The Big Bad 1jz into SC400 thread
08-26-07, 02:44 PM
#19
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Thanks guys. I really do appreciate any and all help others can put into this thread. Hopefully this will become an amazing resource for everyone.
If there are any files that you would like hosted (pertaining to this) please hit me up and I'll be happy to host them on my server too. I also plan on making some cheat sheets in PDF format to help out.
If there are any files that you would like hosted (pertaining to this) please hit me up and I'll be happy to host them on my server too. I also plan on making some cheat sheets in PDF format to help out.
08-27-07, 09:37 AM
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Might want to add places where you can get the motor set from...
http://www.JDM-Online.com
1JZGTTE '90-92 Supra, they quoted me 2300 shipped (to a shop, 50 buck more to a home). Front clips are from 3250. They're on zilvia.net as a advertiser for Nissan motor sets and front clips...
Took me awhile to find a place that I heard are good reviews from...
http://www.jhotimports.com/ is another one I seen that are good over at supraforums.
http://www.JDM-Online.com
1JZGTTE '90-92 Supra, they quoted me 2300 shipped (to a shop, 50 buck more to a home). Front clips are from 3250. They're on zilvia.net as a advertiser for Nissan motor sets and front clips...
Took me awhile to find a place that I heard are good reviews from...
http://www.jhotimports.com/ is another one I seen that are good over at supraforums.
08-27-07, 03:17 PM
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Might want to add places where you can get the motor set from...
http://www.JDM-Online.com
1JZGTTE '90-92 Supra, they quoted me 2300 shipped (to a shop, 50 buck more to a home). Front clips are from 3250. They're on zilvia.net as a advertiser for Nissan motor sets and front clips...
Took me awhile to find a place that I heard are good reviews from...
http://www.jhotimports.com/ is another one I seen that are good over at supraforums.
http://www.JDM-Online.com
1JZGTTE '90-92 Supra, they quoted me 2300 shipped (to a shop, 50 buck more to a home). Front clips are from 3250. They're on zilvia.net as a advertiser for Nissan motor sets and front clips...
Took me awhile to find a place that I heard are good reviews from...
http://www.jhotimports.com/ is another one I seen that are good over at supraforums.
Good idea! Added to the thread, (put in some others too... but the more you all want to tell me about the better)
08-27-07, 03:37 PM
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Added a bunch of stuff.. some links to threads, some links to importers of clips and motors (thanks djdorifto, and RB26_S13)
I'm looking for some information about:
intercooler sizing.
Info about walbro vs mark IV fuel pump.
Fuel line information (since you need at least some)
Battery relocation
A definite answer about if you need to swap radiators, and sizing.
Information on keeping AC.
Electric fan information (though not necessary for the swap)
Reliability alterations that are good to do while doing the swap (oil cooler, etc).
Making a step by step (not down to nut and bolt) directions for the swap. Especially the 'prep work' like lengthening the harness.
And of course anything else you can think of.
Feel free to PM me or IM me (mattsegunm = my aim) so we can work on getting this winnowed into the ultimate swap thread.
I'm looking for some information about:
intercooler sizing.
Info about walbro vs mark IV fuel pump.
Fuel line information (since you need at least some)
Battery relocation
A definite answer about if you need to swap radiators, and sizing.
Information on keeping AC.
Electric fan information (though not necessary for the swap)
Reliability alterations that are good to do while doing the swap (oil cooler, etc).
Making a step by step (not down to nut and bolt) directions for the swap. Especially the 'prep work' like lengthening the harness.
And of course anything else you can think of.
Feel free to PM me or IM me (mattsegunm = my aim) so we can work on getting this winnowed into the ultimate swap thread.
Last edited by MattSEG; 08-27-07 at 03:52 PM.
08-27-07, 07:53 PM
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ok, here is what I can offer.
As far as bolting the motor in and ancillaries you will need:
-Sc300 or soarer motor mount isolators, the top bolts on the 1uzfe mounts are tilted in at about 25 degrees to meet the aluminum brackets. The inline 6 mounts are vertical. You can use the 1jz aluminum brackets if they were included, or get some sc300 brackets.
-sc300 or soarer transmission mount isolator. The 1uzfe isolator is about 15mm taller than the 6 cylinder. I used 98 supra TT motor mounts and a 1jz specific transmission mount, purchased from Champion Toyota. They stock many 1jz specific parts.
- I bought a complete engine gasket set, including the valve stem seals which IMHO you should definetely change while the motor is out, a timing belt, serpentine belt, p/s pump rebuild set, radiator hoses, water pump, t-stat, for about 400 bucks from Champion. Not to shabby, if I must say.
