Remote mount turbo build
06-17-07, 09:50 AM
#16
I agree. I left the scene for a while and came back and there were so many fast imports out it made my head spin. There's not a whole lot of streetcar domestics around here that are REALLY fast. There's a ton at the track but they arent street cars; and I presume when the new Earnhardt Jr track metropolis gets built in northern Mobile county that its gonna get real crazy.
I think the fastest one that rolled through a couple months ago was a TT Viper that supposedly made 900whp. He made the mistake of running around on street-tires and low boost. My friend's 600whp 280z ate him for breakfast. The automatic tranny and drag radials didnt hurt either
I think the fastest one that rolled through a couple months ago was a TT Viper that supposedly made 900whp. He made the mistake of running around on street-tires and low boost. My friend's 600whp 280z ate him for breakfast. The automatic tranny and drag radials didnt hurt either
In San Antonio, an acquaintance of mine has a Supercharged, stroked, plus nitrous Viper, maxes out a 1200 hp dyno at 3500 rpm... drives on drag radials all the time... crazy fast car...
06-17-07, 02:17 PM
#18
Dang it! my auto tranny started jerking and I lost second gear. It might be a solenoid problem. Ugh! I have to fix this first before I move on... Or I might just swap a manual tranny.
I know that the w58 is not as strong as r154 but hey, they're dirt cheap. I read in lextreme, inorder to do this, you have to use a 3sgte flywheel mounted backwards with beveled teeth and a hilux clutch. So does this set up bolt on with the bell housing? (should I make a separate thread on this?)
I know that the w58 is not as strong as r154 but hey, they're dirt cheap. I read in lextreme, inorder to do this, you have to use a 3sgte flywheel mounted backwards with beveled teeth and a hilux clutch. So does this set up bolt on with the bell housing? (should I make a separate thread on this?)
Many MKIII guys struggle to get rid of their R154's. While there are modifications necessary to allow the Supra R154 shifter to fit properly, it is probably significantly cheaper than trying to source an ultra rare Soarer/Chaser R154. The R154 will also hold twice the power of the W58.
All things considered:
With the magnitude of the turbo project on your hands, I would source another SC400 auto from Aliga for super cheap and swap it in. Both the turbo SC4 and manual SC4 projects are ones that require your full attention. I would do one or the other, and then move on. Given that you have already started to acquire parts for the turbo project, I would get that done first. To do that most easily, I would grab an SC auto and be done with it; swap the manual later.
Just my humble opinion...
06-17-07, 03:27 PM
#19
Where are you planning to remote mount your turbo on your SC400? There is not a lot of room anywhere on the car. It will not fit where the cats are unless you modify the floor board considerably. There is still little room even where the exhausts are. Be sure to measure the dimensions of your location, and compare to the dimensions and placement of the turbo. If not, it will not work. YHou can do a low mount on the SC430, but the sump is designed totally different than on the SC400. So, it is tough to find a space anywhere underneath.
Ryan
Ryan
I decided to start my remote mount turbo project. So far I have been acquiring parts to complete the kit. My plan is to boost 8 psi with stock fuel system and tune it with SAFC.
Currently, I have:
SAFC (installed)
wastegate
bov
FMIC
t3/t70 turbo
MAF adaptor (installed)
Oil pump
all I need are oil lines and charge pipes and I'm good to go.
Currently, I have:
SAFC (installed)
wastegate
bov
FMIC
t3/t70 turbo
MAF adaptor (installed)
Oil pump
all I need are oil lines and charge pipes and I'm good to go.
06-17-07, 03:37 PM
#20
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I have heard that the W58 conversion interferes with the stock catalytic converters. However, if you are going with a turbo set up -remote at that- this is probably not going to present an issue. That being said, since you are going with a turbo, especially with the torque of the V8, you could quickly be pushing the vertical limits of the W58 (~400wtq).
Many MKIII guys struggle to get rid of their R154's. While there are modifications necessary to allow the Supra R154 shifter to fit properly, it is probably significantly cheaper than trying to source an ultra rare Soarer/Chaser R154. The R154 will also hold twice the power of the W58.
All things considered:
With the magnitude of the turbo project on your hands, I would source another SC400 auto from Aliga for super cheap and swap it in. Both the turbo SC4 and manual SC4 projects are ones that require your full attention. I would do one or the other, and then move on. Given that you have already started to acquire parts for the turbo project, I would get that done first. To do that most easily, I would grab an SC auto and be done with it; swap the manual later.
Just my humble opinion...
Many MKIII guys struggle to get rid of their R154's. While there are modifications necessary to allow the Supra R154 shifter to fit properly, it is probably significantly cheaper than trying to source an ultra rare Soarer/Chaser R154. The R154 will also hold twice the power of the W58.
All things considered:
With the magnitude of the turbo project on your hands, I would source another SC400 auto from Aliga for super cheap and swap it in. Both the turbo SC4 and manual SC4 projects are ones that require your full attention. I would do one or the other, and then move on. Given that you have already started to acquire parts for the turbo project, I would get that done first. To do that most easily, I would grab an SC auto and be done with it; swap the manual later.
