Boosting my 95SC4 and some other projects
11-23-08, 07:24 PM
#421
Sorry on the late reply. I run e85 on my 92 SC4 with just an SAFC. This is going to sound like complete BS to everyone that reads this, but here goes. Since our ecu is self learning (vF signal check out the turbo mkIII's about it) it will see if the car is lean or rich and adjust accordingly. I used to fiddle around with my SAFC to get it to run e85, but realized after I reset the ecu (after a few days) the car runs like crap on e85 with my safc settings.
So I tried something, I left the safc at 0 on all the hi/lo maps. I then filled 3/4 tank of premium and 1/4 of e85. The car idled decent, but sometimes would bog, but after halfway through the tank it ran perfect. So then I went to half and half and same thing, after a few days, she ran good.
Then I went to 1/4 premium and 3/4 e85, and the same deal, and now I'm at 100% e85 and the car runs great! But just to check my theory, I reset the ecu, and the car would not idle at all until I turned my lo map to +30%
So I went ahead and turned everything to +30 and ran the car on 100% e85, and it relearned in a matter of hours. After about 50 miles with the safc settings to 30%, it negated the safc settings, and I was able to put it to 0% and the car ran.
I know it's hard to believe, but it works. I also used the same method on my MKIII. However, it doesn't work that well on my MKIII than the SC.
After awhile of running e85, I'm able to make more adjustments than before. Again, I know it sounds like complete BS, but that is how I did it.
You are supposed to run roughly 30% more fuel. Before my SC, I was a 240 guy with a ka-t. In order for me to run e85, I had to up my base fuel pressure to 15 more than stock (so it was 48 instead of 34) and fiddled with the safc a bit (I was also running nismo 555 which in reality flow 615cc, jwt ecu, and z32 maf) and she ran great!
Again, I know it's hard to believe, but it's true, if you want, have someone come down to where I live, and I'll show them I run e85 without any settings on my safc, and I'm still rocking stock injectors.
Also, I'm assuming the car is trying to relearn itself, it messes with the tps settings. Like I monitor my THR percentage on my safc, and I noticed that when I was mixing fuels, it would variate the TPS voltage. Sometimes it'd be 0.1, and sometimes it'd jump to 25%. I thought it was the wiring itself, but I verified that the solder on the wire was still good. So I dunno.
Sorry for the long read! Again I know it's hard to believe, but this is how I did it.
So I tried something, I left the safc at 0 on all the hi/lo maps. I then filled 3/4 tank of premium and 1/4 of e85. The car idled decent, but sometimes would bog, but after halfway through the tank it ran perfect. So then I went to half and half and same thing, after a few days, she ran good.
Then I went to 1/4 premium and 3/4 e85, and the same deal, and now I'm at 100% e85 and the car runs great! But just to check my theory, I reset the ecu, and the car would not idle at all until I turned my lo map to +30%
So I went ahead and turned everything to +30 and ran the car on 100% e85, and it relearned in a matter of hours. After about 50 miles with the safc settings to 30%, it negated the safc settings, and I was able to put it to 0% and the car ran.
I know it's hard to believe, but it works. I also used the same method on my MKIII. However, it doesn't work that well on my MKIII than the SC.
After awhile of running e85, I'm able to make more adjustments than before. Again, I know it sounds like complete BS, but that is how I did it.
You are supposed to run roughly 30% more fuel. Before my SC, I was a 240 guy with a ka-t. In order for me to run e85, I had to up my base fuel pressure to 15 more than stock (so it was 48 instead of 34) and fiddled with the safc a bit (I was also running nismo 555 which in reality flow 615cc, jwt ecu, and z32 maf) and she ran great!
Again, I know it's hard to believe, but it's true, if you want, have someone come down to where I live, and I'll show them I run e85 without any settings on my safc, and I'm still rocking stock injectors.
Also, I'm assuming the car is trying to relearn itself, it messes with the tps settings. Like I monitor my THR percentage on my safc, and I noticed that when I was mixing fuels, it would variate the TPS voltage. Sometimes it'd be 0.1, and sometimes it'd jump to 25%. I thought it was the wiring itself, but I verified that the solder on the wire was still good. So I dunno.
Sorry for the long read! Again I know it's hard to believe, but this is how I did it.
11-23-08, 07:26 PM
#422
Sorry on the late reply. I run e85 on my 92 SC4 with just an SAFC. This is going to sound like complete BS to everyone that reads this, but here goes. Since our ecu is self learning (vF signal check out the turbo mkIII's about it) it will see if the car is lean or rich and adjust accordingly. I used to fiddle around with my SAFC to get it to run e85, but realized after I reset the ecu (after a few days) the car runs like crap on e85 with my safc settings.
