motorheaddown

2jzlex,

Do you know if there's a bore size difference between the sc300 clutch master cylinder and the mkiii? If so, what is it?

I'd like to lengthen the engagement travel of my clutch, and I think a smaller(?) bore would help.

Thanks,
-scott

vipsoarer

Scott that can be done with the factory w58 clutch pedal. there is an adjustment screw on it to allow you to adjust engagement point and travel. Itd be easier to just use a sc pedal and adjust it to how you like it than to try and make it work on the mk3 pedal.

qksl2

I don't see the point of cutting up the aluminum and welding it together with an extension. When you do that, you anneal the aluminum and it wont' be as strong. We simply cut the shifter, added in some mild barstock, and TIG welded it with 309h for extra pliability and strength. It works great, as hard as you want to shift, and you don't risk heating up the aluminum. I love welding aluminum, but it just doesn't make as much sense as simply extending the shifter, in this case.

Ian

Punky

iTrader: (4)

Thank you soooooo much 2jzlex, I am currently thinking of doing a 2jzgte + r154 swap into my SC4, and this thread has been very helpful.

vipsoarer

Ian you make a good point, but remember I did the original way of extending the aluminum almost 2 years ago and was only trying to mimic the factory version since no one at the time was using this transmission in the mkiv nor the sc. It is an option for those who have some bar stock laying around, by no means is it the best but it is still an option.

2jzlex

iTrader: (3)

punky:
No problem man, keep reading as this thread has just started.

vipsoarer:
As always you provide excellent info on this subject, teaching us noobies whats what.

Sorry I haven't added much lately, I had some things come up that required some "additional funding", and am still searching for parts. Pretty sure that I have decided to go with the MKIII ACT 6 puck for the clutch setup. Stay tuned.

Jon

qksl2

Yep, and your contribution is a very good one. I just think that there is an easier way to do it, and it ends up working very well.

I remember reading your post a long time ago and being impressed, and look how many people copied you now, too!

Ian

adam8103

iTrader: (1)

Do you guys know if the mk3 flywheel instead of the 1jz will fit in the r-154 swap with 2jzgte or just 2jzge.. i have sc300 5speed with the original w58 for now i plan for the 2jzgte and r154

vipsoarer

adam8103 no the mk3 flywheel will not fit. Flywheels are motor specific for this setup while the clutches are transmission specific. Thus you need a 1jz flywheel or 2jzge flywheel that is redrilled to fit the crank (2jzge works b/c of the jz engine code) and then an mk3 supra clutch/pressure plate.

adam8103

iTrader: (1)

So i would be able to keep my flywheel and redrill it instead of finding a 1jz flywheel...

do you have to drill the 1jz one ?

What about the 2jzgte one i probably can use it either then

adam8103

iTrader: (1)

I was reading somewhere that the 5 speed transmission from jdm 2jzgte and 1jzgte are the same tranny, i dont know if it is real?

vipsoarer

adam for the ge flywheel it is a simple redrill any machine shop can do as long as you have a pattern for them to work from aka just use a crayon and do a rub trace onto paper on the bolt pattern off the crank.

you do not need to redrill a 1jz flywheel nor an mk3 flywheel

you CANNOT use a 2jzgte flywheel, it just wont work with the bellhousing/clutch.

there isn't a jdm gte 5speed only a jdm gte 6 speed (v161 and v160) and a jdm ge 5 speed which is the w58 that the usdm supra non-turbo and sc use.

ridox

1JZGTE w/ R154 = 7MGTE Clutch + 1JZGTE Flywheel + 1JZGTE Bell housing
2JZGTE w/ R154 = 7MGTE Clutch + 1JZGTE Flywheel + (may need 1JZGTE Bell housing)
2JZGTE w/ V160 = 2JZGTE Clutch + 2JZGTE Flywheel
2JZGTE w/ W58 = 2JZGE Clutch + 2JZGE Flywheel
1JZGTE w/ W58 = 2JZGE Clutch + 2JZGE Flywheel

-Do not drill any flywheel it will mess up the balance and weaken it.

vipsoarer

not to start a p*ssing war but if you redrill and rebalance you'll be in the clear. its only off a mm or two from the 1jz and its been done before with the mk3 supra guys for a while now.

CORRECTION: also i made a mistake in my last post, i meant redrill for the mk3 pressure plate. not the crank bolt pattern. i just saw that and needed to make the correction.

here is just one post to confirm it works:
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...d+1jz+flywheel

ridox

You will weaken the area near the crank bolts, because there will be so many holes. Most likely it will cause hair line cracks or even really big cracks I've seen it happen before.