Looking for a true Cold intake box?
12-11-06, 02:27 PM
#91
Lexus Test Driver
Sorry for the confusion-- My numbers were calculated at around 25% loss from the crank-- 240 whp/3= 80 hp loss--- so 320 at the crank, 270 tq/3= 90 loss-- 360 tq at the crank-- it's pretty close--
Keep in mind-- an untuned 4.0 makes 225-- when cammed, intake/exhaust, uni-chip tune-- Theyve seen 240 whp, over 175~ stock whp-- So a 37% increase at the rear wheels--
That means that this motor with real long tube headers, I think he has cams, and a good chip tune-- with a CAI, could make close to 300 whp like Jtucci said--
I completely agree-- and the gains will be greater with the larger displacement relative to size increase----
NICE torque increase btw!!!!
That car should run like an LS1 camaro with a shift kit-- auto for auto--
Keep in mind-- an untuned 4.0 makes 225-- when cammed, intake/exhaust, uni-chip tune-- Theyve seen 240 whp, over 175~ stock whp-- So a 37% increase at the rear wheels--
That means that this motor with real long tube headers, I think he has cams, and a good chip tune-- with a CAI, could make close to 300 whp like Jtucci said--
I completely agree-- and the gains will be greater with the larger displacement relative to size increase----
NICE torque increase btw!!!!
That car should run like an LS1 camaro with a shift kit-- auto for auto--
12-11-06, 02:33 PM
#92
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I hear you SCV8 on the MAF modifications - Yeah I gave it go and gave up, I had a spare one to toy around with...Came up bad every time with every alteration I tried.......Tuning and tweaking the MAF to perfection is no easy accompishment and should only be tried by an expert whom really know's what he or she is doing......
Xir and others - As far as this big Cone VS BFI intake discussion that has turned some what hostile, I would chime into this and say I have read about all the different intakes, the flow rates, the BFI flow and design vs. other aftermarket intakes and non can match up to the BFI...I wanted to set out and prove that an aftermarket custom intake can beat out the legendary and praised BFI intake.....
The two problems with the BFI intake that I see is #1 the air enterance flow is half arsed, they got plywood and it is not 100% sealed off and channeled just right...I think there are to many air leaks, etc.. Plus one rain storm and that wood will start to rot out...Also that wood weighs probably a few pounds more then a plastic made funnel...There can be alot of improvement there for starters.....#2 the stock air box can still be made to resist heat better...#3 Gotta delete the TB coolant line which keep the TB hot at all times...
I also think the V flow design is the best over a sucked in large pod filter like Xirforever's and my own large sized Rod Millen pod filter. The reasons being is that the pod filter still has to use the help of the engine to suck up the intake air into and thru the MAF and onto the throttle body. Now the V channeled larger funneled and channeled intake flow that is air tight and sealed off is going to produce the best pushed air flow results... A heat shield is a heat sheild we all know that, and the benefits of cold air...The pod filters allow the air to be sucked in effortlessly but does not have that push affect like the "V" design would create for you at a move or speed...
Think of it like this...Lets say your traveling at 40mph and the cold air is getting slammed into the front air intake flow departements, it is not being rammed into a pod filter but being mushed around it....The BFI with a channelled and sealed flow tube would be rammed thru and into the Airbox, filter and then thru the MAF and so on...Sealed and slammed into that is what we are trying to achieve here, not a POD filter that the Engine still needs to suck air in effortlessly....Do you guys see the difference between the two, yet? There really is no comparison when you think about it.....
Xir - Give it some thought and you surely will have to agree...And yes my Injen snorkel may not perform as well as stock but that is not %100 percent proven, I can tell you it is lighter in weight and looks a h*ll of alot better then stock...
Xir and others - As far as this big Cone VS BFI intake discussion that has turned some what hostile, I would chime into this and say I have read about all the different intakes, the flow rates, the BFI flow and design vs. other aftermarket intakes and non can match up to the BFI...I wanted to set out and prove that an aftermarket custom intake can beat out the legendary and praised BFI intake.....
The two problems with the BFI intake that I see is #1 the air enterance flow is half arsed, they got plywood and it is not 100% sealed off and channeled just right...I think there are to many air leaks, etc.. Plus one rain storm and that wood will start to rot out...Also that wood weighs probably a few pounds more then a plastic made funnel...There can be alot of improvement there for starters.....#2 the stock air box can still be made to resist heat better...#3 Gotta delete the TB coolant line which keep the TB hot at all times...