So I tried something, I left the safc at 0 on all the hi/lo maps. I then filled 3/4 tank of premium and 1/4 of e85. The car idled decent, but sometimes would bog, but after halfway through the tank it ran perfect. So then I went to half and half and same thing, after a few days, she ran good.
Then I went to 1/4 premium and 3/4 e85, and the same deal, and now I'm at 100% e85 and the car runs great! But just to check my theory, I reset the ecu, and the car would not idle at all until I turned my lo map to +30%
So I went ahead and turned everything to +30 and ran the car on 100% e85, and it relearned in a matter of hours. After about 50 miles with the safc settings to 30%, it negated the safc settings, and I was able to put it to 0% and the car ran.
I know it's hard to believe, but it works. I also used the same method on my MKIII. However, it doesn't work that well on my MKIII than the SC.
After awhile of running e85, I'm able to make more adjustments than before. Again, I know it sounds like complete BS, but that is how I did it.
You are supposed to run roughly 30% more fuel. Before my SC, I was a 240 guy with a ka-t. In order for me to run e85, I had to up my base fuel pressure to 15 more than stock (so it was 48 instead of 34) and fiddled with the safc a bit (I was also running nismo 555 which in reality flow 615cc, jwt ecu, and z32 maf) and she ran great!
Again, I know it's hard to believe, but it's true, if you want, have someone come down to where I live, and I'll show them I run e85 without any settings on my safc, and I'm still rocking stock injectors.
Also, I'm assuming the car is trying to relearn itself, it messes with the tps settings. Like I monitor my THR percentage on my safc, and I noticed that when I was mixing fuels, it would variate the TPS voltage. Sometimes it'd be 0.1, and sometimes it'd jump to 25%. I thought it was the wiring itself, but I verified that the solder on the wire was still good. So I dunno.
Sorry for the long read! Again I know it's hard to believe, but this is how I did it.
So I tried something, I left the safc at 0 on all the hi/lo maps. I then filled 3/4 tank of premium and 1/4 of e85. The car idled decent, but sometimes would bog, but after halfway through the tank it ran perfect. So then I went to half and half and same thing, after a few days, she ran good.
Then I went to 1/4 premium and 3/4 e85, and the same deal, and now I'm at 100% e85 and the car runs great! But just to check my theory, I reset the ecu, and the car would not idle at all until I turned my lo map to +30%
So I went ahead and turned everything to +30 and ran the car on 100% e85, and it relearned in a matter of hours. After about 50 miles with the safc settings to 30%, it negated the safc settings, and I was able to put it to 0% and the car ran.
I know it's hard to believe, but it works. I also used the same method on my MKIII. However, it doesn't work that well on my MKIII than the SC.
After awhile of running e85, I'm able to make more adjustments than before. Again, I know it sounds like complete BS, but that is how I did it.
You are supposed to run roughly 30% more fuel. Before my SC, I was a 240 guy with a ka-t. In order for me to run e85, I had to up my base fuel pressure to 15 more than stock (so it was 48 instead of 34) and fiddled with the safc a bit (I was also running nismo 555 which in reality flow 615cc, jwt ecu, and z32 maf) and she ran great!
Again, I know it's hard to believe, but it's true, if you want, have someone come down to where I live, and I'll show them I run e85 without any settings on my safc, and I'm still rocking stock injectors.
Also, I'm assuming the car is trying to relearn itself, it messes with the tps settings. Like I monitor my THR percentage on my safc, and I noticed that when I was mixing fuels, it would variate the TPS voltage. Sometimes it'd be 0.1, and sometimes it'd jump to 25%. I thought it was the wiring itself, but I verified that the solder on the wire was still good. So I dunno.
Sorry for the long read! Again I know it's hard to believe, but this is how I did it.
11-24-08, 10:32 PM
#423
Ya, I sucked at Darlington but that was a while ago now.
The car idles normally. Idles at 700rpm + or -. No, I do not have any cats. The car stinks! LOL. I have all the stock sensors more or less in the stock locations. It's a 95 so no, the CEL is not on for a cat code. 96 and up would definately throw a p0420 and a p0430. But, I'm sure that could be fixed with simulators.
I have actually been thinking allot about this. There is a guy on Lextreme who made himself a short runner lower manifold to get rid of the cross flow. Bolted the upper manifold to his short runner and he says he's gained 5mph (I think) in the quarter. That is no doubt a significant hp increase.
