SC 400 Air Conditioning Service Info Needed
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Hi:
The refridgerant in my a/c system has leaked out and I would like to repair it - properly. I will open all the connections to replace the o-rings, flush the compressor and some lines, and seal everything back up with Nylog.
Some questions:
- Does anyone know what is involved to remove the compressor?
- Are there any o-ring connections besides those in the front of the car?
- Does the a/c system use an o-tube or expansion valve?
Please post your information and experiences.
Thanks.
The refridgerant in my a/c system has leaked out and I would like to repair it - properly. I will open all the connections to replace the o-rings, flush the compressor and some lines, and seal everything back up with Nylog.
Some questions:
- Does anyone know what is involved to remove the compressor?
- Are there any o-ring connections besides those in the front of the car?
- Does the a/c system use an o-tube or expansion valve?
Please post your information and experiences.
Thanks.
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Have you heard of 406a? It's a direct replacement of R12-- but a little colder, and much colder than R134 yet around the same price--
This means, you keep all hoses, etc-- without need for barrier hoses or different condenser--
I'm working on this issue myself-- after I swapped the steering rack the refrigerant was mysteriously gone--
Should be a fun job --
Also-- autofrost/406a is MUCH cheaper when leak testing your system than R12-- AND -- it's environmentally friendly-
There's actually a very interesting story behind why the auto repair industry chose not to use 406a and went to R134 instead when environmental regulations tightened up-- The stuff was designed to work better than r12 in the same system-- Retrofits to r134 meant huge $$$$ for the company selling it -- (Dupont anyone??) -- Such a massive company surely couldn't have any leverage with the EPA now could they??![Cool](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
A side note:
ACKITS.com -- a very very good place to buy seals, compressors, condensors, hoses, driers, and all your other needs for very inexpensive-- Their forum is also a WEALTH of information--
This means, you keep all hoses, etc-- without need for barrier hoses or different condenser--
I'm working on this issue myself-- after I swapped the steering rack the refrigerant was mysteriously gone--
Should be a fun job --
Also-- autofrost/406a is MUCH cheaper when leak testing your system than R12-- AND -- it's environmentally friendly-
There's actually a very interesting story behind why the auto repair industry chose not to use 406a and went to R134 instead when environmental regulations tightened up-- The stuff was designed to work better than r12 in the same system-- Retrofits to r134 meant huge $$$$ for the company selling it -- (Dupont anyone??) -- Such a massive company surely couldn't have any leverage with the EPA now could they??
![Cool](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
A side note:
ACKITS.com -- a very very good place to buy seals, compressors, condensors, hoses, driers, and all your other needs for very inexpensive-- Their forum is also a WEALTH of information--
#7
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autofrost.com is a good starting point-
It can be mixed-- but has retrofit fittings and different can taps that work together with special fittings for gauges-- something like that--
I don't understand why you couldn't just use a std. can tap for r12/r134 and std. gauges though--
So I guess it seems it would be totally possible to use all original parts and just use a clamp style can tap that punctures the side of the can-- seems like that would get around using special fittings and such-
I've also seen 406a on ebay from time to time--
I think you need a license to buy it, but surely you can find a shop to buy some for you-- That's what I'll try to do when I get to that point...
I just havent ran across the time or money to tackle this job and I definitely don't want to use R12 to find this monster leak I've got-- That crap is $20 per can!!
It can be mixed-- but has retrofit fittings and different can taps that work together with special fittings for gauges-- something like that--
I don't understand why you couldn't just use a std. can tap for r12/r134 and std. gauges though--
So I guess it seems it would be totally possible to use all original parts and just use a clamp style can tap that punctures the side of the can-- seems like that would get around using special fittings and such-
I've also seen 406a on ebay from time to time--
I think you need a license to buy it, but surely you can find a shop to buy some for you-- That's what I'll try to do when I get to that point...
I just havent ran across the time or money to tackle this job and I definitely don't want to use R12 to find this monster leak I've got-- That crap is $20 per can!!
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if you replace with 406, you will have troubles finding a reputable shop to work on your a/c system... problem is, you have to have a gauge set for each type of refrigerant that you use - r-12 and hcf-134a are the most common, so they are what you'll find in the repair industry... we carry R-12 in stock... I had a leaky gasket on the manifold set, and we were able to find it with compressed air (100 psi), repair, then evac / recharge...
#9
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Yeah, I'll try that-- so when you rebuild and reseal, you just can't cut corners- you have to nylog all your seals and double check everything-- The good thing is you don't have to totally clean every orifice of the whole system with denatured alcohol to retrofit-- That's the primary reason I don't want to mess with anything but either r12 or 406a--
If a system is done right it should work for 10+ years with very little maintenance--
If a system is done right it should work for 10+ years with very little maintenance--
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Yeah, I'll try that-- so when you rebuild and reseal, you just can't cut corners- you have to nylog all your seals and double check everything-- The good thing is you don't have to totally clean every orifice of the whole system with denatured alcohol to retrofit-- That's the primary reason I don't want to mess with anything but either r12 or 406a--
If a system is done right it should work for 10+ years with very little maintenance--
If a system is done right it should work for 10+ years with very little maintenance--
our systems were just not meant for 134... 134 requires a bigger condenser for one, not to mention barrier hoses, different oil, etc...
never used Nylog - never had to... OE systems don't have it... I'm sure it doesn't hurt, but I wouldn't consider it a necessity...
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so use air... just normal, compressed air... you have to have a drier on the feed, but we use compressed air to find leaks in R-12 a/c systems...
if you replace with 406, you will have troubles finding a reputable shop to work on your a/c system... problem is, you have to have a gauge set for each type of refrigerant that you use - r-12 and hcf-134a are the most common, so they are what you'll find in the repair industry... we carry R-12 in stock... I had a leaky gasket on the manifold set, and we were able to find it with compressed air (100 psi), repair, then evac / recharge...
if you replace with 406, you will have troubles finding a reputable shop to work on your a/c system... problem is, you have to have a gauge set for each type of refrigerant that you use - r-12 and hcf-134a are the most common, so they are what you'll find in the repair industry... we carry R-12 in stock... I had a leaky gasket on the manifold set, and we were able to find it with compressed air (100 psi), repair, then evac / recharge...
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I did a search on Carquest and couldn't come up with that part...but I had an "Asian" o-ring kit from ACkits and they said the gasket for the compressor manifold should be in it.
I snapped a picture of what I thought could be the possible gaskets needed. Do any of these look like the right one(s)?
![](http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t119/heyspeedracer/DSC00083.jpg)