- Use an SC300 driveshaft. Or just the rear half of the 400 shaft and the front half of the 300.
-If you are using the Soarer side mount intercooler, you cannot use the sc400 radiator. The flat intercooler pipe that runs along the bottom of the engine bay will interfere with the lower radiator hose outlet. I would recommend a sc300 radiator and coolant overflow as you will be able to keep your battery under the hood. Front mounts should be able to use the 400 radiator with overflow and possible battery relocation.
- Supra TT upper and lower radiator hoses work. Cut and make your own heater hoses.
-Use your sc400 power steering reservoir. Bend the brackets that are spot welded from the factory to fit the contour of your fuse box, drill 2 holes in the fuse box and bolt the reservior to the fuse box. Mine seems pretty sturdy and looks semi-factory.
- It is possible to use the SC400 high pressure power steering hose but you will have to modify it a bit. At the rack, the hose is positioned when bolting it down with a small tab. If you loosen the bolt that holds the high pressure hose to the rack, you can rotate the hose until the locating tab is out of the way and point the hose towards the front of the car instead of towards the pass side where the v8 power steering pump is. You will have to curve the flexible section beside the radaitor, against the drivers side frame rail, under the battery tray, and it will bolt to the 1jz power steering pump. To get enough clearance between the ps pump pulley and the hard line of the high pressure pump I had to very gently bend the line to where I wanted it. If you kink or pinch the line, it is toast. This is one way to do it, not really the right way. Will it work? Yes it does and mine does not leak. Am I going to change it? ASAP.
-AC lines. You need the flexible hoses off of an sc300 compressor as well as the hard lines that run from the firewall to under the radiator fan. You can get the sc400 lines to fit pretty well, but guess what... there is no low pressure fitting on the sc400 lines as it is on the compressor.
-Fuel lines.... Here is what I have done, call it ghetto or whatever but it works fine and does not leak. Use the female NPT threaded fitting and some of the hose off of the sc400 motor combined with the cut portion that came with the motor set. Spliced together with a 5/16 brass barbed fitting, which has the same inner diameter as the hose. It is a ***** to get the hoses on but you can do it. Clamp the hose over the barbed section. Return hose = high pressure fuel line from the auto parts store, 1/4" I think.
-Throttle cable: You can use the sc400 throttle cable, it's tight, but works pretty well if you cut some of the rubber cushion away inside the cabin behind the gas pedal. I used an 95 4cyl Camry cable from the junkyard. It gives about 2.5-3" more to play with.
-I used the sc400 cruise actuator in conjunction with the 1jz cruise cable. It is tight around the intercooler pipe that goes into the fender but works.
-Exhaust... I cut the flange off of the stock 1jz downpipe, plasma cut it out to 3" diameter, bought a 3" aluminized steel mandrel U-bend, 4' of 3" aluminized steel tubing, a pair of cheapo 3" header flanges, a 3" in to dual 2.5" out y pipe, (2) 4' sections of 2.5" aluminized steel tubing, and a 2.5" mandrel U-bend from the muscle car guys at Summit Racing, and a pair of $24 N1 cans off of fleabay. Made some pie cuts out of the U-bends and mig welded everything together. Total cost= about $120. Yeah I wouldn't show it off and it's annoyingly loud but it will do fine until the ceramic twins take a dump.
-Extra: Don't throw away the heat exchanger behind your driver's side front bumper that the V8 uses to cool the hydro fan. Buy 6' of 3/8" ATF transmission hose and plumb that bad boy in line with the radiator's transmission cooling lines. Gains are probably marginal, but it has to help a little.
Section 2: Wiring
-Extend the 5 body harness plugs blah blah blah you have heard it before. I extended mine 24" and that is a bit much, i would say 18-20" would be good and still leave a good amount of slack.
-Extend the plugs in the engine bay to reach the power steering rack, and the heater control valve if needed.
-Use the body plug for the alternator, wrap the one on the engine harness with electrical tape and tie it out of the way.
-Move the blue and yellow wire on the white female body side plug to the female orange body( i think it is IK24) side plug so that when the 1jz side body plug with the blue/yellow wire is inserted the blue/yellow wires connect. This will get the Check engine light working.
-To make your temp gauge work, ground pin 24 on the same white plug on the body side(IK2). It is a brown/black wire between a pink and a black wire. I t-tapped into the brown/black wire and used the body ground behind the kick panel.
-There are two thicker black/orange wires on the larger gray plug coming from the engine that supply power to the igniter and injectors. You will need to find a good "switched" 12V source to power these, as they don't recieve any power from the sc400 body. I broke out the multimeter and found an unused by the 1jz pin that had a good 12v switched signal and spliced these two into it.