There are a few people I've been thinking about contacting about making me something similar.
Actually, see the fastest SC400 thread in a few minutes for an awesome update!
Thanks! I take it you are planning something yourself?
KC
The car idles normally. Idles at 700rpm + or -. No, I do not have any cats. The car stinks! LOL. I have all the stock sensors more or less in the stock locations. It's a 95 so no, the CEL is not on for a cat code. 96 and up would definately throw a p0420 and a p0430. But, I'm sure that could be fixed with simulators.
I have actually been thinking allot about this. There is a guy on Lextreme who made himself a short runner lower manifold to get rid of the cross flow. Bolted the upper manifold to his short runner and he says he's gained 5mph (I think) in the quarter. That is no doubt a significant hp increase.
There are a few people I've been thinking about contacting about making me something similar.
Actually, see the fastest SC400 thread in a few minutes for an awesome update!
Thanks! I take it you are planning something yourself?
KC
I was a Nitrious guy looking to mix a few 430 vvti motor parts into a VVTI 99 SC400 with Nitrous but...... You brought new life to Superchagers here for the SC400. I saw the parking lot pics of your car on some thread. Wow what a Big time Sleeper !
A 12sec daily driver street car takes 95% or more cars on the street. Even if they are just a little quicker, your still get them if they arent dead serious from the start on their race game. I once said on a thread that I wished the SC in SC400 meant SuperCharger from the factory. My hats off to you. Waiting on the low 12's.
That car is Deadly ! A + job.
11-26-08, 08:37 PM
#424
jgscott, you really are too kind. My car is really nothing special...just fast!
As far as the throttle body and intake porting, I agree. There is bound to be some gain. Only problem I have doing this, my car is my daily driver. If I really wanted to send the throttle body out and port the intake(s), I'd have to find a junkyard motor to steal the parts from to eliminate down time.
I kind of figure I'd do the same thing if I ever put cams in. Pull a pair of heads off a salvaged motor, send them out for a mild port, install the cams / shim the valves onto the spare heads and then just swap them out when time allows.
Also, going to send you a PM.
ihiryu, thanks for the info! I think I'll stick with good ole petrol for now although I might give e10 a try. A good portion of the stations around here have the "this gasoline contains up to 10% ethanol" signs on the pumps.
I'd be kind of worried about flat out trying to make the switch as you have. May work NA but with boost it's a completly different ball game and I already think I might be approaching the limit of my injectors.
----------------------------------------
Some new stuff.
I'm going to install a resistor into the EGR temp sensor circuit hoping to keep the CEL off. Mainly I'd like to have the traction control working. I tend to get carried away sometimes and it would be nice to have the TRAC operational.
I have also been seriously considering a mod to the TRAC system. The TRAC on the SC400 works by both limiting throttle using the sub-throttle plate and by activating the rear brakes. The system is very clumsy and doesn't really work all the well with all the extra power, usually just totally kills any attempt to accelorate. Anyway, I have been considering removing the sub-throttle plate. This would (in theory) make the TRAC ECU think it's controlling the throttle plate and it could then still control the rear brakes. Might help with traction problems at the track.
I did a drain and fill on the transmission, filled with B&M trick shift fluid. So far so good. I think it has actually helped the trans shift a little faster.
KC
As far as the throttle body and intake porting, I agree. There is bound to be some gain. Only problem I have doing this, my car is my daily driver. If I really wanted to send the throttle body out and port the intake(s), I'd have to find a junkyard motor to steal the parts from to eliminate down time.
I kind of figure I'd do the same thing if I ever put cams in. Pull a pair of heads off a salvaged motor, send them out for a mild port, install the cams / shim the valves onto the spare heads and then just swap them out when time allows.
Also, going to send you a PM.
ihiryu, thanks for the info! I think I'll stick with good ole petrol for now although I might give e10 a try. A good portion of the stations around here have the "this gasoline contains up to 10% ethanol" signs on the pumps.
I'd be kind of worried about flat out trying to make the switch as you have. May work NA but with boost it's a completly different ball game and I already think I might be approaching the limit of my injectors.
----------------------------------------
Some new stuff.
I'm going to install a resistor into the EGR temp sensor circuit hoping to keep the CEL off. Mainly I'd like to have the traction control working. I tend to get carried away sometimes and it would be nice to have the TRAC operational.