Just my humble opinion...
06-17-07, 03:39 PM
#21
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Where are you planning to remote mount your turbo on your SC400? There is not a lot of room anywhere on the car. It will not fit where the cats are unless you modify the floor board considerably. There is still little room even where the exhausts are. Be sure to measure the dimensions of your location, and compare to the dimensions and placement of the turbo. If not, it will not work. YHou can do a low mount on the SC430, but the sump is designed totally different than on the SC400. So, it is tough to find a space anywhere underneath.
Ryan
Ryan
06-17-07, 03:44 PM
#22
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I just noticed that my tranny shifts second when I drive it cold. Once it warms up, thats the time it wouldnt shift and the O/D light starts to blink. Its for the second solenoid. Simple fix or do I a new tranny?
06-17-07, 04:10 PM
#23
that is a pretty clever position to allow easy weather proofing, but...
you lose efficiency with every inch of pipe that is run from the exhaust manifolds and to the intake manifold.
I will be curious to see how your proposed set up will work. Aside from the many feet of 3" pipe that will be required, you should save yourself a pretty penny over the more canonical set up.
06-19-07, 03:01 PM
#25
A 2800lb car?
Thats not all that light. My S13 wighed in at 2543lbs at the track with half a tank of gas and nothing removed. I think the best starting point is a Factory5 Cobra kit car (sub 2000lbs). RX-7s kinda got left in the dust recently didnt they?
06-22-07, 12:05 AM
#26
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NAPA has shift solenoids!
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...d=8&SubCatId=5
Once I install this, I can start on the build.
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...d=8&SubCatId=5
Once I install this, I can start on the build.
06-22-07, 02:22 AM
#27
NAPA has shift solenoids!
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...d=8&SubCatId=5
Once I install this, I can start on the build.
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...d=8&SubCatId=5
Once I install this, I can start on the build.
06-22-07, 06:08 AM
#28
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Sounds like a cool project; the STS kits seem to make pretty good power for the domestic guys. Just a few comments...
I'm not so sure that you need a FMIC with a turbo of that size at that boost. One of the problems with remote-mount turbos is pressure loss through the extensive charge piping. More piping equates more volume that needs to be filled.
A FMIC will creat more volume that needs to be filled with compressed air which will contribute further to lag and pressure loss. The additional charge piping required for the remote mount actually functions as an intercooler to some degree.
Here is an interesting FAQ at STS...
http://www.ststurbo.com/f_a_q
I'm not so sure that you need a FMIC with a turbo of that size at that boost. One of the problems with remote-mount turbos is pressure loss through the extensive charge piping. More piping equates more volume that needs to be filled.
A FMIC will creat more volume that needs to be filled with compressed air which will contribute further to lag and pressure loss. The additional charge piping required for the remote mount actually functions as an intercooler to some degree.
Here is an interesting FAQ at STS...
http://www.ststurbo.com/f_a_q
06-22-07, 07:31 AM
#29
The FMIC wont create THAT much more volume would it? I mean the turbo already has to fill all that pipe already; whats another 24x6x3"? 100rpms?
I'd take the FMIC just for piece of mind; especially if you decide to run 10-12psi or something; you'll most definitely need a fmic
I'd take the FMIC just for piece of mind; especially if you decide to run 10-12psi or something; you'll most definitely need a fmic
06-22-07, 08:54 AM
#30
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I think it depends on boost, as you said. My logic is that since the charge piping is that much longer, the compressed air has time to be cooled by air passing under the car at speed.
From the STS FAQ...
From the STS FAQ...
How efficient is the intercooling from your tubing?
At 5 to 6 psi we typically get at least 50% intercooler efficiency numbers from our systems and some of the truck systems which have better exposure to cold air are even better. Combine this with a pressure drop of only about 1/4 to 3/4 psi and it makes for very good numbers.
Testing on our LS1 produced the following results:
Turbo outlet temps at 5 psi boost were 175F and intake temps were 115F which is about 52% efficient.
Turbo outlet temps at 8 psi boost were 225F. This is a 50F increase with only 3 psi added to turbocharger boost.
For those wanting to run more boost we recommend a front mounted intercooler. We sell bolt-on solutions for the Hemi and the GTO. We will be coming out with more applications soon.
At 5 to 6 psi we typically get at least 50% intercooler efficiency numbers from our systems and some of the truck systems which have better exposure to cold air are even better. Combine this with a pressure drop of only about 1/4 to 3/4 psi and it makes for very good numbers.
Testing on our LS1 produced the following results:
Turbo outlet temps at 5 psi boost were 175F and intake temps were 115F which is about 52% efficient.
Turbo outlet temps at 8 psi boost were 225F. This is a 50F increase with only 3 psi added to turbocharger boost.
For those wanting to run more boost we recommend a front mounted intercooler. We sell bolt-on solutions for the Hemi and the GTO. We will be coming out with more applications soon.