-I had to do the 12V mod at the fuel pump ECU to get the car to start. There are two thicker wires at the fuel pump ECU, (1)Green and (1)Black/Red14 GA. Cut these 2 and connect them. Insulate them well.
-You can do the R109 resistor mod on the back of the cluster to get a tach signal to the cluster, but it will read 1000 rpms or better higher than it really is. My car will bury the tach needle before shifting at WOT. I'm looking for a nice SC300 cluster to use.
Issues that I need help with (others please chime in):
- Air Bag light was staying on all the time (key on or off). The cluster was always plugged in when the battery was connected. I have the bulb pulled until I get it figured out.
- The 1jz auto trans is momentarily bouncing off of the rev limiter when shifting at WOT. Sounds like a machine gun. Does it for about a third of a second on the 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts.
I am sure I have forgotten stuff and I have yet to take pics. Hope this helps.
As far as bolting the motor in and ancillaries you will need:
-Sc300 or soarer motor mount isolators, the top bolts on the 1uzfe mounts are tilted in at about 25 degrees to meet the aluminum brackets. The inline 6 mounts are vertical. You can use the 1jz aluminum brackets if they were included, or get some sc300 brackets.
-sc300 or soarer transmission mount isolator. The 1uzfe isolator is about 15mm taller than the 6 cylinder. I used 98 supra TT motor mounts and a 1jz specific transmission mount, purchased from Champion Toyota. They stock many 1jz specific parts.
- I bought a complete engine gasket set, including the valve stem seals which IMHO you should definetely change while the motor is out, a timing belt, serpentine belt, p/s pump rebuild set, radiator hoses, water pump, t-stat, for about 400 bucks from Champion. Not to shabby, if I must say.
- Use an SC300 driveshaft. Or just the rear half of the 400 shaft and the front half of the 300.
-If you are using the Soarer side mount intercooler, you cannot use the sc400 radiator. The flat intercooler pipe that runs along the bottom of the engine bay will interfere with the lower radiator hose outlet. I would recommend a sc300 radiator and coolant overflow as you will be able to keep your battery under the hood. Front mounts should be able to use the 400 radiator with overflow and possible battery relocation.
- Supra TT upper and lower radiator hoses work. Cut and make your own heater hoses.
-Use your sc400 power steering reservoir. Bend the brackets that are spot welded from the factory to fit the contour of your fuse box, drill 2 holes in the fuse box and bolt the reservior to the fuse box. Mine seems pretty sturdy and looks semi-factory.
- It is possible to use the SC400 high pressure power steering hose but you will have to modify it a bit. At the rack, the hose is positioned when bolting it down with a small tab. If you loosen the bolt that holds the high pressure hose to the rack, you can rotate the hose until the locating tab is out of the way and point the hose towards the front of the car instead of towards the pass side where the v8 power steering pump is. You will have to curve the flexible section beside the radaitor, against the drivers side frame rail, under the battery tray, and it will bolt to the 1jz power steering pump. To get enough clearance between the ps pump pulley and the hard line of the high pressure pump I had to very gently bend the line to where I wanted it. If you kink or pinch the line, it is toast. This is one way to do it, not really the right way. Will it work? Yes it does and mine does not leak. Am I going to change it? ASAP.
-AC lines. You need the flexible hoses off of an sc300 compressor as well as the hard lines that run from the firewall to under the radiator fan. You can get the sc400 lines to fit pretty well, but guess what... there is no low pressure fitting on the sc400 lines as it is on the compressor.
-Fuel lines.... Here is what I have done, call it ghetto or whatever but it works fine and does not leak. Use the female NPT threaded fitting and some of the hose off of the sc400 motor combined with the cut portion that came with the motor set. Spliced together with a 5/16 brass barbed fitting, which has the same inner diameter as the hose. It is a ***** to get the hoses on but you can do it. Clamp the hose over the barbed section. Return hose = high pressure fuel line from the auto parts store, 1/4" I think.
-Throttle cable: You can use the sc400 throttle cable, it's tight, but works pretty well if you cut some of the rubber cushion away inside the cabin behind the gas pedal. I used an 95 4cyl Camry cable from the junkyard. It gives about 2.5-3" more to play with.
-I used the sc400 cruise actuator in conjunction with the 1jz cruise cable. It is tight around the intercooler pipe that goes into the fender but works.