I have also been seriously considering a mod to the TRAC system. The TRAC on the SC400 works by both limiting throttle using the sub-throttle plate and by activating the rear brakes. The system is very clumsy and doesn't really work all the well with all the extra power, usually just totally kills any attempt to accelorate. Anyway, I have been considering removing the sub-throttle plate. This would (in theory) make the TRAC ECU think it's controlling the throttle plate and it could then still control the rear brakes. Might help with traction problems at the track.
I did a drain and fill on the transmission, filled with B&M trick shift fluid. So far so good. I think it has actually helped the trans shift a little faster.
KC
12-03-08, 06:31 AM
#425
A few quick updates.
I've had the resistor for the EGR temp sensor installed for a few days now and so far no CEL or pending codes.
Last night I drilled out the screws and removed the sub throttle plate from the throttle body. When re-installing the throttle body, I dropped one of the bolts down in the valley underneath the lower intake manifold. I need to run to the store and get a magnetic pickup tool so I can retreive the bolt and reinstall the throttle body. I'll see how well the TRAC works without the subthrottle plate a little later today.
I'm still pretty sure the trick shift has had a positive affect on the transmission shift firmness.
That's it for now.
KC
I've had the resistor for the EGR temp sensor installed for a few days now and so far no CEL or pending codes.
Last night I drilled out the screws and removed the sub throttle plate from the throttle body. When re-installing the throttle body, I dropped one of the bolts down in the valley underneath the lower intake manifold. I need to run to the store and get a magnetic pickup tool so I can retreive the bolt and reinstall the throttle body. I'll see how well the TRAC works without the subthrottle plate a little later today.
I'm still pretty sure the trick shift has had a positive affect on the transmission shift firmness.
That's it for now.
KC
11-23-09, 07:07 PM
#430
Honestly, who knows.
I've made so many changes, some little some big since starting this project.
I've been running the small pulley for awhile now. I somewhat recently took out the intercooler (which gave 3-4 psi more to the engine) and put in water / meth injection. I have more recently taken out some weight and went from a 3 inch to a 3.5 inch suction side pipe.
I have been slowly knocking the time down. My car is somewhat consistent between runs on the same day but can vary a bit between runs on different days. Weather has allot to do with it.
60 foot times are key to me getting good times. My best 1/4 run is a 12.51. This is running an 8.058 1/8 time with a 1.856 60ft. I have run a 7.874 on an 1/8 mile track with a 1.801 60ft. So half a tenth in the 60 gained me almost 2 tenths in the 1/8 and would have likely been a 12.1xx 1/4.
If I could hit a 1.6 60ft or even a 1.7 (like I really think I should be able to) I'd very likely run mid-high 11's.
I have some MT DR's but haven't had the chance to try them out yet since getting my trans rebuilt and my converter fixed. Hopefully soon.
KC
I've made so many changes, some little some big since starting this project.
I've been running the small pulley for awhile now. I somewhat recently took out the intercooler (which gave 3-4 psi more to the engine) and put in water / meth injection. I have more recently taken out some weight and went from a 3 inch to a 3.5 inch suction side pipe.
I have been slowly knocking the time down. My car is somewhat consistent between runs on the same day but can vary a bit between runs on different days. Weather has allot to do with it.
60 foot times are key to me getting good times. My best 1/4 run is a 12.51. This is running an 8.058 1/8 time with a 1.856 60ft. I have run a 7.874 on an 1/8 mile track with a 1.801 60ft. So half a tenth in the 60 gained me almost 2 tenths in the 1/8 and would have likely been a 12.1xx 1/4.
If I could hit a 1.6 60ft or even a 1.7 (like I really think I should be able to) I'd very likely run mid-high 11's.
I have some MT DR's but haven't had the chance to try them out yet since getting my trans rebuilt and my converter fixed. Hopefully soon.
KC
01-15-10, 06:46 PM
#432
Hey guys. I know it's been a million years since I've udpated this thread but I have been busy as of late and thought I'd share.
I ran a 7.703 not to long ago, 1/8 mile. Should (maybe) get me high 11's in the 1/4. Video is on youtube.
Haven't been able to run the 1/4 yet. Weather has not been good and the tracks have been closed. I might be able to run tomorrow if the weather holds, fingers crossed.
The list, sorry if I've mentioned some of this already:
Rebuilt the trans with Raybestos blue plates and an "upgraded" second gear sprag.
Had the tq converter re-stalled to about 3200rpm. Added a bigger (much) trans cooler.
Intercooler has been gone for awhile, using WM injection.
Put in some racing seats.
Deleted the ABS / Trac system.
Replaced both front and rear rotors. All were under spec after the last cutting.
