Boosting my 95SC4 and some other projects
#212
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Close up of what I ended up doing to finally seal the EGR. I had allot of trouble getting it to seal without leaks. I finally took of the whole assembly and made a metal plate using the gasket as a template. I drilled holes for the bolts and for the PCV. Had to use sealer on the one side for the PCV.
#213
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Some finished pics of my engine bay. Note the missing egr, fpr vsv, evap vsv, power steering vac lines and coolant lines. I eliminated all of the coolant lines, the ones that go from the rear coolant junction to the egr to the iac to the throttle body and back to the junction. Also worth noting is the MAP sensor plumbed into the front of the manifold.
#216
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Now, my biggest problem...I'm a wuss and I'm a bit scared of starting the car. LOL. That and my neighbors are outside in their front yard. Even if all is good and the car runs without any problems, I'm sure it will smoke like crazy for a couple of minutes due to the amount of throttle body cleaner I sprayed into the intake manifold.
Wish me luck!
KC
Wish me luck!
KC
#217
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Ok, started the car. Bit of a wandering idle, still. When I unplug the MAF, it idles like butter. So, I'm kinda at the same conclusion, I either have two bad MAF's or a vac leak somewhere.
I still don't think I have (anymore) a leak, if I do, I can't find it. I finally managed to get the EGR sealed and, as far as I can tell, the injector orings no longer leak. Leaks I've had in the past didn't cause the AFR to wander so much, just ran a little on the lean side and went rich with boost. I really think I have two bad MAF's. I have a smoke machine at work, I may try using it to be sure.
On the plus side, since the idle is smooth with the MAF unplugged, the injectors must be working well. Also, rules out mechanical problems.
I'm going to run speed density and see if I can get a decent tune going. The idle and AFR at idle have always been a little funky running SD, but not nearly as bad as I'm having now with the MAF plugged in.
My VF voltages seem to be.. 0 volts (open loop), 0.5 volts (very rich), 1.0 volt (rich), 2.0 volts (perfect), 3.2 volts (lean) and 4.5 volts (very lean). These are the different voltages I've seen. When taking out fuel to compensate for the injectors, I only took out 10% to get my VF at 2.0 volts. I figured it would take more than that. I have a can of fuel injector cleaner I plan to use tomorrow. The kind that gets plumbed into the fuel line and the car runs off the can with the fuel pump disabled. Should help clean them up some.
Should be an interesting drive to work tomorrow.
KC
I still don't think I have (anymore) a leak, if I do, I can't find it. I finally managed to get the EGR sealed and, as far as I can tell, the injector orings no longer leak. Leaks I've had in the past didn't cause the AFR to wander so much, just ran a little on the lean side and went rich with boost. I really think I have two bad MAF's. I have a smoke machine at work, I may try using it to be sure.
On the plus side, since the idle is smooth with the MAF unplugged, the injectors must be working well. Also, rules out mechanical problems.
I'm going to run speed density and see if I can get a decent tune going. The idle and AFR at idle have always been a little funky running SD, but not nearly as bad as I'm having now with the MAF plugged in.
My VF voltages seem to be.. 0 volts (open loop), 0.5 volts (very rich), 1.0 volt (rich), 2.0 volts (perfect), 3.2 volts (lean) and 4.5 volts (very lean). These are the different voltages I've seen. When taking out fuel to compensate for the injectors, I only took out 10% to get my VF at 2.0 volts. I figured it would take more than that. I have a can of fuel injector cleaner I plan to use tomorrow. The kind that gets plumbed into the fuel line and the car runs off the can with the fuel pump disabled. Should help clean them up some.
Should be an interesting drive to work tomorrow.
KC
#218
Lexus Champion
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KC...car looks clean as hell. It is definitely a supercharged car now. All of the subtle and not so subtle mods that you have done to the car have really brought it to form. I will be anxious to hear how the car comes around with the rough idle. If you really go all out with the SD set up, I bet you can make it totally kick *** while eliminating your MAF woes. Good luck man.
#219
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Thanks Blizzy.
How's the move going? I'm surprised to see you on here tonight.
KC
How's the move going? I'm surprised to see you on here tonight.
KC
KC...car looks clean as hell. It is definitely a supercharged car now. All of the subtle and not so subtle mods that you have done to the car have really brought it to form. I will be anxious to hear how the car comes around with the rough idle. If you really go all out with the SD set up, I bet you can make it totally kick *** while eliminating your MAF woes. Good luck man.
#220
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Update. Running speed density.
I am no longer having lean issues with boost, so far anyway. With very little fuel added, I am maintaining 12 to 1 without any problems. I actually had to take some fuel out from my original guess, the car was bogging down with boost at 10 to 1.
Now, if I can just figure out why my idle and low speed cruising is so lean. I think that I either have a vac leak (have not been able to find anything) or NOW it's just a matter of tuning. Running speed density, a small vac leak shouldn't be a big deal. I have a smoke machine at work, I'm going to smoke the intake tomorrow.
Adding mainscale fuel seems to help me cruise and idle closer to 14.7, which is weird cause I have bigger injectors now.
