Boosting my 95SC4 and some other projects
#155
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The MAFTPro needs to be set to 4cyl in order to read the RPM correctly. I tried tapping into both the igniter #1 wire at the ECU and the RPM signal that goes into the tach, both would only read half RPM when the T-Pro was set to 8cyl.
For the MAF, you need to hook the T-Pro inline with the MAF wiring for AFC mode. If you want to run speed density, you only need to connect the T-Pro to the input wire from the MAF into the ECU.
I am currently still working with TurboBob over at Full Throttle ( http://www.fullthrottletech.com/index.php) to optimize for speed density. In order for the speed density feature of the T-Pro to work (with any car), the MAF sensor needs to be mapped, so to speak. I have sent a few data logs to TurboBob and he has come up with a beta Lexus MAF setting. I am using that setting now and it runs ok, but it still needs some baseline tweaking before I really get into tuning.
Tuning is pretty simple with the unit once you learn the menus. There is mainscale tuning, and load point tuning. The load points can also be changed. With version 4.8 there is WOT AFR tracking, idle AFR tracking, and cruise AFR tracking. These are very cool features that work very well. If you know what you are doing, you could probably make it control timing. It can also be used as a boost controller. For the money, I would say it's a pretty feature packed little box.
The customer service at Full Throttle is awesome. TurboBob in particular has been instrumental in helping me be able to convert to speed density. He seems very knowledgeable, and very willing to help.
KC
#156
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Guys,
I know I'm slack on the updates.
It appears that my boost issues are all taken care of. Just earlier today I was making 6psi @ 5000rpm with the AFR sitting at 12.5 to 1. All I can say is wow.
List of problems I had making boost...
I didn't know about the passenger side PCV vent hose. I installed a PCV on the hose.
My EGR valve was leaking externally in 3 or 4 places. I think it was also leaking into the exhaust. I made a gasket out of a coke can (for now) and blocked of the ports. I think the EGR valve was my biggest problem.
After I plugged the EGR valve, I was seeing some boost, but then my MAF sensor started leaking severly. Not only was this affecting boost, it was also screwing with the way the car ran. I removed the top cover of the sensor and re-sealed it.
After blocking the EGR and fixing the MAF, every time I would start to get into boost, the AFR would go extremly rich. 10 to 1 or lower, which makes the car run like butt, then it would idle very lean. I figured out that everytime I got into boost a vacuum line would come off or crack. So, I replaced every vac line that I could find.
After all that, I'm making consistent boost. YEE HAW!
Now my only issue is tuning. TurboBob (works for MAFTPRO) made me a beta program for the T-Pro to run speed density. It is very unstable and the car dosen't run very well with it. In time, I am confident that he can fix it. The 6psi I was getting today was accomplished with the MAF in place and the T-Pro disconnected. I wanted to make sure that I don't have any other issues that may be causing it to run weird with the T-Pro. Well, the car ran great without it. Even sat at 12.5 to 1 @ 6psi with only the ECU controlling fuel and no aftermarket regulator. I do have an occasional miss, I think that my plugs are probably fouled from running rich so much. I will pull them to check in the near future. Like I said, I am sure that TurboBob will make it work for me, he just needs some time to sort it out.
I did run it a few days using speed density without the MAF. Without the MAF and 3 inch pipe in place of the factory intake, it seemed to build boost a bit faster. I will likely just use the T-Pro as a fuel controller until the speed density thing is fixed.
So anyway, I am finally making some boost. I estimate with the 6psi @ 5000rpm, I should have 8 or 9psi at 6500rpm!?!? And so far, no signs of running out of fuel.
Hurray for me!
KC
I know I'm slack on the updates.
It appears that my boost issues are all taken care of. Just earlier today I was making 6psi @ 5000rpm with the AFR sitting at 12.5 to 1. All I can say is wow.
List of problems I had making boost...
I didn't know about the passenger side PCV vent hose. I installed a PCV on the hose.
My EGR valve was leaking externally in 3 or 4 places. I think it was also leaking into the exhaust. I made a gasket out of a coke can (for now) and blocked of the ports. I think the EGR valve was my biggest problem.
After I plugged the EGR valve, I was seeing some boost, but then my MAF sensor started leaking severly. Not only was this affecting boost, it was also screwing with the way the car ran. I removed the top cover of the sensor and re-sealed it.
After blocking the EGR and fixing the MAF, every time I would start to get into boost, the AFR would go extremly rich. 10 to 1 or lower, which makes the car run like butt, then it would idle very lean. I figured out that everytime I got into boost a vacuum line would come off or crack. So, I replaced every vac line that I could find.
After all that, I'm making consistent boost. YEE HAW!
Now my only issue is tuning. TurboBob (works for MAFTPRO) made me a beta program for the T-Pro to run speed density. It is very unstable and the car dosen't run very well with it. In time, I am confident that he can fix it. The 6psi I was getting today was accomplished with the MAF in place and the T-Pro disconnected. I wanted to make sure that I don't have any other issues that may be causing it to run weird with the T-Pro. Well, the car ran great without it. Even sat at 12.5 to 1 @ 6psi with only the ECU controlling fuel and no aftermarket regulator. I do have an occasional miss, I think that my plugs are probably fouled from running rich so much. I will pull them to check in the near future. Like I said, I am sure that TurboBob will make it work for me, he just needs some time to sort it out.
I did run it a few days using speed density without the MAF. Without the MAF and 3 inch pipe in place of the factory intake, it seemed to build boost a bit faster. I will likely just use the T-Pro as a fuel controller until the speed density thing is fixed.
So anyway, I am finally making some boost. I estimate with the 6psi @ 5000rpm, I should have 8 or 9psi at 6500rpm!?!? And so far, no signs of running out of fuel.
