott once sent me an E Mail. People have done all kinds of things on the pre 97 intake box and tubing. I fooled with it myself.

The 95 back has the metal MAF and 96,97 have a plastic tube cup, the 98 up has a small bullet shape that goes in the tube. At the end of all the changes and trials, all have resorted back to the stock air box because for drivability at all RPM's in both open and closed loop mode, and after dynoing nothing beat the BFI period.

I really think that if you went back to your stock air box with K&N or TRD filter, and BFI you would pick up 10 HP or more than you have.

Without back to back dyno's there is nothing else better.

Only thing I was going to do before I sold my 97 for a 98 SC400 was build the sealed air box with the front having a flat filter in it. Then run the stock air box with no filter, only allowing filter'd air in the BFI chamer Via the filter'd front wall of the BFI box. Kinda hard to explain.

jibbby

I second that request....I have questions like, are you going to use your stock SC400 tranny with that swap? And if so how are you going to make the tranny codes work? What ECU are you going to use?...Lastly how is it going to fit top wise?...It should all bolt in just fine right? That kinda stuff....

jgscott - I paid $600 so they are coated (S&S Headers) The heat is absolutely noticeable after and only after the Header install and the deletion of the two little cats...Sorry guys these headers once installed radiate heat big time over the stock headers...Running temp is still at a quarter temp read always...Just noticeable when I get in and out of the car or lift the hood after running it....

Intake - Yeah, I agree the BFI intake is hard to beat...PERIOD...

xirforever

maybe your aftermarket fans are beginning to crap out? also, the 4 tip bosch plugs are a load of crap, they are not better than stock iridium plugs.

thanks for the compliment to whoever posted the pic of my intake, personally, i feel the surface area is key, and thats why the BFI beats those puny cone intakes. Mine cylinder shapped filter is absolutely enormous, and BFI doesnt have any size on me

CleanCL

fyi - nothing changes height wise, its all about internal stroke. i dont see why the ecu/tranny wont work? the block isn't changing really, its all the same, just the insides change.

as far as radiating heat, your exhaust system is quite different than stock. i'll let you know on temps when i do my exhaust. but i dont believe the headers radiate that much excess heat.

MJHSC400

So then the 4.7 crank bolts up to the 1uz block with no modification: and the bore is the same, or is it bored a little/alot?????

I think we pretty much covered all the necessary conversation on the air intake.

A BFI how to in fine detail built with fiberglass would be super cool-- I think the final product and it's power gain is all in the hands of the builder/fabricator........

I'm still a little more interested in that 4.7 stroker how to -- I'll bet a simple safc could retune it properly and make up for whatever cam you put in it to take advantage of the size up--

Next all you need is an M-Style ITB setup with some moderate/big street cams and you got yourself about 400 hp at the crank-- no need to port the heads... at least for that much hp--

CleanCL

i've been informed the 4.7 shortblock bolts up to the stock 1uz heads. i believe the extra .7 is all stroke, no bore. tranny should bolt right up. and yes, a simple AFR tune w/ this setup i'm expecting big power all motor. my goal is 300whp n/a which i think is doable, but more importantly a nice torque curve. i have a long and meticulous build, i'm not simply doing a quick swap. i'm going all out on the motor. at the same time i'm looking to cut the car weight down to 3400 lbs or lighter. a blower/turbo setup would cost about the same, except i have the reliability of toyota parts. can't beat that. oh yea, and the blower should mount right up as well... do some search on the forums, the 4.7 has been confirmed. money permitting i may push it out to a 5.0 w/ custom pistons, but that's just a dream at the moment. as you can see from sig, this isn't the first stroker i've done.

xirforever

with your weight goals, you do realize the 1uz block is all aluminum and the 2uz block is cast iron, right? = much more heavy, and the sc is already nose heavy. gl on the build though, ill be rooting for you

CleanCL

i realize i said i would be utilizing the 2uz shortblock, but i'll be retaining my 1uz block, just changing the internals.

MJHSC400

Even better reason to look into fitting the 1UZ with a 2UZ crank-- It should work with/without little modification--

A SC470TT would be cool-- but an SC500TT --- mmmmmmmmm

300 whp with a R154 would be enough I think though-- with gears and a torsen--


When will it be fast enough????