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Engine Overheated...Where to Start?

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Old 01-08-08 | 07:35 AM
  #31  
19psi's Avatar
19psi
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From: Lou-Evil KY
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Originally Posted by turbohye
Thanks 19. Question. Do you think i could get away with some JBWELD on that. Also, is it even possible to just replace that nipple and fix it that way or is that not an option? Anyone know a good cheap OE radiator online? thanks
Is there even any measurement for this like possibly a thread size or plug that i could get from Lowes or Home Depot to fix this. Its a dinky hole that is barely worthy of being called expensive. If so correct me please.
thanks
if you can figure out a way to seal it up, go for it. i can't advise much on this without actually seeing it.
i dont' know if i'd risk blowing the repair out one day when you're driving along in the middle of nowhere over buying a radiator.
i'd buy the radiator from direct eql...

or www.radiators.com
Old 01-08-08 | 08:02 AM
  #32  
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turbohye
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From: maryland
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Originally Posted by 19psi
if you can figure out a way to seal it up, go for it. i can't advise much on this without actually seeing it.
i dont' know if i'd risk blowing the repair out one day when you're driving along in the middle of nowhere over buying a radiator.
i'd buy the radiator from direct eql...

or www.radiators.com
Thanks 19. I have gone ahead and ordered an OE spec radiator from Koyo. I was thinking the same about having the cold well burst later on. The rad was only 150 shipped so i should be good for a few mew years. I had gone to the parts stores and so forth but it seems as though nobody knows what im talking about. I just brought the Grand National out of the garage and charged the battery so i will drive that around for a while till i get the RAD installed. My theory was that, coolant was leaking from that hole and was filling up the skid plate until it got so large that it began to seep out of the center hole near the back of the pan (mine has one) at least if thats the case, then i could assume water was coming from the back of the engine, when this whole time it was the front. We will see after i install the Radiator. Hopefully it fixes the problem.
Thanks alot for your help guys. I will update this as soon as the RAD is in since i could have more than 1 leak.
-Tony
Old 01-09-08 | 05:31 AM
  #33  
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19psi
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From: Lou-Evil KY
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sounds like you're on the right path.
it's gotta suck driving around a GN while you're waiting! j/k
Old 01-09-08 | 06:37 AM
  #34  
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turbohye
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From: maryland
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Originally Posted by 19psi
sounds like you're on the right path.
it's gotta suck driving around a GN while you're waiting! j/k
hahah indeed
Old 01-09-08 | 07:02 AM
  #35  
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From: CO
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i think he broke his rad just to have an excuse to pull that bad boy out. love those cars, so sick. just fyi ive used jb weld and after the rad heats up it will split the weld like butter. stupid heat and pressure build up. lol
Old 02-07-08 | 10:28 PM
  #36  
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speed6
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From: Cali
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just to post what you already know.
oe MT's did not have that port.
what you might not know
The Pro-alliance Rad might need a bracket modified on the bottom (cut) i had to do this
i drove for a month+ on an oe cracked rad with a big 5" crack in the top. leaked AF, temp was normal, just added coolant about 1x a week
the fan shroud is 2 pieces.
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