Hurray for me!
KC
#157
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: MI
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I think you have made huge progress. I have no doubts that it will be running top-notch very soon (speed density or not)
SD mode has some real advantages in boosted applications. But can be trickier to tune. As you get more familiar with your new build, and the Pro, it will fall into line.
I need to look back over your configuration, pressurizing MAFs really messes with them. Do you have a bypass / blow-off valve? Have you considered running the MAF before the blower (draw-thru)?
One thing the Pro can do is allow a "better" MAF to be used, and translate the signal. One suggestion is the GM aluminum MAF (3" or 3.5"), or one of the Ford Cobra MAFs.
once you get the pro reconnected, do some driving in translator mode and get some logs. I think that will help us find the kinks in the tune.
Bob
SD mode has some real advantages in boosted applications. But can be trickier to tune. As you get more familiar with your new build, and the Pro, it will fall into line.
I need to look back over your configuration, pressurizing MAFs really messes with them. Do you have a bypass / blow-off valve? Have you considered running the MAF before the blower (draw-thru)?
One thing the Pro can do is allow a "better" MAF to be used, and translate the signal. One suggestion is the GM aluminum MAF (3" or 3.5"), or one of the Ford Cobra MAFs.
once you get the pro reconnected, do some driving in translator mode and get some logs. I think that will help us find the kinks in the tune.
Bob
#158
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TurboBob,
Thanks for the good words.
With my setup, it would be very difficult to draw through the MAF, I barely have room for an air filter on the inlet of the blower. It would require MORE piping and some re-wiring.
I have all the confidence in the world that you'll get it to work, you just need some time and my willingness to work with you.
The Pro isn't really disconnected, it's just unplugged and I jumped the fin and fout wires on the harness side to temp run the stock MAF. All I need to do is pull the jumper wire and plug it back in. The main reason I did this was to make sure the problem wasn't my car or my setup. The Pro, regardless of how it's currently running in SD, works awesomely as an AFC. And I love all the tracking features.
I am not currently using a blow off or bypass, I think I have decided that I don't need one, or at least, that it is more trouble than it's worth. That last log I sent you was with a bypass valve vented to atmosphere.
Once we get the SD to work, I plan on completely removing the MAF.
Thanks,
KC
Thanks for the good words.
With my setup, it would be very difficult to draw through the MAF, I barely have room for an air filter on the inlet of the blower. It would require MORE piping and some re-wiring.
I have all the confidence in the world that you'll get it to work, you just need some time and my willingness to work with you.
The Pro isn't really disconnected, it's just unplugged and I jumped the fin and fout wires on the harness side to temp run the stock MAF. All I need to do is pull the jumper wire and plug it back in. The main reason I did this was to make sure the problem wasn't my car or my setup. The Pro, regardless of how it's currently running in SD, works awesomely as an AFC. And I love all the tracking features.
I am not currently using a blow off or bypass, I think I have decided that I don't need one, or at least, that it is more trouble than it's worth. That last log I sent you was with a bypass valve vented to atmosphere.
Once we get the SD to work, I plan on completely removing the MAF.
Thanks,
KC
I think you have made huge progress. I have no doubts that it will be running top-notch very soon (speed density or not)
SD mode has some real advantages in boosted applications. But can be trickier to tune. As you get more familiar with your new build, and the Pro, it will fall into line.
I need to look back over your configuration, pressurizing MAFs really messes with them. Do you have a bypass / blow-off valve? Have you considered running the MAF before the blower (draw-thru)?
One thing the Pro can do is allow a "better" MAF to be used, and translate the signal. One suggestion is the GM aluminum MAF (3" or 3.5"), or one of the Ford Cobra MAFs.
once you get the pro reconnected, do some driving in translator mode and get some logs. I think that will help us find the kinks in the tune.
Bob
SD mode has some real advantages in boosted applications. But can be trickier to tune. As you get more familiar with your new build, and the Pro, it will fall into line.
I need to look back over your configuration, pressurizing MAFs really messes with them. Do you have a bypass / blow-off valve? Have you considered running the MAF before the blower (draw-thru)?
One thing the Pro can do is allow a "better" MAF to be used, and translate the signal. One suggestion is the GM aluminum MAF (3" or 3.5"), or one of the Ford Cobra MAFs.
once you get the pro reconnected, do some driving in translator mode and get some logs. I think that will help us find the kinks in the tune.
Bob
#159
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Guys, what the heck is the trick to keep vac lines from coming off and leaking?
I've replaced about all of them, and I tested for leaks and had none. Over the past few days, I've noticed I have less boost, so I re leak tested and I have like 5 leaks!
Its ridiculous!
I have a few things in mind to try, but could use suggestions.
KC
I've replaced about all of them, and I tested for leaks and had none. Over the past few days, I've noticed I have less boost, so I re leak tested and I have like 5 leaks!
Its ridiculous!
I have a few things in mind to try, but could use suggestions.
KC
#161
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Guys,
Decided to try something simple and run the shortest path possible to the throttle body from the SC outlet. Also got rid of that dinky filter and put in a much bigger K@N.
The only thing I need to worry about is intake temps. I have an IAT sensor that I will install tomorrow so I can see how high they get.
I'll let you know. If temps don't get to high, I would have to say this is the optimal way to run piping.
Also notice the PS pump resivoir re-location.
Decided to try something simple and run the shortest path possible to the throttle body from the SC outlet. Also got rid of that dinky filter and put in a much bigger K@N.
The only thing I need to worry about is intake temps. I have an IAT sensor that I will install tomorrow so I can see how high they get.
I'll let you know. If temps don't get to high, I would have to say this is the optimal way to run piping.
Also notice the PS pump resivoir re-location.