Please help before I drive my FI SC400 into a lake and leave it for dead!
#16
I soldered all the connections. I actually had made the harness long enough to reach the driver side headlight, didn't have any problems until I un-lengthened it. I've checked the resistance of all five wires (ground,ground, MAF to ECU, IAT to ECU, and the TPS/MAF wire) and all check ok.
What is the AIC, do you mean IAC? Unplugging the IAC results in the car idling at 1200rpm.
KC
What is the AIC, do you mean IAC? Unplugging the IAC results in the car idling at 1200rpm.
KC
#17
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Sounds like tuning... My last car would be 12.5-14.5 idle and then lean out under accel. I couldn't tune it correctly myself, but I got a shop to do it just fine.
Are you able to supply enough fuel? Are the injectors maxing out? or is it any acceleration will casue it to go lean? What about timing, are you retarding it?
Are you able to supply enough fuel? Are the injectors maxing out? or is it any acceleration will casue it to go lean? What about timing, are you retarding it?
#18
Thanks for understanding. It's VERY frustrating. I have a quick as heck car at the tips of my toes, if it would just run right for more than five minutes.
I have thought that the wideband could be acting up. Anyone know of a way to test it, besides installing another unit. I'm sure it's easy enough to check the heater, but how is the sensing element, or the controller itself tested?
I'm considering calling AEM to see what they say.
KC
I have thought that the wideband could be acting up. Anyone know of a way to test it, besides installing another unit. I'm sure it's easy enough to check the heater, but how is the sensing element, or the controller itself tested?
I'm considering calling AEM to see what they say.
KC
#19
I actually have managed to tune out some of the problem. It's running pretty strong now with moderate throttle and boost. Still need to work on it some.
The thing that bugs me is that I had no problems before. I think I mentioned this at one point already, but I'll mention it again just in case. I have run without the MAFTPro before, and I was maintaining a 12.5 to 1 ratio until about 6psi.
I think I'm just going to keep working on the tune and see what happens. I have not been to a dyno yet, need to research tuners in the area. I was hoping to get my headers first.
KC
The thing that bugs me is that I had no problems before. I think I mentioned this at one point already, but I'll mention it again just in case. I have run without the MAFTPro before, and I was maintaining a 12.5 to 1 ratio until about 6psi.
I think I'm just going to keep working on the tune and see what happens. I have not been to a dyno yet, need to research tuners in the area. I was hoping to get my headers first.
KC
Sounds like tuning... My last car would be 12.5-14.5 idle and then lean out under accel. I couldn't tune it correctly myself, but I got a shop to do it just fine.
Are you able to supply enough fuel? Are the injectors maxing out? or is it any acceleration will casue it to go lean? What about timing, are you retarding it?
Are you able to supply enough fuel? Are the injectors maxing out? or is it any acceleration will casue it to go lean? What about timing, are you retarding it?
#20
You could try and swap the MAF, however my money is on the tuning. After the MAF is swapped and it's still acting funky, take it to the dyno, and dial it in. I'm betting that's where the problem will become clear.
Thanks man,
Eric
Thanks man,
Eric
#21
Would you by any stretch of the imagination know of any tuners in the Charlotte, NC area? Can't hurt to ask.
I have managed to improve the problem with a bit of tuning, but it still needs work.
You're in Orlando? I lived in Florida from birth to about 3 years ago. I may be able to make a trip, if you're up for tuning.
KC
I have managed to improve the problem with a bit of tuning, but it still needs work.
You're in Orlando? I lived in Florida from birth to about 3 years ago. I may be able to make a trip, if you're up for tuning.
KC
#23
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (-1)
As for this thread, I am glad to see that you have gotten a number of responses. I hope that this thread can get your car running right sooner than later. As always, good luck!
#24
Thanks Lex. But, that is the IAT being tested. THA = thermal air and E2 = ground. The middle terminal is the actual air flow reading to the ECU.
