SC300 12v Fuel Mod w/ Pictures - FAQ
09-23-11, 04:22 PM
#152
Those of you doing this mod, please dont cheap out and use wire nuts or butt-connectors. Do it once, and do it right. Solder and heat-tube it. There is a good area around the connection to ground out on and cause issues if the connection isnt solid.
12-27-11, 08:15 PM
#153
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quick question.. this mod was done on my sc and i still have no clue how the cables melted. can someone explain to me what happened? my old pump still works but i bought a walbro 255 cause i thought the old one had taken a dump.
12-30-11, 11:16 AM
#155
1JZ Single SC400
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I just reread this entire thread from start to finish.
I need some clarification on this issue. No one answered this directly, just their past experiences. Everyone is chiming in on their problems, then no results form the problem.
I am doing the 1JZ swap into the 400. I am getting ready real soon to start it up. I currently have the 12 volt mod with the TT stock fuel pump in my tank. I have read where some have done this, and some have not. Some have posted to leave it and it will not run without it, and some are saying to undo it due to vapor locking the motor and the fuel pump NOT shutting off.
Can anyone from EXPERIENCE WITH THIS, CHIME IN!!!
I DONT WANT TO RUIN A MOTOR OR MY SETUP...
I need some clarification on this issue. No one answered this directly, just their past experiences. Everyone is chiming in on their problems, then no results form the problem.
I am doing the 1JZ swap into the 400. I am getting ready real soon to start it up. I currently have the 12 volt mod with the TT stock fuel pump in my tank. I have read where some have done this, and some have not. Some have posted to leave it and it will not run without it, and some are saying to undo it due to vapor locking the motor and the fuel pump NOT shutting off.
Can anyone from EXPERIENCE WITH THIS, CHIME IN!!!
I DONT WANT TO RUIN A MOTOR OR MY SETUP...
12-31-11, 06:11 AM
#156
I just reread this entire thread from start to finish.
I need some clarification on this issue. No one answered this directly, just their past experiences. Everyone is chiming in on their problems, then no results form the problem.
I am doing the 1JZ swap into the 400. I am getting ready real soon to start it up. I currently have the 12 volt mod with the TT stock fuel pump in my tank. I have read where some have done this, and some have not. Some have posted to leave it and it will not run without it, and some are saying to undo it due to vapor locking the motor and the fuel pump NOT shutting off.
Can anyone from EXPERIENCE WITH THIS, CHIME IN!!!
I DONT WANT TO RUIN A MOTOR OR MY SETUP...
I need some clarification on this issue. No one answered this directly, just their past experiences. Everyone is chiming in on their problems, then no results form the problem.
I am doing the 1JZ swap into the 400. I am getting ready real soon to start it up. I currently have the 12 volt mod with the TT stock fuel pump in my tank. I have read where some have done this, and some have not. Some have posted to leave it and it will not run without it, and some are saying to undo it due to vapor locking the motor and the fuel pump NOT shutting off.
Can anyone from EXPERIENCE WITH THIS, CHIME IN!!!
I DONT WANT TO RUIN A MOTOR OR MY SETUP...
IMO, the way everyone is doing it here is not the best way to do it...
Not sure if I've said it before, but I will now, for sure...
The absolute best way to provide constant +12v power to the fuel pump and not have to worry about anything shorting out, or the fuel pump running indefinitely, is to run your own power wire directly from the battery, 10 or 8 gauge wire is sufficient. Run this to a relay that is near the pump... ground the relay, and use the existing power wire to the fuel pump to trigger the relay on and off, then run a new power wire from the relay to the pump itself (there is no need for much larger wire here, as it is very close to the pump anyways).
Been doing this for years on many different cars - it provides better voltage to the pump (due to larger diameter wiring and a direct run), and it also keeps the fuel pump running the same amount all the time, which is easier to tune in the long run.
The one problem many may run into here, however, is that the fuel pump may provide too much fuel at idle and lower rpm, causing the car to run rich because the fuel pressure regulator is not able to bleed off that much fuel (Especially when running an upgraded fuel pump). To fix this issue, the only real way is to run an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator...
12-31-11, 04:26 PM
#157
1JZ Single SC400
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Now that's the answer I was looking for. Thanks for the detailed description on this. I will be using a fuel pressure regulator. With the help of the standalone I think it will help out the possible idle running rich also. Again thanks!
01-06-12, 08:09 PM
#158
Ive only read to the fourth page and all i can see is a bash on walboro. Im not promoting any fp but honestly i ran 255 walboros in the three dsms i have had (all ran 32 lbs of boost) daily and beat the hell out of them. And they are still going. What i will say is that you cant get the low pressure high volume pumps that are the same quality as about three years ago. And no the if you buy it on ebay, it not the originals that were made in the states... And were iffy by all means. Just my two cents.