I also think the V flow design is the best over a sucked in large pod filter like Xirforever's and my own large sized Rod Millen pod filter. The reasons being is that the pod filter still has to use the help of the engine to suck up the intake air into and thru the MAF and onto the throttle body. Now the V channeled larger funneled and channeled intake flow that is air tight and sealed off is going to produce the best pushed air flow results... A heat shield is a heat sheild we all know that, and the benefits of cold air...The pod filters allow the air to be sucked in effortlessly but does not have that push affect like the "V" design would create for you at a move or speed...
Think of it like this...Lets say your traveling at 40mph and the cold air is getting slammed into the front air intake flow departements, it is not being rammed into a pod filter but being mushed around it....The BFI with a channelled and sealed flow tube would be rammed thru and into the Airbox, filter and then thru the MAF and so on...Sealed and slammed into that is what we are trying to achieve here, not a POD filter that the Engine still needs to suck air in effortlessly....Do you guys see the difference between the two, yet? There really is no comparison when you think about it.....
Xir - Give it some thought and you surely will have to agree...And yes my Injen snorkel may not perform as well as stock but that is not %100 percent proven, I can tell you it is lighter in weight and looks a h*ll of alot better then stock...
12-11-06, 03:01 PM
#94
I hear you SCV8 on the MAF modifications - Yeah I gave it go and gave up, I had a spare one to toy around with...Came up bad every time with every alteration I tried.......Tuning and tweaking the MAF to perfection is no easy accompishment and should only be tried by an expert whom really know's what he or she is doing......
Xir and others - As far as this big Cone VS BFI intake discussion that has turned some what hostile, I would chime into this and say I have read about all the different intakes, the flow rates, the BFI flow and design vs. other aftermarket intakes and non can match up to the BFI...I wanted to set out and prove that an aftermarket custom intake can beat out the legendary and praised BFI intake.....
The two problems with the BFI intake that I see is #1 the air enterance flow is half arsed, they got plywood and it is not 100% sealed off and channeled just right...I think there are to many air leaks, etc.. Plus one rain storm and that wood will start to rot out...Also that wood weighs probably a few pounds more then a plastic made funnel...There can be alot of improvement there for starters.....#2 the stock air box can still be made to resist heat better...#3 Gotta delete the TB coolant line which keep the TB hot at all times...
I also think the V flow design is the best over a sucked in large pod filter like Xirforever's and my own large sized Rod Millen pod filter. The reasons being is that the pod filter still has to use the help of the engine to suck up the intake air into and thru the MAF and onto the throttle body. Now the V channeled larger funneled and channeled intake flow that is air tight and sealed off is going to produce the best pushed air flow results... A heat shield is a heat sheild we all know that, and the benefits of cold air...The pod filters allow the air to be sucked in effortlessly but does not have that push affect like the "V" design would create for you at a move or speed...
Think of it like this...Lets say your traveling at 40mph and the cold air is getting slammed into the front air intake flow departements, it is not being rammed into a pod filter but being mushed around it....The BFI with a channelled and sealed flow tube would be rammed thru and into the Airbox, filter and then thru the MAF and so on...Sealed and slammed into that is what we are trying to achieve here, not a POD filter that the Engine still needs to suck air in effortlessly....Do you guys see the difference between the two, yet? There really is no comparison when you think about it.....
Xir - Give it some thought and you surely will have to agree...And yes my Injen snorkel may not perform as well as stock but that is not %100 percent proven, I can tell you it is lighter in weight and looks a h*ll of alot better then stock...
Xir and others - As far as this big Cone VS BFI intake discussion that has turned some what hostile, I would chime into this and say I have read about all the different intakes, the flow rates, the BFI flow and design vs. other aftermarket intakes and non can match up to the BFI...I wanted to set out and prove that an aftermarket custom intake can beat out the legendary and praised BFI intake.....
The two problems with the BFI intake that I see is #1 the air enterance flow is half arsed, they got plywood and it is not 100% sealed off and channeled just right...I think there are to many air leaks, etc.. Plus one rain storm and that wood will start to rot out...Also that wood weighs probably a few pounds more then a plastic made funnel...There can be alot of improvement there for starters.....#2 the stock air box can still be made to resist heat better...#3 Gotta delete the TB coolant line which keep the TB hot at all times...
