CCC-TT's 2JZ-GE to 1JZ-GTE swap
10-08-07, 09:39 PM
#46
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: FLA, USA
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks man for the tips
shoulda seen the tow truck driver's face when i popped the hood then cut the car on hahaha he was impressed all he could say is 'whoa bet this puppy is gonna fly when its all done..." i just looked at him and said its all his im just helping him with it. What he said next made us two laugh cause we know him personally ..."how old are?"...17 says bobby..."oh just dont go nick hogan on us"
night fellas
shoulda seen the tow truck driver's face when i popped the hood then cut the car on hahaha he was impressed all he could say is 'whoa bet this puppy is gonna fly when its all done..." i just looked at him and said its all his im just helping him with it. What he said next made us two laugh cause we know him personally ..."how old are?"...17 says bobby..."oh just dont go nick hogan on us"
night fellas
10-11-07, 07:13 AM
#47
haha so we drove it home form the shop last night, it was on an open dp and was loud as hell lol. it sounded really good but we didnt open it up cause i'm still on the stock fuel pump and havent finished the tach wiring or the starter wiring. I did manage to stall it out without realizing it... oh well. Dan got a video on his fone of it driving down the road.
And boy was it entertaining to see the looks on the neighborhood kid's faces when they heard those turbos
lol
And boy was it entertaining to see the looks on the neighborhood kid's faces when they heard those turbos
lol
10-13-07, 10:38 AM
#50
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: DC
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
when i bought my first manual car (93 240sx) I didn't stall it for about 4 months cause i knew how to drive a stick pretty well. not even once.
its pretty nerve wrecking wondering when your finally gonna slip up and stall it
Glad to see you got that out of the way nice and early
. now put those turbos to work
10-13-07, 06:08 PM
#51
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: FLA, USA
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
more progress in the last two days, found out the hard way that the car was running solely on battery power so had to swap the GE alternator onto the 1jz....took us 5 min to take off the GE and me 10min to put on GTE haha. The DP is finally mated to the exhaust so the car is quite the sleeper until you hear the twins spool up and the ARC bov vent, thanks to Race Related for the awesome fab work. We are getting there, the tach issue is taken care of just have to get the temp guage to work. Still havent figured out which way we want to tackle the starter deal but we'll be doing that tomorrow as well as figuring out what the misfire issue over 3k is about.
Car sounds like a volvo 960 now its funny to think it has 2 turbos attached to it even though the car looks 100% stock body wise with some wheels
Car sounds like a volvo 960 now its funny to think it has 2 turbos attached to it even though the car looks 100% stock body wise with some wheels
10-13-07, 06:38 PM
#52
Rookie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: FLA, USA
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So far things to expect when going 1jz into a 5 speed SC300:
-ALL of the wiring going in through the firewall on the passenger side have to be extended 18-23 inches as the JDM harness is only long enough to fit in a RHD model...these connect to PCM and body electronics
-Swap Alternators (use USDM GE)...unless your swap comes with the alternator harness which is highly unlikely
-Swap AC compressors (use USDM GE) ours is shot so we'll have to get a remanufactured or new one
-Use 94+ mk4 Supra throttle cable and use 94+ mk4 Supra Cruise control cable...you wont need the servo motor just the cable
-If your swap is auto you will need to take the bracket that holds the Cruise and Throttle cables and slide it back one bolt hole towards firewall so that you can correctly fasten both cables in place
-If using the stock Soarer sidemount the section of intercooler tubing that goes from the side mount to the intake manifold may require you to use two sections of intercooler piping and a 45 degree coupler for temporary use until you do a front mount.
-If going from Auto to 5/6 speed during swap be sure to purchase/resurface flywheel and purchase appropriate power/torque capacity clutch.
-Use 1jz power steering reservoir
-If using the heater core be sure to route the coolant hoses accordingly between the firewall and 1jz head
-If the swap is auto but will be converted to manual, plan on disconnecting the relay wire to the starter. You'll need to cut the connector from the end of that wire, be sure to safely cover the cut end as it does still have power going through it and run your own wire to the ignition switch harness reusing the connector on the starter end.
