Write up on SC300 Clutch 56K=No No!
03-19-11, 12:28 AM
#31
Lead Lap
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: CA
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im about to start changing my clutch and this is a big help. Just for anyone who needs to know(it took me forever to find and the dealer was no help)
Torque specs
Flywheel to crank 36 ft/lbs
Pressure Plate to flywheel 14 ft/lbs
I'll take some pics while I'm working on it and try and post some up for people. I would think there would be more info on this but it was very hard to find.
Jesse
Torque specs
Flywheel to crank 36 ft/lbs
Pressure Plate to flywheel 14 ft/lbs
I'll take some pics while I'm working on it and try and post some up for people. I would think there would be more info on this but it was very hard to find.
Jesse
flywheel bolts are 36ft lbs plus 90 degrees and always use new bolts... alot of tq specs on on the sticker under the hood
04-05-11, 10:19 PM
#32
this is the plug from the auto trans w/ the reverse light switch
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photo...14_1850306.jpg
and these are the 2 wires you attach to the reverse switch on the manual trans it doesent matter which way they are connected its just an on off switch
04-05-11, 10:36 PM
#33
just some pics of w58 stuff vs r154 i also did an auto to w58 swap have tones of pics can someone tell me how to start a new thread or start one for me so i can do a complete auto to w58 swap w/ pics?? i am new to forums pm me cause i dont konw if i will find this thread again lol
r154 in vice marren crawler parts and rebuild kit from driftmotion
maren crawler shift fork
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2720905_n.jpg
tried to salvage shifter housing from w58 to put on r154 but doesent fit not even close!! ha! pic of w58 /w tailhousing off
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3573942_n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1883405_n.jpg
pic of w58 easy way to tell w58 appart from r154 the slave cylinder facestwards thr rear of the car on w58 and bolts to trans case with 2 bolts pointing twards driver side r154 slave cly bolts into belhousing facingthe front of the car with the bolts facing the front of the engine
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photo...85_4007302.jpg
pic showing 92-94 (I believe thoes are the dates foe this style shifter ??? correct me if im wrong!) shifter housing placed on r154 to sho fittment issues
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4934075_n.jpg
got a ton more pics someone please pm me and show me how to start a thread or direct me to the correct one!!!
r154 in vice marren crawler parts and rebuild kit from driftmotion
maren crawler shift fork
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2720905_n.jpg
tried to salvage shifter housing from w58 to put on r154 but doesent fit not even close!! ha! pic of w58 /w tailhousing off
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3573942_n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1883405_n.jpg
pic of w58 easy way to tell w58 appart from r154 the slave cylinder facestwards thr rear of the car on w58 and bolts to trans case with 2 bolts pointing twards driver side r154 slave cly bolts into belhousing facingthe front of the car with the bolts facing the front of the engine
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photo...85_4007302.jpg
pic showing 92-94 (I believe thoes are the dates foe this style shifter ??? correct me if im wrong!) shifter housing placed on r154 to sho fittment issues
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4934075_n.jpg
got a ton more pics someone please pm me and show me how to start a thread or direct me to the correct one!!!
04-20-11, 12:10 PM
#36
This is definitely not the way to do it according to the FSM.
The flex coupling should be left attached to the propeller shaft (so only 3 bolts need removal) and matchmarks should be made for proper alignment when re-attaching back to the diff flange. Also, if you break apart the shaft at the center support bearing, you need to matchmark that too. If you fail to do so, you can't complain about weird vibration issues that arise afterward.
.02
The flex coupling should be left attached to the propeller shaft (so only 3 bolts need removal) and matchmarks should be made for proper alignment when re-attaching back to the diff flange. Also, if you break apart the shaft at the center support bearing, you need to matchmark that too. If you fail to do so, you can't complain about weird vibration issues that arise afterward.
.02
i get that if you take the 2 piece drive shaft appart between the universal joints and put it back together 90 or 270 deg off from its origional location the universal joints will not be lined up properly and THEN you could get a vibration. look up "timing" a drive shaft on google, also put up a little write up on how to do it if anyone is having trouble and reads this, its in the thread i have labled "auto to w58 swap sc300" search "timed driveshaft" it should come up in the advanced search searching whole thread not just titles or whatever
Last edited by skipjagger; 04-20-11 at 12:14 PM.
08-02-11, 01:10 PM
#38
Question - necessary to drain the tranny fluid before dropping it out of the car, or can you avoid it if you pitch the tranny away from the driveshaft enough? Didn't see any mention of it in the write up. I just changed my fluid recently and would rather not drain and refill it if I didn't have to.
08-02-11, 04:06 PM
#39
Question - necessary to drain the tranny fluid before dropping it out of the car, or can you avoid it if you pitch the tranny away from the driveshaft enough? Didn't see any mention of it in the write up. I just changed my fluid recently and would rather not drain and refill it if I didn't have to.
08-02-11, 10:01 PM
#40
same thing happened to me. i would just clean the whole aria where the oil comes out and drain it into a clean container and reuse it its stupid expensive :/
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
