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which parts for Starter Rebuild ?

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Old 01-15-07, 05:11 PM
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Eggman
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Default which parts for Starter Rebuild ?

anyone know which parts i need to rebuild my sc300-2jzge-manual-trans-starter?

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=5&catalogid=1
Old 01-15-07, 05:45 PM
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salimshah
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The things that go bad are typically the brushes (assembly 5) and bearings. Armature, would need good cleaning and turning if necessary. Contacts on the solenoid can also go bad.

In some cased the winding insulation can go bad and specialized equipement is needed.

Usually getting a rebuilt one is a better option.

Salim
Old 01-15-07, 06:11 PM
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O. L. T.
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Why isn't this in the engine forum?
Old 01-15-07, 06:12 PM
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Eggman
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Originally Posted by O. L. T.
Why isn't this in the engine forum?
d'oh. got caught slippin...
Old 01-15-07, 06:13 PM
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O. L. T.
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'tis ok, I installed non slip pads and moved
Old 01-15-07, 07:30 PM
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MJHSC400
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I think these guys can help you with the parts you need for a good price--- I just got some other parts for an alternator from them--

They're super knowledgeable and have been around since the 1930's--

They supply a fair amount of the individual rebuilders out there-- Chances are they can tell you about the problem areas on your specific starter--
Old 01-15-07, 08:31 PM
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mitsuguy
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um, aren't starters pretty cheap??? i'd have to look it up (tomorrow), but last I checked, they weren't expensive...
Old 01-15-07, 08:42 PM
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MJHSC400
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Yes they are cheap, but most likely the only bad parts are the ones salimshah listed, which are probably $25 all together-- Much cheaper than buying a starter that is remanufactured (ie: used) with probably the exact same parts, or maybe even cheaper parts to maximize profit--

BUT-- If the SC is the only wheels you got-- it's a tossup, I hear the starter is a pain to change anyhow-- you may as well do a valve job while you've got the manifold off-- and install headers after you pull the heads off, and change the timing belt while you're at it--
Old 01-15-07, 10:36 PM
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Eggman
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Originally Posted by MJHSC400
...I hear the starter is a pain to change anyhow-- you may as well do a valve job while you've got the manifold off-- and install headers after you pull the heads off, and change the timing belt while you're at it--
are you serious? its a sc300... i havent heard that its impossible to pull the starter without pulling other stuff.

btw, the rebuild kit is $30. reman piece is $130. oem is about $175 online. i figure if i'm gonna get all dirty taking it out, might as well try to rebuild it myself too.
Old 01-16-07, 10:38 AM
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MJHSC400
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Oh, sorry, I have an SC400, that's what I was thinking about--

Yeah, a $30 kit sounds about right-- The bearings should still be good for another 20 years-- since the starter only spins a very small time of it's life--
Old 01-17-07, 07:50 AM
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salimshah
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Once you have the starter pulled, smell for burnt insulation. If worn brushes are the only problem, then rebuild should be successful. Cleaning the sucker is no fun as the powdered carbon goes every where. If you try to clean the bearings, you dislodge the permanent lube. That is the reason to replace the bearings and not the wear.

Keep in mind that massive amount of current, in a non-spinning starter can smoke the insulation. When a shop rebuilds the starter, they put the stator and the armature on a test jig that works like transformer and the bad part would become magnatised ... blah blah blah ...

If you rebuild, test it quite a bit before re-installing.

The puppy should spin right up and quite fast under no-load. Look for signs of smoke etc. [how fast is good? typically you learn by experience]

Do auto shops test a starter?

Wish you luck.

Salim
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