'93 SC4 CRANKS, but engine would not turn over, HELP!
03-02-07, 03:29 AM
#16
Just swapped out the fuel pump ECU... still no go. I cant hear the pump PERIOD when i turn on my key to the ON position... even with my rear seats out. How often do these pumps go out? and do they do so erratically like that? on and off type of thing? before they do for good?
Car is finally in my garage... however, its not starting... any more suggestions?
Car is finally in my garage... however, its not starting... any more suggestions?
Last edited by GRAND_LS 4; 03-02-07 at 03:33 AM.
03-02-07, 08:11 AM
#17
If you cranked this much and still no start and fuel is comming in. You have prolly flooded your plugs. Take out your plugs, with no plugs in the car let it sit so any excess fuel can evaporate and then put new plugs in.
I would check for spark also. I doubt its a fuel problem.
Take out ur plugs if u smell alot of fuel on it, then prolly that ur problem there.
I would check for spark also. I doubt its a fuel problem.
Take out ur plugs if u smell alot of fuel on it, then prolly that ur problem there.
03-02-07, 08:13 AM
#18
Just swapped out the fuel pump ECU... still no go. I cant hear the pump PERIOD when i turn on my key to the ON position... even with my rear seats out. How often do these pumps go out? and do they do so erratically like that? on and off type of thing? before they do for good?
Car is finally in my garage... however, its not starting... any more suggestions?
Car is finally in my garage... however, its not starting... any more suggestions?
03-02-07, 03:06 PM
#19
If you cranked this much and still no start and fuel is comming in. You have prolly flooded your plugs. Take out your plugs, with no plugs in the car let it sit so any excess fuel can evaporate and then put new plugs in.
I would check for spark also. I doubt its a fuel problem.
Take out ur plugs if u smell alot of fuel on it, then prolly that ur problem there.
I would check for spark also. I doubt its a fuel problem.
Take out ur plugs if u smell alot of fuel on it, then prolly that ur problem there.
How can I jump 12V to the pump? please do elaborate. Doesnt the SC's pump usually make noise when the ignition is turned to the ON position?
03-02-07, 04:47 PM
#20
UPDATE.........
I tried to jump it (battery was fine prior to jump, and was only cranking)
and it started just fine. Now it will only start if I connect the jumper cables to my other car. I have no idea why. Battery is fine, and all the accessories work flawlessly and it cranks nice and hard... anyone got a clue whats causing this?
Any help is appreciated.
I tried to jump it (battery was fine prior to jump, and was only cranking)
and it started just fine. Now it will only start if I connect the jumper cables to my other car. I have no idea why. Battery is fine, and all the accessories work flawlessly and it cranks nice and hard... anyone got a clue whats causing this?
Any help is appreciated.
Last edited by GRAND_LS 4; 03-02-07 at 05:21 PM.
03-02-07, 07:35 PM
#21
that is wierd, the only other thing that comes to mind is you have a bad ground or a faulty pump.
I would get new connectors for the batteries, but the wierd thing is if there is no voltage draw then your starter wouldnt work also, since it takes alot of the power.
There is a diagnostics port (small black plastic piece) in the engine bay open it, on the SC3 it near the throttle body. Take a paper clip and jump +B to FP and try it again with the jumper cables.
NOW does it crank with no jumper cables
I would get new connectors for the batteries, but the wierd thing is if there is no voltage draw then your starter wouldnt work also, since it takes alot of the power.
There is a diagnostics port (small black plastic piece) in the engine bay open it, on the SC3 it near the throttle body. Take a paper clip and jump +B to FP and try it again with the jumper cables.
NOW does it crank with no jumper cables
03-06-07, 10:47 AM
#22
that is wierd, the only other thing that comes to mind is you have a bad ground or a faulty pump.
I would get new connectors for the batteries, but the wierd thing is if there is no voltage draw then your starter wouldnt work also, since it takes alot of the power.
There is a diagnostics port (small black plastic piece) in the engine bay open it, on the SC3 it near the throttle body. Take a paper clip and jump +B to FP and try it again with the jumper cables.
NOW does it crank with no jumper cables
I would get new connectors for the batteries, but the wierd thing is if there is no voltage draw then your starter wouldnt work also, since it takes alot of the power.
There is a diagnostics port (small black plastic piece) in the engine bay open it, on the SC3 it near the throttle body. Take a paper clip and jump +B to FP and try it again with the jumper cables.
NOW does it crank with no jumper cables
its BEEN cranking without jumper cables... just wont start. ANyhow... Today I jumped it from my other car, and it started. At first, I had to keep my foot on the gas so it wouldnt shut off... but after a spin around the block, it idled on its on. There were some hiccups... and it didnt seem very normal, but it iddled nevertheless. So i thought i run to the gas station and add some gas (1mile away).
On the way back... car goes into limp mode, and my cats started smoking... at this point, I have no idea where to start changing parts. Coils? spark plugs? spark plug wires? crank sensor?
Oh yeah, no check engine light.