Somewhere on TIS it shows a way to test the MAF by reading voltage while blowing into the sensor. Even this isn't a good test though, it proves the MAF isn't dead, but there's no way to tell if it's outputting the proper frequency for any given amount of airflow.
I'm going to PM SC400TT about the MAF he has. Also, Blizzy offered to let me borrow his once he has his car in the garage on stands.
I'm going to keep working on the tune and see what happens. The nice thing about the MAFTPro is that it does not require a laptop, it has a built in screen and can be tuned on the fly.
KC
Somewhere on TIS it shows a way to test the MAF by reading voltage while blowing into the sensor. Even this isn't a good test though, it proves the MAF isn't dead, but there's no way to tell if it's outputting the proper frequency for any given amount of airflow.
I'm going to PM SC400TT about the MAF he has. Also, Blizzy offered to let me borrow his once he has his car in the garage on stands.
I'm going to keep working on the tune and see what happens. The nice thing about the MAFTPro is that it does not require a laptop, it has a built in screen and can be tuned on the fly.
KC
#25
Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to contact AEM and see what they have to say about it. It would be good to know how to check it regardless.
BTW on the Tercel. If your not sure when the t-belt was changed last (the condition of the drive belts is usually a good indication), I'd say just go ahead and change it. Also, if you're going to do it, do it after you remove the ac compressor, would make it easier.
KC
BTW on the Tercel. If your not sure when the t-belt was changed last (the condition of the drive belts is usually a good indication), I'd say just go ahead and change it. Also, if you're going to do it, do it after you remove the ac compressor, would make it easier.
KC
I was under the impression that the widebands had to be calibrated on occassion by pulling them and exposing them to open air to regroove the calibration. I could be wrong though. I am not sure of how to calibrate the AEM unit exactly.
As for this thread, I am glad to see that you have gotten a number of responses. I hope that this thread can get your car running right sooner than later. As always, good luck!
As for this thread, I am glad to see that you have gotten a number of responses. I hope that this thread can get your car running right sooner than later. As always, good luck!
#27
I really think it is a sensor, something is telling the ECM to take out fuel.
I have a few things I'm going to try / test this weekend. I also have a borrowed MAF on the way.
I'll update if I find anything out.
KC
#28
Well,
In supercharged system you have to run a bypass valve otherwise you will be forced too much air into your engine at idle. A normal supercharged setup, the BPV open during vacuum and closed during positive boost.
In supercharged system you have to run a bypass valve otherwise you will be forced too much air into your engine at idle. A normal supercharged setup, the BPV open during vacuum and closed during positive boost.
#29
Dandy... however his problem is the exact opposite. He wishes he could get more air in there at idle because he's running pig rich, and what's worse it's leaning out moderately at low boost levels.
KC the easiest way to diagnose the problem would be to strap it down on the rollers and spin it. It's a controlled enviroment for one. Secondly whether if it's a sensor, hardware, or a tuning issue, the tuner will be able to flush it out fairly quickly. Right now, it seems you're chasing your tail and it's got to be frustrating. Just schedule some dyno time, man, and get this thing sorted.
Eric
KC the easiest way to diagnose the problem would be to strap it down on the rollers and spin it. It's a controlled enviroment for one. Secondly whether if it's a sensor, hardware, or a tuning issue, the tuner will be able to flush it out fairly quickly. Right now, it seems you're chasing your tail and it's got to be frustrating. Just schedule some dyno time, man, and get this thing sorted.
Eric
#30
KC
I just had a quick read and I tend to agree with David about either a by pass or blow off valve.
Do you think you might need a rising rate fuel reg as well, would help keep more fuel in the rails when you need it under boost.
Good luck sorting it.
I just had a quick read and I tend to agree with David about either a by pass or blow off valve.
Do you think you might need a rising rate fuel reg as well, would help keep more fuel in the rails when you need it under boost.
Good luck sorting it.