If I work out the tune with speed density, I would love to get rid of the MAF. I need to figure out away to keep the CEL from coming on because of the IAT.
I hadn't mentioned this before I don't think, but a couple other things I did. I re-installed a resistor to keep the CEL from coming on for the O2 heater. Also, I took the very top of the EGR off (the part with the plug) from the assembly, plugged it in and hid it under the intake manifold to keep from throwing an EGR code. So far, no check engine light and, I have traction control again.
KC
I am no longer having lean issues with boost, so far anyway. With very little fuel added, I am maintaining 12 to 1 without any problems. I actually had to take some fuel out from my original guess, the car was bogging down with boost at 10 to 1.
Now, if I can just figure out why my idle and low speed cruising is so lean. I think that I either have a vac leak (have not been able to find anything) or NOW it's just a matter of tuning. Running speed density, a small vac leak shouldn't be a big deal. I have a smoke machine at work, I'm going to smoke the intake tomorrow.
Adding mainscale fuel seems to help me cruise and idle closer to 14.7, which is weird cause I have bigger injectors now.
If I work out the tune with speed density, I would love to get rid of the MAF. I need to figure out away to keep the CEL from coming on because of the IAT.
I hadn't mentioned this before I don't think, but a couple other things I did. I re-installed a resistor to keep the CEL from coming on for the O2 heater. Also, I took the very top of the EGR off (the part with the plug) from the assembly, plugged it in and hid it under the intake manifold to keep from throwing an EGR code. So far, no check engine light and, I have traction control again.
KC
#221
Lexus Champion
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Have you heard of the carb cleaner trick for vacuum leaks? Let the car run until it warms up, and spray carb cleaner onto the vacuum lines, if the idle surges, then you have a leak in that area. That's how we test for vacuum leaks on the KA. If you've ever worked on a ka, you'll know how many vacuum lines there are underneath the intake mani....
#222
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I did try that to some extent. I really don't like spraying highly flameable liquids on a running motor though.
About a month ago, I saw a guy at work catch an SC400 engine bay on fire after spraying it with brake cleaner. Don't want that to happen to mine.
I'm going to try and use the EVAP smoke machine a bit later today. If there is a leak, it should appear.
KC
About a month ago, I saw a guy at work catch an SC400 engine bay on fire after spraying it with brake cleaner. Don't want that to happen to mine.
I'm going to try and use the EVAP smoke machine a bit later today. If there is a leak, it should appear.
KC
Have you heard of the carb cleaner trick for vacuum leaks? Let the car run until it warms up, and spray carb cleaner onto the vacuum lines, if the idle surges, then you have a leak in that area. That's how we test for vacuum leaks on the KA. If you've ever worked on a ka, you'll know how many vacuum lines there are underneath the intake mani....
#223
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Update, mostly good news!
I used the EVAP smoke machine at work, no leaks found, at all. My entire intake setup, all the way to the supercharger inlet, passes fedral emmsions standards for testing LEV-II EVAP systems. This is very good.
I know it's kind of complicated, so I'll go over it again quickly. The fuel trim readings can be monitored via terminals VF1 and VF2 in the data link connector under the hood. VF1 is bank 1, drivers side. VF2 is bank 2, passenger side. The two halves of the engine are monitored and controlled seperately by the ECU. The 02 sensors (including the rear ones according to the RM) are what provide feedback on the AFR to the ECU. In my case, my wideband is installed into the front bank 1 spot and, up untill recently, the ECU has not been getting an AFR signal as a result. So, bank 1 of the engine has been in open loop while bank 2 has been in closed loop. I bridged the terminals between oxy1 and oxy2 in the data link conector under the hood. This results in a signal being sent to the ECU for bank 1 and 2 based on the O2 readings from bank 2.
Anyway, I figured out that my bridged connection wasn't making good contact so the signal wasn't getting to the ECU for bank 1. I de-pinned an O2 sensor connector and made a more proper jumper wire using the pins. Once I decide for sure that my problems are gone, I will come up with a more perminent solution. Hopefully, I will someday get my EKT headers and will be able to relocate the wideband and re-install the missing O2 sensor.
Running in speed density and with the terminals jumped, I am in closed loop while idling and cruising. Going into open loop with load, with the MAFTPro making sure I maintain my desired AFR when in boost. After fixing the bridge across oxy1 and oxy2, the car runs mostly very well. I started out with -15% fuel due to the larger than stock injectors. While watching the VF reading, I played with the mainscale fuel until it was pretty much staying at 2 volts. 2 volts is what I believe to be 14.7 to 1 in the eyes of the ECU. I ended up at -12%.
There still seems to be a few kinks while running speed density, but the car is running 100 times better after fixing the oxy terminal bridge. Conquering one problem after another until I run out of problems will eventually lead to an awsome V8 Lexus!
Once I manage to get the car to consistently run well, I will head to a dyno to get a dyno sheet if nothing else. I very much hope to be able to make it to Texas for tuning.
KC
I used the EVAP smoke machine at work, no leaks found, at all. My entire intake setup, all the way to the supercharger inlet, passes fedral emmsions standards for testing LEV-II EVAP systems. This is very good.