Replaced front and rear pads with EBC "redstuff" pads.
Bought and installed Megan Racing poly motor and trans mounts.
Bought and installed a Cartech / Bell Engineering FMU. I think I've really been pushing the 315 injectors. Figured this will give me a much better safety margin without spending a ton of money to buy bigger injectors. I have it set for about a 2 to 1 gain with an "on set" pressure of about 60psi.
Bought and installed, Technafit SS braided brake lines.
Have just recently purchased a ton of stuff to rebuild / update my suspension. Front and rear sway bar links. Front and rear Prothane sway bar bushings. Front and rear Prothane control arm bushings. And, Megan Racing adjustable traction rods. I've been meaning to do the CA bushings for awhile now, been putting it off. Figured I'd go ahead and do everything while I was at it. I might still get some steering rack bushings.
I could use some advice on what to do with the adjustment on the traction arms. I sort of understand the theory on having them adjustable just not sure how to use them.
Purchased solid diff and subframe collars from here: http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?17 (bottom of page). Not sure how these work yet but I have some slop in the rear end somewhere and I figured for $50 I can't go wrong.
I think thats about it. I'll update with some new 1/4 times if the track is open.
Khris
I ran a 7.703 not to long ago, 1/8 mile. Should (maybe) get me high 11's in the 1/4. Video is on youtube.
Haven't been able to run the 1/4 yet. Weather has not been good and the tracks have been closed. I might be able to run tomorrow if the weather holds, fingers crossed.
The list, sorry if I've mentioned some of this already:
Rebuilt the trans with Raybestos blue plates and an "upgraded" second gear sprag.
Had the tq converter re-stalled to about 3200rpm. Added a bigger (much) trans cooler.
Intercooler has been gone for awhile, using WM injection.
Put in some racing seats.
Deleted the ABS / Trac system.
Replaced both front and rear rotors. All were under spec after the last cutting.
Replaced front and rear pads with EBC "redstuff" pads.
Bought and installed Megan Racing poly motor and trans mounts.
Bought and installed a Cartech / Bell Engineering FMU. I think I've really been pushing the 315 injectors. Figured this will give me a much better safety margin without spending a ton of money to buy bigger injectors. I have it set for about a 2 to 1 gain with an "on set" pressure of about 60psi.
Bought and installed, Technafit SS braided brake lines.
Have just recently purchased a ton of stuff to rebuild / update my suspension. Front and rear sway bar links. Front and rear Prothane sway bar bushings. Front and rear Prothane control arm bushings. And, Megan Racing adjustable traction rods. I've been meaning to do the CA bushings for awhile now, been putting it off. Figured I'd go ahead and do everything while I was at it. I might still get some steering rack bushings.
I could use some advice on what to do with the adjustment on the traction arms. I sort of understand the theory on having them adjustable just not sure how to use them.
Purchased solid diff and subframe collars from here: http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?17 (bottom of page). Not sure how these work yet but I have some slop in the rear end somewhere and I figured for $50 I can't go wrong.
I think thats about it. I'll update with some new 1/4 times if the track is open.
Khris
01-18-10, 07:29 PM
#434
So I didn't get to run Saturday. Drove two hours to Darlington and it was raining. Was only supposed to be a 20% chance. I swear it started sprinkling at the same moment the track was in view.
Oh well, next month I guess. By then I should have all my recent purchases installed.
Added to the list:
Steering rack bushings.
Rear toe control arms. Haven't bought this yet but am planning to. Possibly Megan but I'm likely going to get one of these... http://www.hardrace.com/products.asp...6&strClass2=36 The one on the lower left. I've already purchsed Megan traction rods from assualtech.com.
Also, picture of the FMU install. Not where I was planning on putting it but the thing is MUCH larger than I thought it would be.
KC
Oh well, next month I guess. By then I should have all my recent purchases installed.Added to the list:
Steering rack bushings.
Rear toe control arms. Haven't bought this yet but am planning to. Possibly Megan but I'm likely going to get one of these... http://www.hardrace.com/products.asp...6&strClass2=36 The one on the lower left. I've already purchsed Megan traction rods from assualtech.com.
Also, picture of the FMU install. Not where I was planning on putting it but the thing is MUCH larger than I thought it would be.
KC
10-20-11, 08:49 PM
#435
Hey KC, sorry for bumping your thread, but a lot of your pictures have gone down. I was hoping to see how you got the belt routing, also what year did you get the idlers from? I'm going to go SC pretty soon, so I was just reviewing your thread a little.