putting a TT master cylinder on the SC will depend on the year of the SC.

older SC's(92-94) use a master cylinder that mounts using 3 bolts.

newer SC's(95+) used a 2 bolt master cylinder. if you have an older SC you can buy the master cylinder and the brake booster off the TT supra to get the job done. if you have a never SC then the TT master cylinder is a direct bolt-in deal.

i have a 93 SC that use to have a 3 bolt master. i switched to a 2 bolt style booster and master cylinder from a 95 sc300. if/when i go all TT brakes all i need to buy is just the TT master to make it all work properly.

as far as the link to the harness tuck thread. duno you have to look and search lol

 

just to be clear, to reroute it all you have to do is unplug it from the cabin?

 

you have to remove the connectors from the back of the fuse box, run the harness through the engine bay, and put it back together as before. no cutting, no soldering, no taping, no BS.

 

in the photos the fender was removed. Does the fender have to be removed at all???

Also which wires/clips are for the hood and airbag?

 

THERE IS A COMPLETE WRITE UP ON THE PREVIOUS PAGE. wtf. try using at least 1% of your brain on some of these things.


On another note. I did this the other day and it went pretty smoothly. I ran into a bit of a clearance issue when trying to route the harness through the front frame hole. There wasnt enough room for me to reinstall the windshield fluid neck. I ended up breaking the zip-tie on the washer reservoir to get a little more slack. All in all, it was a super easy DIY. Thanks!

 

No, the fender doesn't need to be removed. Mine happened to be removed at the time. You just need to remove the liner.

The airbag harness's wire loom is always YELLOW.

The hood cable is black in color and about 1/8"- 3/16" in diameter.

You're not going to completely reroute the airbag or the hood cable like the main harness.
You're just going to slide it up out of the way of the tire. It's one of the last pictures where it's tucked up above the pinch weld.

It was necessary for me to cut and slice 5 wires associated with the windshield wipers as I said, but that's it.

 

if you dont want to cut the 5 wires for the wipers you need to remove the wipers, the plastic covering them, and expose the wiper motor underneath. then you can unplug the harness directly from the wiper motor and reroute.

cutting and resoldering is by far the easiest and fastest way to do it though.

if you are local and need it done i charge 100 bucks to do it.

 

I did mine today, it went pretty smooth w/o any prob......thanks for all the tips guys......

 

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You can also just repace the protective plastic sheath the harness is in the wheel well with a metal one but be warned if you are super low it could lead to cutting your tire

 

i didn't want a whole other wire loom running through the engine bay, so i just simply tucked the harness as high as possible under the fender and cut a piece of flat sheet metal to cover the harness. So that way when ever the tire bottoms out it just hits the sheetmetal and the harness is protected. Haven't had a problem in 3 years.

 

All i did was cable tied my harness up higher and i haven't had any issues at all. But then again, i've got a povo pack soarer with no options at all so the harness could be different.

 

any pics of rolled front fenders and rear ????

 

Obviously since many people on this thread have done it...That means the wire harness,air bag cable and hood latch cable are long enough to not have to be cut right?

 

I didnt relocate those, i just tucked them pretty high up.