01-06-12, 08:12 PM
#159
1JZ Single SC400
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Your opinion is noted. I cant speak of any experience using them. I will not even know how the TT will last either until I finish my build. I think they are both great from the reviews that I have read. Some good some bad some iffy. The decision is yours. I hope the TT will perform the best once I do the mod.
01-09-12, 09:46 PM
#160
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IMO, the way everyone is doing it here is not the best way to do it...
Not sure if I've said it before, but I will now, for sure...
The absolute best way to provide constant +12v power to the fuel pump and not have to worry about anything shorting out, or the fuel pump running indefinitely, is to run your own power wire directly from the battery, 10 or 8 gauge wire is sufficient. Run this to a relay that is near the pump... ground the relay, and use the existing power wire to the fuel pump to trigger the relay on and off, then run a new power wire from the relay to the pump itself (there is no need for much larger wire here, as it is very close to the pump anyways).
Been doing this for years on many different cars - it provides better voltage to the pump (due to larger diameter wiring and a direct run), and it also keeps the fuel pump running the same amount all the time, which is easier to tune in the long run.
The one problem many may run into here, however, is that the fuel pump may provide too much fuel at idle and lower rpm, causing the car to run rich because the fuel pressure regulator is not able to bleed off that much fuel (Especially when running an upgraded fuel pump). To fix this issue, the only real way is to run an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator...
Not sure if I've said it before, but I will now, for sure...
The absolute best way to provide constant +12v power to the fuel pump and not have to worry about anything shorting out, or the fuel pump running indefinitely, is to run your own power wire directly from the battery, 10 or 8 gauge wire is sufficient. Run this to a relay that is near the pump... ground the relay, and use the existing power wire to the fuel pump to trigger the relay on and off, then run a new power wire from the relay to the pump itself (there is no need for much larger wire here, as it is very close to the pump anyways).
Been doing this for years on many different cars - it provides better voltage to the pump (due to larger diameter wiring and a direct run), and it also keeps the fuel pump running the same amount all the time, which is easier to tune in the long run.
The one problem many may run into here, however, is that the fuel pump may provide too much fuel at idle and lower rpm, causing the car to run rich because the fuel pressure regulator is not able to bleed off that much fuel (Especially when running an upgraded fuel pump). To fix this issue, the only real way is to run an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator...
thanks for clearing that up!
01-16-12, 10:37 AM
#161
IMO, the way everyone is doing it here is not the best way to do it...
Not sure if I've said it before, but I will now, for sure...
The absolute best way to provide constant +12v power to the fuel pump and not have to worry about anything shorting out, or the fuel pump running indefinitely, is to run your own power wire directly from the battery, 10 or 8 gauge wire is sufficient. Run this to a relay that is near the pump... ground the relay, and use the existing power wire to the fuel pump to trigger the relay on and off, then run a new power wire from the relay to the pump itself (there is no need for much larger wire here, as it is very close to the pump anyways).
Been doing this for years on many different cars - it provides better voltage to the pump (due to larger diameter wiring and a direct run), and it also keeps the fuel pump running the same amount all the time, which is easier to tune in the long run.
The one problem many may run into here, however, is that the fuel pump may provide too much fuel at idle and lower rpm, causing the car to run rich because the fuel pressure regulator is not able to bleed off that much fuel (Especially when running an upgraded fuel pump). To fix this issue, the only real way is to run an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator...
Not sure if I've said it before, but I will now, for sure...
The absolute best way to provide constant +12v power to the fuel pump and not have to worry about anything shorting out, or the fuel pump running indefinitely, is to run your own power wire directly from the battery, 10 or 8 gauge wire is sufficient. Run this to a relay that is near the pump... ground the relay, and use the existing power wire to the fuel pump to trigger the relay on and off, then run a new power wire from the relay to the pump itself (there is no need for much larger wire here, as it is very close to the pump anyways).
Been doing this for years on many different cars - it provides better voltage to the pump (due to larger diameter wiring and a direct run), and it also keeps the fuel pump running the same amount all the time, which is easier to tune in the long run.
The one problem many may run into here, however, is that the fuel pump may provide too much fuel at idle and lower rpm, causing the car to run rich because the fuel pressure regulator is not able to bleed off that much fuel (Especially when running an upgraded fuel pump). To fix this issue, the only real way is to run an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator...
02-12-12, 06:10 AM
#162
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I did this mod this morning too. 
My soarer starts like normal but the cold-idle was about ~900-1000RPM.
It´s to low....is this normal?
When i revved it to ~1500RPM it looks good to me.
I´ll drive to my friend in the next hour and we will see what´s happening.
My soarer starts like normal but the cold-idle was about ~900-1000RPM.
It´s to low....is this normal?
When i revved it to ~1500RPM it looks good to me.
I´ll drive to my friend in the next hour and we will see what´s happening.
04-12-12, 09:30 AM
#165
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as of 12/25/12 - not sure of my previous comment.. i actually believe because i dont have this now, and that i fixed a few other things i need this bypassed.. ****
Last edited by bryan767; 12-26-12 at 07:18 PM.