03-06-07, 11:11 AM
#23
if there is no check engine light then it is not your sensors, the way u describe it, sounds like a fuel issue. your FP is dying a slow and painful death get a new one they are not expensive and its so easy to do. When my pump would go bad on me when it heated up or i used it for more than 15 minutes and all the stuff u describes atrted happenning, idled fine but no power when u accelerated, u think its limp mode but its not enough fuel and ur engine timing retarding itself to save the engine
change ur pump
change ur pump
03-06-07, 02:39 PM
#24
if there is no check engine light then it is not your sensors, the way u describe it, sounds like a fuel issue. your FP is dying a slow and painful death get a new one they are not expensive and its so easy to do. When my pump would go bad on me when it heated up or i used it for more than 15 minutes and all the stuff u describes atrted happenning, idled fine but no power when u accelerated, u think its limp mode but its not enough fuel and ur engine timing retarding itself to save the engine
change ur pump
change ur pump
Today I started the car again, and it appeard to be in what i thought was limp mode from the start. The car feels very weak, yet somewhat still smooth. Anyway i can be sure its the Fuel pump just to be sure?
03-09-07, 02:40 PM
#25
Well... I've noticed the car is running rich... and idling worse, and i can smell unburned gas coming out from the exhaust. So I went ahead and changed the coils... and still nothing. Anything else other then fuel pump, and fuel pump ECU???
How about the fuel regulator? I mean when I jump it from my other car, I can hear something moving in the engine... and then starts right up... if thats any help. Sounds like it could be fuel moving through? I dont know.
Please help... I really need to get this car moving.
How about the fuel regulator? I mean when I jump it from my other car, I can hear something moving in the engine... and then starts right up... if thats any help. Sounds like it could be fuel moving through? I dont know.
Please help... I really need to get this car moving.
Last edited by GRAND_LS 4; 03-09-07 at 03:09 PM.
03-09-07, 03:07 PM
#27
However, the reason I changed the coils was due to the fact of the exhaust smelling like unburned gas. That’s why I assumed the coils might be bad, and thought I try first.
EDIT: sorry when i said I connect it to my other car, I meant jump it from another car's battery.
03-09-07, 04:10 PM
#28
Why buy a new pump, any Fuel Pump will work borrow one from ur other cars, or if your neighbours pump is accessable then try that, It takes me 10 minutes to takes it out, the only hard part is the seats but that easy also.
I never heard of Fuel pressure regulators going bad, if you dont think its the fuel Pump otehrwise it could be electrical bad ground spliced wire etc.
I never heard of Fuel pressure regulators going bad, if you dont think its the fuel Pump otehrwise it could be electrical bad ground spliced wire etc.
03-16-07, 10:50 AM
#29
OK, took out the fuel pump and tested it, and it ran fine. Problem lies elsewhere. I replaced the driver side distributer and rotor, and now I’m going to replace wires, along with the passenger side distributer and rotor. Pulled cylinder 7's wire and it was broken (closet wire to the driver's seat) not sure if it broke while i was pulling it out, or from before, so im changing it anyhow) This thing is driving me insane. Anyone else run into something like this?
I'm this close from towing it to the dealer (this is equivalent to suicide on a car this old), but please tell me theres another way...
The car was sitting in a body shop for some time, and it leaks oil slowly (from where the trans and engine join (forgot the name))... which ground points would be affected?? It really sounds like a grounding issue... just not sure which ground point to check.
I'm this close from towing it to the dealer (this is equivalent to suicide on a car this old), but please tell me theres another way...
The car was sitting in a body shop for some time, and it leaks oil slowly (from where the trans and engine join (forgot the name))... which ground points would be affected?? It really sounds like a grounding issue... just not sure which ground point to check.
Last edited by GRAND_LS 4; 03-16-07 at 10:56 AM.
03-16-07, 06:15 PM
#30
UPDATE
We'll, worked on the car for 10hours... got lots of work done. Changed the distributors, rotors, and wires. As it turns out, one or more wires were broken, which caused the bad idling. The car still does NOT start on its own, but when it does, it runs smoooooothly 100% now. So now, I fixed part of it. Still have the starting issue to deal with.
I REALLY NEED your help guys. Seems like no one I know, or seen the car can figure it out. Sounds like its a ground somewhere... but I dont know where. Problem is, i can bet my bottom dollar its a very small issue... just waiting to be fixed so I can have this car up and running.
THanks!
We'll, worked on the car for 10hours... got lots of work done. Changed the distributors, rotors, and wires. As it turns out, one or more wires were broken, which caused the bad idling. The car still does NOT start on its own, but when it does, it runs smoooooothly 100% now. So now, I fixed part of it. Still have the starting issue to deal with.
I REALLY NEED your help guys. Seems like no one I know, or seen the car can figure it out. Sounds like its a ground somewhere... but I dont know where. Problem is, i can bet my bottom dollar its a very small issue... just waiting to be fixed so I can have this car up and running.
THanks!