I also think the V flow design is the best over a sucked in large pod filter like Xirforever's and my own large sized Rod Millen pod filter. The reasons being is that the pod filter still has to use the help of the engine to suck up the intake air into and thru the MAF and onto the throttle body. Now the V channeled larger funneled and channeled intake flow that is air tight and sealed off is going to produce the best pushed air flow results... A heat shield is a heat sheild we all know that, and the benefits of cold air...The pod filters allow the air to be sucked in effortlessly but does not have that push affect like the "V" design would create for you at a move or speed...
Think of it like this...Lets say your traveling at 40mph and the cold air is getting slammed into the front air intake flow departements, it is not being rammed into a pod filter but being mushed around it....The BFI with a channelled and sealed flow tube would be rammed thru and into the Airbox, filter and then thru the MAF and so on...Sealed and slammed into that is what we are trying to achieve here, not a POD filter that the Engine still needs to suck air in effortlessly....Do you guys see the difference between the two, yet? There really is no comparison when you think about it.....
Xir - Give it some thought and you surely will have to agree...And yes my Injen snorkel may not perform as well as stock but that is not %100 percent proven, I can tell you it is lighter in weight and looks a h*ll of alot better then stock...
I always wished someone showed up with a Dyno other than the BFI that said "take the stock box and tubing off, put on this, that, and the other and, gain 20 + hp but..........
Has not happened yet. That DOES exist in the Honda, Nissian, BMW, Acura, and CL GS400/430 Forum. But yet to see it in any forum for the 97 and older SC4. Heard alot of theroy but at the end of the day the bFI give 17 more HP and even worst everything else loses HP over just the plain old non BFI stock air Box.
I still think a 2 1/2 inch restrictive MAF has alot to do with it.
Glad someone sees it like it is.
Good points jibby !Xirforever RELAX !
Last edited by jgscott; 12-11-06 at 03:14 PM.
12-11-06, 03:13 PM
#95
Lexus Test Driver
If you could shortblock the motor yourself, get the crank turned to the right stroke, and get the shop you're having the work done at supply you with the right sized mains, as well as the right pistons [custom??] it would significantly decrease costs-- they could also balance the assembly for you, only leaving you to shortblock it to spec..... I guess you may need to sleeve the block too though.... Still $4000 ~ $5000 just in all that-- plus the assembly of all the parts... All for a 100 hp gain and a 110 tq gain (after cams I think)
Alltogether, kinda $$$$$$, compared to a 1JZ, where you can get that much power with a relatively small amt. of money--
Alltogether, kinda $$$$$$, compared to a 1JZ, where you can get that much power with a relatively small amt. of money--
12-11-06, 03:18 PM
#96
If you could shortblock the motor yourself, get the crank turned to the right stroke, and get the shop you're having the work done at supply you with the right sized mains, as well as the right pistons [custom??] it would significantly decrease costs-- they could also balance the assembly for you, only leaving you to shortblock it to spec..... I guess you may need to sleeve the block too though.... Still $4000 ~ $5000 just in all that-- plus the assembly of all the parts... All for a 100 hp gain and a 110 tq gain (after cams I think)
Alltogether, kinda $$$$$$, compared to a 1JZ, where you can get that much power with a relatively small amt. of money--
Alltogether, kinda $$$$$$, compared to a 1JZ, where you can get that much power with a relatively small amt. of money--
12-11-06, 08:58 PM
#98
Lexus Test Driver
I've spoken with the guys at Colt Cams and he can regrind all 4 plus provide you with the shims you need to re-shim to existing tolerances-- so if your clearances are good this setup will retain clearances--
A moderate cam won't need heavier springs, only a much higher lift cam will, but that's still only springs and retainers--
I'm not sure on what springs and retainers cost, [I think you can use some 2JZ springs/retainers-- maybe watch the supra forums] but if they regrind your cams for you, it'll cost you $580 + springs/retainers if they're a radical lift profile.
A moderate cam won't need heavier springs, only a much higher lift cam will, but that's still only springs and retainers--
I'm not sure on what springs and retainers cost, [I think you can use some 2JZ springs/retainers-- maybe watch the supra forums] but if they regrind your cams for you, it'll cost you $580 + springs/retainers if they're a radical lift profile.
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