O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

This is a solid fix for the problem of the leaking valve. The variable power assist doesn't do a thing for me. Long as it works, doesn't leak, and doesn't cost me more than $3.30 to fix I'm fine with it. I have full power assist, no leaks, and full pockets.

PS- just incase someone thinks they can plug the valve openings and go..... it won't work. I tried it.

The fluid blows the caps right off even when zip tied. Here are the two outputs with rubber caps. This does NOT work.

Supra Dr

iTrader: (14)

LOL, I'm frugal .......... but LOL!!

So you have full time assist w/ this set up right? Its gotta be twitchey
@ high speed....I know you can drive. Its the others reading this I worry about.

Congrats on another O. L. T. DIY!!

96gti2.0t

yeah i know i thought i was but you def. take the cake just stay safe man

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

it drives PERFECTLY NORMAL! I've been hammering on it for almost 2 weeks with no change in how it drives normally. (remember I have 2 sc's and a very good point of reference)

Supra Dr

iTrader: (14)

Well so which is it?? 3 hands to parallel park or 2 fingers on the highway.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

it's perfect. just like normal.

Supra Dr

iTrader: (14)

So whats the point of the switch?
On camrys, etc. there's no assist during parking manuvers.

SLEXC400

Actually, the switch serves to increase the idle speed when the steering wheel is at the full right or left positions. The pump is at it's max pressure at those positions and the switch opens to allow the vacuum bypass around the throttle plate, increasing idle speed with the engine being at max pump load.

But I have a question. I definitely have a leak in my switch because I noticed power steering fluid inside the hose when I pulled it off the intake (actually it broke because it was so brittle). I plan to bypass the switch using O. L. T.'s method (great idea by the way!). But there is fluid all around the vacuum lines at the switch itself and I have been having to add fluid lately. Has anyone seen this happen when the switch fails? I'm hoping this is my only problem (and not the pump itself). I pulled the pump today, along with the alternator. I had been getting an intermittent battery light and I suspected a "slimed" alternator. There was definitely a film on it, but I'm replacing it because the brushes were worn down pretty far and one of the slip rings on the rotor was badly grooved. My pump was overhauled about 6 years ago and it doesn't look like it's leaking --- a lot of fluid was on the little vacuum lines connected to the switch though. Any experiences from fellow Lexus owners?

Thanks in advance for your replies!

JohnEd

iTrader: (1)

The "UP-IDLE PERFORATION PROBLEM" is a common one. At least to my Lex service dept. They stock the item and they stock precious little. It is common. They gave me a plug to put in and make sure my leak was comming from there before I went long for the $100 up switch.

You might be able to get this from the TOY dealer for less. Don't know.

The plug is the answer.

John

SLEXC400

I stopped by my Lexus repair shop yesterday and went ahead and picked up the seal kit for the power steering pump. I figured that I might as well go ahead and overhaul it while I had it off the car. I did the overhaul last night and will reinstall it along with the new (180 amp) alternator when it comes in later this week. The overhaul wasn't too bad --- just a bit tedious. The guy at my shop said they had never plugged the idle-up switch port before. He said they just replace the switch (not surprising from a repair shop). He says they keep the switches in stock and I can run by there if I need one. But since it runs around 100 dollars, I'm definitely gonna try the plug thing. I picked up an M14-1.50 oil drain plug from Advance Auto Parts and I found a rubber cap in my garage that you use when you want to plug a water pump heater connection when you have a bad heater core. I cut a little disc out of it to plug the port before I put in the bolt. I may put some teflon tape on the threads as a back-up for the plug. I definitely DO NOT want any more power steering leaks! I will keep everybody posted. In the meantime, has anyone else done the idle-up switch bypass thing? If so, how did you do it?

Thanks!

SLEX

JohnEd

iTrader: (1)

I took out my switch, actually a vac valve, and cracked the plastic housing off with a hammer. I then drove out the guts with a drift and a bigger hammer. I had a friend weld up the end that doesnt screw into the hole. The hole end is a hyd fitting. The weld held and I have no leak. The stuff with the plug seems iffy to me as the hyd sys has 1,000 psi in it and "real" hyd fittings are a must. My mod was to the exterior end and didn't upset the hi pressure fitting end. THERE IS NO PLUG FROM A MFR!

If you have this problem you probably also have an alternator problem cooking. The fluid gets into the brush and then the brush acts like a cutting tool and ruins your slip rings. The good news is that the brush and new slip rings are available at your local alt rebuilder. Take in the alt dissasembled so he just has to r&r the slip rings and you get out of there for 50-60 bucks.

John

SLEXC400

It's been about a month since I did the overhail on the power steering pump and replaced the alternator. Everything has been perfect. The plugged high pressure port on the power steering pump does not leak at all and I don't notice any drop in engine RPM when the engine is loaded down from the pump. So if you decide to go the route of plugging off the port, that works fine too ...

sonoramike

a quick bump to see if the workaround is still in place and working?

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Of course it works it's a steel plug.

SLEXC400

Yep! Still dry as a bone. And as I said before, I don't notice any drop in engine RPM when the pump is loaded. Definitely the way to go ...