The Big Bad 1jz into SC400 thread
06-29-08 | 08:19 PM
#76
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: RI
1jz swap into sc400
hey... i just bought a 95 sc400 and want to do a 1jz swap tranny and all ... i dont wanna have 2 read through the whole post piecing together everything i need so if someone can give me a heads up of everything i would need to get to do this that would be sweet.. thanks
06-29-08 | 08:54 PM
#77
Rookie
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: NJ
hey... i just bought a 95 sc400 and want to do a 1jz swap tranny and all ... i dont wanna have 2 read through the whole post piecing together everything i need so if someone can give me a heads up of everything i would need to get to do this that would be sweet.. thanks
06-29-08 | 09:43 PM
#78
hey... i just bought a 95 sc400 and want to do a 1jz swap tranny and all ... i dont wanna have 2 read through the whole post piecing together everything i need so if someone can give me a heads up of everything i would need to get to do this that would be sweet.. thanks
07-15-08 | 12:05 PM
#79
Hey guys, I got the engine and and just hooking everything up now. Can anyone clarify what to do about the alternator wiring. I have the 1JZ alternator and the plug that is in the rear of the alternator goes straight into the engine whereas the sc400 plug goes into the right side body wiring.
03-02-09 | 09:32 AM
#86
Driver
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: texas
cluster swap
Do you have a diffrent diagram to swaping a cluster form sc300 to a sc400? Something with pics, im too dumb for diagrams. I have been researching to try to find wich resister you are talking about. When i had the cluster in my car the tach started to read wrong just like you said, but also every time i pushed on the button to put the car in gear my climate control will completely shot off. It does not do that with the sc400 cluster. Will that same resister eliminate that problem?
03-11-09 | 05:51 PM
#87
Lead Lap
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 500
Likes: 0
From: Madison WI
-If you are using the Soarer side mount intercooler, you cannot use the sc400 radiator. The flat intercooler pipe that runs along the bottom of the engine bay will interfere with the lower radiator hose outlet. I would recommend a sc300 radiator and coolant overflow as you will be able to keep your battery under the hood. Front mounts should be able to use the 400 radiator with overflow and possible battery relocation.
Who is running their stock radiator after the 1jz swap? Please indicate if it's a 300 or 400 you swapped the 1jz into.
Let us know what radiator you're using post swap.
Thanks again to MattSEG for his work on this thread
05-25-09 | 04:28 PM
#88
Rookie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Canada
hello
Hello Everyone.
This thread is the greatest, it's exactly what i was looking for.
I got a killer deal on a Aristo front clip, I am going FMIC and keeping it auto so that solves a lot of my problems.
Can anyone confirm if the 2jz swap into a sc400 wiring is the same as this?
This thread is the greatest, it's exactly what i was looking for.
I got a killer deal on a Aristo front clip, I am going FMIC and keeping it auto so that solves a lot of my problems.
Can anyone confirm if the 2jz swap into a sc400 wiring is the same as this?
ok, here is what I can offer.
Section 2: Wiring
-Extend the 5 body harness plugs blah blah blah you have heard it before. I extended mine 24" and that is a bit much, i would say 18-20" would be good and still leave a good amount of slack.
-Extend the plugs in the engine bay to reach the power steering rack, and the heater control valve if needed.
-Use the body plug for the alternator, wrap the one on the engine harness with electrical tape and tie it out of the way.
-Move the blue and yellow wire on the white female body side plug to the female orange body( i think it is IK24) side plug so that when the 1jz side body plug with the blue/yellow wire is inserted the blue/yellow wires connect. This will get the Check engine light working.
-To make your temp gauge work, ground pin 24 on the same white plug on the body side(IK2). It is a brown/black wire between a pink and a black wire. I t-tapped into the brown/black wire and used the body ground behind the kick panel.
-There are two thicker black/orange wires on the larger gray plug coming from the engine that supply power to the igniter and injectors. You will need to find a good "switched" 12V source to power these, as they don't recieve any power from the sc400 body. I broke out the multimeter and found an unused by the 1jz pin that had a good 12v switched signal and spliced these two into it.
-I had to do the 12V mod at the fuel pump ECU to get the car to start. There are two thicker wires at the fuel pump ECU, (1)Green and (1)Black/Red14 GA. Cut these 2 and connect them. Insulate them well.
-You can do the R109 resistor mod on the back of the cluster to get a tach signal to the cluster, but it will read 1000 rpms or better higher than it really is. My car will bury the tach needle before shifting at WOT. I'm looking for a nice SC300 cluster to use.
Issues that I need help with (others please chime in):
- Air Bag light was staying on all the time (key on or off). The cluster was always plugged in when the battery was connected. I have the bulb pulled until I get it figured out.
- The 1jz auto trans is momentarily bouncing off of the rev limiter when shifting at WOT. Sounds like a machine gun. Does it for about a third of a second on the 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts.
I am sure I have forgotten stuff and I have yet to take pics. Hope this helps.
Section 2: Wiring
-Extend the 5 body harness plugs blah blah blah you have heard it before. I extended mine 24" and that is a bit much, i would say 18-20" would be good and still leave a good amount of slack.
-Extend the plugs in the engine bay to reach the power steering rack, and the heater control valve if needed.
-Use the body plug for the alternator, wrap the one on the engine harness with electrical tape and tie it out of the way.
-Move the blue and yellow wire on the white female body side plug to the female orange body( i think it is IK24) side plug so that when the 1jz side body plug with the blue/yellow wire is inserted the blue/yellow wires connect. This will get the Check engine light working.
-To make your temp gauge work, ground pin 24 on the same white plug on the body side(IK2). It is a brown/black wire between a pink and a black wire. I t-tapped into the brown/black wire and used the body ground behind the kick panel.
-There are two thicker black/orange wires on the larger gray plug coming from the engine that supply power to the igniter and injectors. You will need to find a good "switched" 12V source to power these, as they don't recieve any power from the sc400 body. I broke out the multimeter and found an unused by the 1jz pin that had a good 12v switched signal and spliced these two into it.
-I had to do the 12V mod at the fuel pump ECU to get the car to start. There are two thicker wires at the fuel pump ECU, (1)Green and (1)Black/Red14 GA. Cut these 2 and connect them. Insulate them well.
-You can do the R109 resistor mod on the back of the cluster to get a tach signal to the cluster, but it will read 1000 rpms or better higher than it really is. My car will bury the tach needle before shifting at WOT. I'm looking for a nice SC300 cluster to use.
Issues that I need help with (others please chime in):
- Air Bag light was staying on all the time (key on or off). The cluster was always plugged in when the battery was connected. I have the bulb pulled until I get it figured out.
- The 1jz auto trans is momentarily bouncing off of the rev limiter when shifting at WOT. Sounds like a machine gun. Does it for about a third of a second on the 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts.
I am sure I have forgotten stuff and I have yet to take pics. Hope this helps.