-Exhaust... I cut the flange off of the stock 1jz downpipe, plasma cut it out to 3" diameter, bought a 3" aluminized steel mandrel U-bend, 4' of 3" aluminized steel tubing, a pair of cheapo 3" header flanges, a 3" in to dual 2.5" out y pipe, (2) 4' sections of 2.5" aluminized steel tubing, and a 2.5" mandrel U-bend from the muscle car guys at Summit Racing, and a pair of $24 N1 cans off of fleabay. Made some pie cuts out of the U-bends and mig welded everything together. Total cost= about $120. Yeah I wouldn't show it off and it's annoyingly loud but it will do fine until the ceramic twins take a dump.
-Extra: Don't throw away the heat exchanger behind your driver's side front bumper that the V8 uses to cool the hydro fan. Buy 6' of 3/8" ATF transmission hose and plumb that bad boy in line with the radiator's transmission cooling lines. Gains are probably marginal, but it has to help a little.
Section 2: Wiring
-Extend the 5 body harness plugs blah blah blah you have heard it before. I extended mine 24" and that is a bit much, i would say 18-20" would be good and still leave a good amount of slack.
-Extend the plugs in the engine bay to reach the power steering rack, and the heater control valve if needed.
-Use the body plug for the alternator, wrap the one on the engine harness with electrical tape and tie it out of the way.
-Move the blue and yellow wire on the white female body side plug to the female orange body( i think it is IK24) side plug so that when the 1jz side body plug with the blue/yellow wire is inserted the blue/yellow wires connect. This will get the Check engine light working.
-To make your temp gauge work, ground pin 24 on the same white plug on the body side(IK2). It is a brown/black wire between a pink and a black wire. I t-tapped into the brown/black wire and used the body ground behind the kick panel.
-There are two thicker black/orange wires on the larger gray plug coming from the engine that supply power to the igniter and injectors. You will need to find a good "switched" 12V source to power these, as they don't recieve any power from the sc400 body. I broke out the multimeter and found an unused by the 1jz pin that had a good 12v switched signal and spliced these two into it.
-I had to do the 12V mod at the fuel pump ECU to get the car to start. There are two thicker wires at the fuel pump ECU, (1)Green and (1)Black/Red14 GA. Cut these 2 and connect them. Insulate them well.
-You can do the R109 resistor mod on the back of the cluster to get a tach signal to the cluster, but it will read 1000 rpms or better higher than it really is. My car will bury the tach needle before shifting at WOT. I'm looking for a nice SC300 cluster to use.
Issues that I need help with (others please chime in):
- Air Bag light was staying on all the time (key on or off). The cluster was always plugged in when the battery was connected. I have the bulb pulled until I get it figured out.
- The 1jz auto trans is momentarily bouncing off of the rev limiter when shifting at WOT. Sounds like a machine gun. Does it for about a third of a second on the 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts.
I am sure I have forgotten stuff and I have yet to take pics. Hope this helps.
08-27-07, 11:57 PM
#28
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this is awesome, lots of info for when I start to tackle my SC300 1J project keep them coming guys...
Oo, what about power upgrades? Any good sites that has kits for 1J's in SC300? I know theres kits for 1J's and 2J's in Supras and what not, but I'm pretty sure the piping will be different and maybe fitment issues with manifold or whatnot? Any help in this department?
Oo, what about power upgrades? Any good sites that has kits for 1J's in SC300? I know theres kits for 1J's and 2J's in Supras and what not, but I'm pretty sure the piping will be different and maybe fitment issues with manifold or whatnot? Any help in this department?
08-28-07, 12:18 AM
#29
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What do you mean by a kit?
Since I can weld ok, and I have some friends that are good welders it'll be much cheaper for me to do custom piping for the IC. As for manifolds, there are a few on ebay that I hear are decent. That teemed with an air intake and downpipe and that's pretty much everything save getting what ever turbo you want. Part of the fun is piecing together what you want.
Turbo sizing is a different beast, but I'm thinking something like a .63 A/R 67mm conventional bearing turbo will suit my needs when I go to a single setup. Flanges for the downpipe are pretty easy to come by with just about any turbo, and with fabbing up exhaust (which is some of the more simple fab work) and you are pretty much set.
One thing I would like to do is a printable layout (can't think of the word) for the flanges for the exhaust.
Since I can weld ok, and I have some friends that are good welders it'll be much cheaper for me to do custom piping for the IC. As for manifolds, there are a few on ebay that I hear are decent. That teemed with an air intake and downpipe and that's pretty much everything save getting what ever turbo you want. Part of the fun is piecing together what you want.
Turbo sizing is a different beast, but I'm thinking something like a .63 A/R 67mm conventional bearing turbo will suit my needs when I go to a single setup. Flanges for the downpipe are pretty easy to come by with just about any turbo, and with fabbing up exhaust (which is some of the more simple fab work) and you are pretty much set.
One thing I would like to do is a printable layout (can't think of the word) for the flanges for the exhaust.