-REPLACE THE WATER PUMP...Use a 94+ mk4 Supra one as chances are the JDM one will leak once US spec coolant flows through it
-REPLACE THE TIMING BELT...might aswell while doing the water pump and for safety precaution
-REPLACE THE SPARK PLUGS...exact mileage sometimes is not accurate
-Change OIL and Filter before starting the car once swap is completed
-Make sure you pay close attention to all of the items that require a vacuum connection for when you finally get the 1jz mounted you can reconnect them
-Change the Fuel Pump, while stock pump is good enough just go for walbro 255 while doing the swap
-If the swap is auto but going into a 5 speed car you must cut off the speed sensor harness from the GE then you must cut the one on the GTE and solder the GE piece so that it will connect to the sensor on the transmission
-We are still trying to find our solution to not having reverse lights...will edit when we correct this
-The tach and temp guages will not work until you complete some wiring changes at the cluster harness...will update this one as well
-The airbag light stays on so i'll update this one as well
-The engine will no rev past 3,000rpm....will update this too
this is all i could pull from taking mental notes...if i think of anything else or if any of you others who have done this swap have something to contribute i will edit this reply
-ALL of the wiring going in through the firewall on the passenger side have to be extended 18-23 inches as the JDM harness is only long enough to fit in a RHD model...these connect to PCM and body electronics
-Swap Alternators (use USDM GE)...unless your swap comes with the alternator harness which is highly unlikely
-Swap AC compressors (use USDM GE) ours is shot so we'll have to get a remanufactured or new one
-Use 94+ mk4 Supra throttle cable and use 94+ mk4 Supra Cruise control cable...you wont need the servo motor just the cable
-If your swap is auto you will need to take the bracket that holds the Cruise and Throttle cables and slide it back one bolt hole towards firewall so that you can correctly fasten both cables in place
-If using the stock Soarer sidemount the section of intercooler tubing that goes from the side mount to the intake manifold may require you to use two sections of intercooler piping and a 45 degree coupler for temporary use until you do a front mount.
-If going from Auto to 5/6 speed during swap be sure to purchase/resurface flywheel and purchase appropriate power/torque capacity clutch.
-Use 1jz power steering reservoir
-If using the heater core be sure to route the coolant hoses accordingly between the firewall and 1jz head
-If the swap is auto but will be converted to manual, plan on disconnecting the relay wire to the starter. You'll need to cut the connector from the end of that wire, be sure to safely cover the cut end as it does still have power going through it and run your own wire to the ignition switch harness reusing the connector on the starter end.
-REPLACE THE WATER PUMP...Use a 94+ mk4 Supra one as chances are the JDM one will leak once US spec coolant flows through it
-REPLACE THE TIMING BELT...might aswell while doing the water pump and for safety precaution
-REPLACE THE SPARK PLUGS...exact mileage sometimes is not accurate
-Change OIL and Filter before starting the car once swap is completed
-Make sure you pay close attention to all of the items that require a vacuum connection for when you finally get the 1jz mounted you can reconnect them
-Change the Fuel Pump, while stock pump is good enough just go for walbro 255 while doing the swap
-If the swap is auto but going into a 5 speed car you must cut off the speed sensor harness from the GE then you must cut the one on the GTE and solder the GE piece so that it will connect to the sensor on the transmission
-We are still trying to find our solution to not having reverse lights...will edit when we correct this
-The tach and temp guages will not work until you complete some wiring changes at the cluster harness...will update this one as well
-The airbag light stays on so i'll update this one as well
-The engine will no rev past 3,000rpm....will update this too
this is all i could pull from taking mental notes...if i think of anything else or if any of you others who have done this swap have something to contribute i will edit this reply
Last edited by DominicAN; 10-13-07 at 06:41 PM.
10-14-07, 10:06 AM
#54
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Washington
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
jeez do all of you people who swap your own engines have experience in this before? or is your car the lab rat? ive thinking of doing this but im too scared to screw up....
10-14-07, 11:19 AM
#56
Rookie
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: GA
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
fortunately there are many many write ups....