I know it's kind of complicated, so I'll go over it again quickly. The fuel trim readings can be monitored via terminals VF1 and VF2 in the data link connector under the hood. VF1 is bank 1, drivers side. VF2 is bank 2, passenger side. The two halves of the engine are monitored and controlled seperately by the ECU. The 02 sensors (including the rear ones according to the RM) are what provide feedback on the AFR to the ECU. In my case, my wideband is installed into the front bank 1 spot and, up untill recently, the ECU has not been getting an AFR signal as a result. So, bank 1 of the engine has been in open loop while bank 2 has been in closed loop. I bridged the terminals between oxy1 and oxy2 in the data link conector under the hood. This results in a signal being sent to the ECU for bank 1 and 2 based on the O2 readings from bank 2.
Anyway, I figured out that my bridged connection wasn't making good contact so the signal wasn't getting to the ECU for bank 1. I de-pinned an O2 sensor connector and made a more proper jumper wire using the pins. Once I decide for sure that my problems are gone, I will come up with a more perminent solution. Hopefully, I will someday get my EKT headers and will be able to relocate the wideband and re-install the missing O2 sensor.
Running in speed density and with the terminals jumped, I am in closed loop while idling and cruising. Going into open loop with load, with the MAFTPro making sure I maintain my desired AFR when in boost. After fixing the bridge across oxy1 and oxy2, the car runs mostly very well. I started out with -15% fuel due to the larger than stock injectors. While watching the VF reading, I played with the mainscale fuel until it was pretty much staying at 2 volts. 2 volts is what I believe to be 14.7 to 1 in the eyes of the ECU. I ended up at -12%.
There still seems to be a few kinks while running speed density, but the car is running 100 times better after fixing the oxy terminal bridge. Conquering one problem after another until I run out of problems will eventually lead to an awsome V8 Lexus!
Once I manage to get the car to consistently run well, I will head to a dyno to get a dyno sheet if nothing else. I very much hope to be able to make it to Texas for tuning.
KC
#225
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Update and a few new pics.
Since putting in the larger injectors and jumping the oxy1 and oxy2 terminals, the car runs 10 times better.
I have now gone full speed density. See pics. I'm letting the factory ECU control closed loop driving, idling and cruising. I am using the MAFTPro to run speed density, compensate for the larger injectors, and to keep my AFR tight with boost.
I am, of course, still having a couple of problems. Having some trouble with the closed loop idling and low speed cruising. I think that for some reason, bank 2 is running a bit richer than bank 1. Since I'm only using bank 2 for AFR information to the ECU, I'm going lean on bank 1 while in closed loop. At times, it's perfect, no problems and at other times, the ECU is leaning everything out based on the O2 reading from bank 2. The obvious fix here is to find a way to put the bank 1 O2 sensor back in and find another place to put the wideband, but I'm not willing to do that just yet.
I have to suspect that one of the injectors on the bank 2 side is possibly leaking a little. The problem has gotten allot better over a couple of days of driving, so hopefully, the old / used injectors just need to wake up. Today, I pushed the car pretty hard on a drive and after doing so, the closed loop operation was about perfect.
Another weird problem. The car idles like poop in park or neutral, but is fine in gear. ??? I think this may be a problem with the speed density setup, I'm planning on making some logs for the MAFTPro tech support within the next few days to see what they think.
Regardless, the car is running better now than it has in weeks! I've set my boost AFR to 12.5 to 1 for lower RPM's and 12.0 to 1 in the upper RPM's. Working perfectly with very little fuel being added.
KC
Since putting in the larger injectors and jumping the oxy1 and oxy2 terminals, the car runs 10 times better.
I have now gone full speed density. See pics. I'm letting the factory ECU control closed loop driving, idling and cruising. I am using the MAFTPro to run speed density, compensate for the larger injectors, and to keep my AFR tight with boost.
I am, of course, still having a couple of problems. Having some trouble with the closed loop idling and low speed cruising. I think that for some reason, bank 2 is running a bit richer than bank 1. Since I'm only using bank 2 for AFR information to the ECU, I'm going lean on bank 1 while in closed loop. At times, it's perfect, no problems and at other times, the ECU is leaning everything out based on the O2 reading from bank 2. The obvious fix here is to find a way to put the bank 1 O2 sensor back in and find another place to put the wideband, but I'm not willing to do that just yet.
I have to suspect that one of the injectors on the bank 2 side is possibly leaking a little. The problem has gotten allot better over a couple of days of driving, so hopefully, the old / used injectors just need to wake up. Today, I pushed the car pretty hard on a drive and after doing so, the closed loop operation was about perfect.
Another weird problem. The car idles like poop in park or neutral, but is fine in gear. ??? I think this may be a problem with the speed density setup, I'm planning on making some logs for the MAFTPro tech support within the next few days to see what they think.
Regardless, the car is running better now than it has in weeks! I've set my boost AFR to 12.5 to 1 for lower RPM's and 12.0 to 1 in the upper RPM's. Working perfectly with very little fuel being added.
KC